What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

6.2l diesel replacement turbo ideas?

eodcoduto

eodcoduto

We could have been closer.
 Premium
Joined
Jan 4, 2011
Posts
1,550
Reaction score
1,503
Location
Muscle Shoals, AL
So I was searching the end of the internet for a used Banks 6.2l kit when I found a guy scrapping an '83 Suburban for $700 on Facebook marketplace. I don't use social media so I had a buddy hit him up and he said $100 for the anything I could pull by the upcoming Friday.

For the $100 I got a full Banks kit, from air box to exhaust tip! Hell yea that is a good deal, took three hours to pull it all off minus the fuel pump oil drain plate and the pyro gauge. It was late and I said screw it I'll buy those new and the turbo is shot so I need advise on which replacement to go with. A new Banks turbo is $1300, a Banks cartridge is $800 as long as my housings are good which I haven't checked yet, and finally an A-Team Turbo is $800.

This isn't a race car or a new diesel, my boost limit is 10lbs, EGTs of 1100F, I'm not going to do a Cummins swap so save those comments as well!

What do you all have to say about it?
 
You have the answer right in your post, the A-team turbo. Between the cost of a banks replacement and the fact that's it's a far superior piece of hardware. Both are non-wastgated but the a-team will move a greater volume of air and keep egts in a happy range.
 
That's what I am hearing from guys on the Truckstop forum, plus I talked to the owner of ATeam and he builds each turbo to order. I've seen a couple of articles on guys using HX35 Cummins turbo's but I don't have the time or garage anymore to cobble something together.
 
eodcoduto said:
That's what I am hearing from guys on the Truckstop forum, plus I talked to the owner of ATeam and he builds each turbo to order. I've seen a couple of articles on guys using HX35 Cummins turbo's but I don't have the time or garage anymore to cobble something together.
Click to expand...

It's a nice piece of hardware. Being bolt on is super nice too.
 
Its all stock CUCV engine with the exception of .030" thicker head gaskets. I have a civilian pump on it now due to the 2540 pump leaking and needing rebuilt, Oregon Fuel Injection will be rebuilding it before I put the turbo on.
 
red EOD said:
Hahaha careful we're known to have at least a few screws running loose haha.

Have you swapped out the pre-cups in the heads or still running stock naturally aspirated ones?
Click to expand...
That's a new one for me.
So if I had to do it right I would have to take the heads off and change the pre-cups?
How much of an advantage is this.
I never heard of it but it could be a good thing I have procrastinated
 
imiceman44 said:
That's a new one for me.
So if I had to do it right I would have to take the heads off and change the pre-cups?
How much of an advantage is this.
I never heard of it but it could be a good thing I have procrastinated
Click to expand...

There's a few different models of pre-cups (pre combustion chambers). Main difference is the size of the passage with the original 6.2 ones being restrictive, and later 6.5 models allowing much better flow. There's about 4-5 different versions. The original 6.2 ones are on the right.

download (1).jpg


The newer the 6.5 engine, the better model pre-cups it came with. More flow, more complete combustion, providing better efficiency and higher power. The stock 6.2 ones are the limiting factor. Have to pull the heads to swap them out though.
 
If you're trying to make lot of power from a 6.x engine. Then yes you need to change the precups. If you keep boost and fuel at moderate levels you can run stock 6.2 precups.
 
Should be able to get a cartridge for that turbo for about 300 bucks...not from banks though. All the banks kits I have had were standard t4 turbo stuff.
 
red EOD said:
The newer the 6.5 engine, the better model pre-cups it came with. More flow, more complete combustion, providing better efficiency and higher power. The stock 6.2 ones are the limiting factor. Have to pull the heads to swap them out though.
Click to expand...

I've never swapped cups. But I heard the smaller cups provided more efficient fuel burn. Something to do with the turbulence of the air. GM didn't start tweaking them until they wanted more power, so I thought it was a straightforward trade-off.

For what it's worth, I'm running a stock 1982 long block with my T04 turbine. I have no reason to think the pre-chambers have been swapped, so I expect I have the smallest variety.
 
If I ever grenade the engine I will swap the precups but it will never be a powerhouse and I just want to pull my camper a little better and get a few more MPG out of it. I'll have to see where I can find a $300 cartridge, I've run a lot of turbo diesels but I haven't had to purchase a new turbo for any of them.
 
campfire said:
I've never swapped cups. But I heard the smaller cups provided more efficient fuel burn. Something to do with the turbulence of the air. GM didn't start tweaking them until they wanted more power, so I thought it was a straightforward trade-off.

For what it's worth, I'm running a stock 1982 long block with my T04 turbine. I have no reason to think the pre-chambers have been swapped, so I expect I have the smallest variety.
Click to expand...

The small cups are more efficient with naturally aspirated but become the choke point when a turbo is added. GM started to tweak them when they added a turbo, then tweaked them a few more times after that. Stock 6.2 pre-cups limit the power to around low 300's ft/lbs of torque which is still an improvement, regardless of which exact turbo is used since the pre-cup is the choke point. Max reliable power out of a 6.2/6.5 is around 400-450ft/lbs figuring the original blocks and a few other bolt on mods.
 
I'm going to emphasize that statement reliable from my last post. Yes more has been cranked out of 6.2/6.5's with the old blocks they just don't tend to stay together for long above those levels. Good engines when built right with reasonable expectations.
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom