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6.2L fuel delivery

K5dreamer

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Question on fuel lines.

On a 1986 M1009 Blazer 6.2L diesel, is there a return line to the tank??? Im setting up a diesel purge, and it looks like there is only one line, from the tank, to the lift pump, to the fuel filter, to the IP, and any excess fuel from the injectors is cycled around and right back into the pump. and nothing back to the tank.

So if i wanted to run just concentrated cleaner through the IP and injectors, i would just hook up a single line before the lift pump, to pump the cleaner up through the filter and injectors..... or could i hook my line in after the filter, and directly into the IP?? As long as i take pains to avoid air in the line, the IP should pull enough with its vane pump to run the engine correct??
 
ok, well i figured it out. there is no return line, and i made a helluva mess getting this right, but all in all, totally worth it.

To bring all up to speed, i had found out about something called a "diesel purge" that many german owners of diesel cars do, some every 20,000 miles, others maybe only once every 120,000 miles. Idea being, you disconnect the fuel lines and attach your own lines to a jug with a concentrated diesel cleaner, so that when you crank the engine, you get strait concentrated diesel cleaner, without it being diluted by any fuel. Supposed to work wonders on how an engine runs when its got some miles on it. Well, i figure what the hell, i do it to the jetta, works great, and then i decide to do it to the truck.

those crazy german boys use a product called lubro moly Diesel purge, an article i got the idea from is listed thus.....
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=823760

I couldnt find any lubro moly handy, so i bought some stanadyne power formula from work, and looked it up, its supposed to have the same active ingrediant. sweet. Long story short.... WOW!! the truck runs better than it ever has. its quiet, smooth, revs, and pulls harder than it did at higher throttle levels. and as of yet, no more smoke on startup.

Heres where the mess kicks in. The jetta dosnt have a lift pump, so when you disconnect the lines at the filter, theres no mess. well, forgot about the lift pump on the truck. disconnected the line from the filter to the pump, and hooked up the jug of stanadyne, and cranked the engine up. B20 biodiesel EVERYWHERE!!!

So, i hooked everything back up, doused it with brake clean, and disconnected the soft line at the intake side of the lift pump. I then hooked up my line from the stanadyne jug, and cranked it. it worked great. although i used 16oz, which on the jetta lasted about 20 min, the truck sucked it down in probably 3-5. which stalled the engine because i wasnt expecting it. Next time i think ill use a larger amount so the truck can run it through longer. So, i hooked everything back up, and after a longggg time, got the truck running again. you have to be patient here, and maybe have another car handy to jumpstart your truck if the battery dies. but once you get it running again, the difference is worth the PITA. for me it was just a matter of cranking and then venting at the fuel filter, rinse and repeat until truck runs.

anyway, thought id share, because it really did make a difference, and ill probably never waist money on in tank fuel treatments again.
 
The return lines are the little hoses jumping from each injector toward the front of the engine. Those tie together and flow back down to where the hard line meets the rubber line "by the lift pump". So yes there is a return line.
 
ill take another look, but on my engine, the return lines go from each injector, towards the front, into a hardline, that joins the left and right banks by making a upside down U over the intake manifold, and then a "T" connection on the hardline is connected to a soft line that feeds right back into the top of the IP.

The only fuel lines i saw by the lift pump were the line coming from the tank, up the frame rail, which was a hardline, connected to the lift pump by a length of soft line, and then the line going from the lift pump up to the fuel filter.

although if there was a return line, it would explain why i burned through the bottle of cleaner so fast. i go poke around and see what i can find.
 
ok, well i figured it out. there is no return line, and i made a helluva mess getting this right, but all in all, totally worth it.

To bring all up to speed, i had found out about something called a "diesel purge" that many german owners of diesel cars do, some every 20,000 miles, others maybe only once every 120,000 miles. Idea being, you disconnect the fuel lines and attach your own lines to a jug with a concentrated diesel cleaner, so that when you crank the engine, you get strait concentrated diesel cleaner, without it being diluted by any fuel. Supposed to work wonders on how an engine runs when its got some miles on it. Well, i figure what the hell, i do it to the jetta, works great, and then i decide to do it to the truck.

those crazy german boys use a product called lubro moly Diesel purge, an article i got the idea from is listed thus.....
http://forums.tdiclub.com/showthread.php?p=823760

I couldnt find any lubro moly handy, so i bought some stanadyne power formula from work, and looked it up, its supposed to have the same active ingrediant. sweet. Long story short.... WOW!! the truck runs better than it ever has. its quiet, smooth, revs, and pulls harder than it did at higher throttle levels. and as of yet, no more smoke on startup.

Heres where the mess kicks in. The jetta dosnt have a lift pump, so when you disconnect the lines at the filter, theres no mess. well, forgot about the lift pump on the truck. disconnected the line from the filter to the pump, and hooked up the jug of stanadyne, and cranked the engine up. B20 biodiesel EVERYWHERE!!!

So, i hooked everything back up, doused it with brake clean, and disconnected the soft line at the intake side of the lift pump. I then hooked up my line from the stanadyne jug, and cranked it. it worked great. although i used 16oz, which on the jetta lasted about 20 min, the truck sucked it down in probably 3-5. which stalled the engine because i wasnt expecting it. Next time i think ill use a larger amount so the truck can run it through longer. So, i hooked everything back up, and after a longggg time, got the truck running again. you have to be patient here, and maybe have another car handy to jumpstart your truck if the battery dies. but once you get it running again, the difference is worth the PITA. for me it was just a matter of cranking and then venting at the fuel filter, rinse and repeat until truck runs.

anyway, thought id share, because it really did make a difference, and ill probably never waist money on in tank fuel treatments again.

You still want to use in tank treatments all the time because the fuels available now do not have enough lubricity for the IP or even the engine itself so you will kill the engine much sooner of you don't use additives all the time.
The procedure you did however is something I will be trying because even using additives a good flush from time to time is good too.
Thanks for the tip.
 
You still want to use in tank treatments all the time because the fuels available now do not have enough lubricity for the IP or even the engine itself so you will kill the engine much sooner of you don't use additives all the time.
The procedure you did however is something I will be trying because even using additives a good flush from time to time is good too.
Thanks for the tip.

I run B20 for lubricity, and tree hugger reasons ;)

however i do need to go track down the return line that has been identified by the earlier posts, using the return line would allow a longer cycle time for the concentrated treatment, and better results.
 
The return lines are the little hoses jumping from each injector toward the front of the engine. Those tie together and flow back down to where the hard line meets the rubber line "by the lift pump". So yes there is a return line.


ah HA!!! what a difference daylight makes. went out today and popped the hood, and alll the stuff i described was in place.... but then i found the little "T" next to the passenger side bank return hose, which did indeed connect to a soft line that went down by the lift pump. Thanks 85-m1028. was poking around with a flashlight last night so i missed it. Ill do the flush again, hooked up the right way, and report back with the results.
 
actually, if theres interest, ill even try to take pics, and show what all i did. This next go around ill be trying to bypass the lift pump and filter, with the fuel line to the lift pump disconnected, and the feed line from the fuel filter to the IP into the tank side of the return line, just to be sure i dont get any mess. feed the stanadyne strait into the IP, and the return line back into the gatoraid bottle ;)


or i could just link the line from the fuel filter, directly to the tank side of the return line, with the lift pump still connected and pumping, so i dont get air in the line, and have to spend 10 minutes getting the system primed again.
 
ok just a heads up, i wound up getting this done earlier today, and took pics, so ill put together a post with step by step instructions and pictures.

on that note, i did a search and couldnt find it, but can someone post a link for me on how to post pics from a computer??? only thing i could figure out was how to do it by putting pics on photobucket or something, and i dont have access to those websites from work. Ive got the pics on my computer though.

Short version, the new way i did it works WAYYYYY better. Although i didnt have a chance to drive the truck around and see if there was further improvement in drive quality, ill be doing that when i get home tonight. Thing sounded MEAN on just the PS diesel Kleen, reved like a dragster. Oh yeah of note is that i used the stanadyne power formula last time. This time around i ran Power Service Diesel Kleen through it, and it definatly seemead to like it. I also added roughly 300ml of the diesel kleen to the tank. which is a little more than needed to treat 27 gallons. (948ml est, for 100 gal). I am adding about 200ml to the jetta when i fill up today, and the rest (450ml est) was used for the diesel purge. I switched to the PS diesel Kleen because it is also a highly recomneded product in the VW TDI forum, with many members using it, and its also fully compatable with biodiesel, and ive got B20 in the tank for both the CUCV and the Jetta. The stanadyne was only approved up to a B5 blend.
 
Until you pcik up a membership here you won't be able to upload any pic's as attachments. You'll have to upload to a hositng site like photobucket and remote link the pics here.

Rene
 
easy enough fix, becoming a paying member has been a long time in coming for me anyway. bout time i ponied up the cash for all the advice ive gotten on this forum :bow:.

now lets see if i cant get these pictures posted.
 
Ok, so here we go.

picture.php


These are the parts youll need.... plus a bottle of some sort. I used an empty gatorade bottle. Something that holds 500-750ml should do well. Starting in the upper left we have the Power Service Diesel Kleen additive, below that are a pair of pliers (handy for spring clips, and for getting off stubbern rubber hoses), a screwdriver for installing and removing hose clamps, and three lengths of 5/16in fuel line (the low pressure carb stuff is just fine, and about 1/8th the cost of the line for fuel injected setups). Hind sight being what it is, i would reccomend two lengths of about 28-30in, and then one length of 30 in, with a lawn mower fuel filter installed somewhere in the middle. I also made use of two double male 5/16th in fuel line adaptors.

picture.php


This is the additive i used to do the diesel purge. Available at my local Advance Auto Parts, was around $7.50

picture.php


Youll need to locate the fuel return line, shown here being pointed to by a screwdriver. My truck had a pinch clip, needing a pair of pliers to remove. all other hoses had hose clamps.

picture.php


Next locate the fuel line that goes from the fuel filter to the IP (Injection Pump), it is the lower of the two soft line connections on the right hand side of the fuel pump. The line that exits off the left side is the vent drain, for venting air from the fuel system at the filter by using the screw cap on the top (see next picture).

picture.php


The air vent is the black round cap, with the X cast into it near the upper left hand corner of the filter. Unscrew to release air from the system, screw in to seal system back up. DONT unscrew all the way, its not necessary.

Now, the first step is to disconnect the line from the filter to the IP. set aside the IP side of the line, and connect a 30in section of fuel line to the nipple on the filter. This line will go down to the return line to the tank.

picture.php


The hose going across the top of the pic, and then turning down is the 30in line from the fuel filter output. It connects to the soft return line to the tank via a double male fuel line adaptor. You can see the difference between the new black fuel line, and the old gray one, that has the snap clip on it. The screwdriver is pointing to a second 30in fuel line, connected to the now open end of the hard return line.

Congratulations, youre halfway there. You have now made a close loop system that is pumping the fuel from the tank, up the frame, to the lift pump, up to the filter, and then back down to the return line to the fuel tank. This allows you to perform this service, without getting the entire fuel system full of air, and greatly aids you in restarting the engine afterwords. It also avoids making the mess i made before by leaving the fuel filter output open and having the lift pump connected.

Onto the other side of the system....

picture.php


youll now have a closed system on the lift pump and fuel filter. And a hose with an open end coming from the hard return line from the injectors and IP.

picture.php


now install the fuel line that has the fuel filter in it. You will use the second double male fuel line adaptor here to connect this line to the soft line that leads to the IP. Youll note that this line also has an open end.

picture.php


Take the two open ends of hose, and stick them in your bottle of additive. It is critical that the line with the filter is submerged, the return line does not have to be.

picture.php


At this point you should have two closed loop fuel systems, looking like this on the passenger side of the engine bay. Loop 1 - is the fuel tank, frame line, lift pump, fuel filter, and soft return line. Loop 2 is the gatorade bottle, fuel line, IP, Injectors, hard Return line, fuel line.

to Recap....

picture.php


The line being pointed to with the screwdriver, comes out of the gatorade bottle filled with additive, and is connected to the soft fuel line pulled off of the fuel filter, which leads under the intake manifold to the IP.

picture.php


This line is connected to the output of the hard return line behind the alternator, and empties back into the gatorade bottle.

picture.php


and THIS line connects the ouput of the fuel filter to the soft return line via a double male fuel line adaptor.

picture.php


when you see this, while the engine is running, and there is no fuel being sprayed anywhere else, youll know you got it right.

NOTE - in these pictures, sharp eyed wrench spinners will note a lack of hose clamps.... youll want to remedy that for your application. Use a hose clamp on EVERY fitting in this process, otherwise youll get leaks and a mess.

NOTE - you may want to attempt to "prime" the additive fuel lines, mostly by filling the lawn mower in-line filter, otherwise it will take some time, and quite a bit of engine cranking to pull the additive out of the gatorade bottle and up the fuel line to the IP. But be patient, it will happen. Cranking time is negligable once you finish the service and hook the regular fuel lines back up again.
 
well, took the truck for a drive tonight after work, and yes, there is a dramatic difference. Its no drag car, as it is very acceleration limited with 3.08 gears and 33in tires, but once its on a roll, "passing" acceleration from 35-45 was actually surprising, and kinda scared me. The truck sounds awesome, almost like a gas V8 without headers, and overall has better manners, better throttle response, smoother running, quieter, and all that. And a very non-scientific test, i took it out and attempted to power brake and spin the rear tires. Well, no change in 2wd, still wouldnt budge em even though its been raining and the pavement is wet, but whereas before, the truck couldnt even spin the tires in 4lo (front hubs unlocked), tonight it would break them loose with ease. so there is definatly more power than there was before.

All in all, I highly recommend this service for all the 6.2L/6.5L owners on the forum.
 
Nice job and welcome to the supporters :D
And use an electrical fuel pump to prime.
It will save your starter :deal:
And use a spin on filter instead of the standard GM one it will save you lots of trouble if not now it will in the future.
 
Yeah, the model 80 is prone to cracking and leaking slightly...

Still good info. Thread has been copied and stickied in the diesel forum.

Rene
 

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