What's new
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

6.2L: head gasket, coolant leak?

Drain your coolant first, disconnect your batteries second. Then off with the intake.

Grab a chunk of cardboard and punch a bunch of holes in it similar to the pattern of holes on the intake. Drop each one you remove into the corresponding hole in the cardboard and you won't have to scratch your head later.

Once your intake is off the lines are next.

Rene
 
DieselWarrior said:
Already a quick question...

Should I fully remove each fuel hard line, or just disconnect at the head?

Andrew
Click to expand...
I undo them at the injector, then start undoing them at the IP. They come out in pairs due to the isolator clamps. It's actually pretty self evident as you're doing it. I separated each pair later and hit em with a coat of machine gray rust paint. Looks better and hopefully keeps em from rusting. They're bent very specifically, but it's still a good idea to label them as they come out. Do not bend them, you will hate yourself for it later.

Rene
 
So far, it looks like the gaskets Ill need:

1 intake gasket
1 valve cover gasket
1 head gasket
1 exhaust manifold gasket

Its early yet, but for reference... Do I use any Blue RTV on any of the gaskets listed? I think the head gasket is designed to be alone with nothing else added.


The cardboard trick is gonna be key to getting things right again, thanks for the suggestion.


Andrew
 
I'd use a skim of RTV on the coolant crossover tube gaskets. Also on one side of the valve cover gaskets. I like to RTV the gasket to the cover, let it cure a little and then install. Intake goes on dry, as do the head gaskets. Now is a good time for a 'J' code manifold. The only reason I mention it is that the intake gaskets for a 'J' code are different. They have a block off portion where the 'C' code gaskets are open to allow exhaust in to the EGR.

If you do the ARP studs (and you should) you'll need to chase the head bolt threads first, clean, vacuum, wipe out the cylinders. Drop the head gaskets on over the dowels in the block. Drop the heads on top and then install the studs through the head. If you stud the block you will not be able to drop the heads over the studs (unless it's on an engine stand).

As mentioned a water pump is also highly recommended during this job. It'll never get easier to replace...and it's good peace of mind.

Rene
 
You must log in or register to reply here.

Latest Posts

Top Bottom