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6.2L vin's: C or J

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fbronson

1/2 ton status
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Jan 12, 2004
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Location
Denver, CO
Here's a trivia question for the sages of the diesel page: Do I have a C or J 6.2L and How do I find out? What is the difference anyhow?
Next question: I need to replace my fuel injection pump :frown1: and I am curious where the best place to get a pump is. And secondly, I discovered that there are both low and high altitude pumps available. My Blazer originally came from Maine, but now lives in Denver. Should I put a high altitude pump into it, or stick with the original equiment (I am assuming it originally came with the low altitude pump)?
Thanks for the help!:thumb:

Fred
 
is it the original engine for the truck? if so will be a j in the vin #. also I'm from Maine!!! :waytogo: dunno why that's so exciting... oh yeah I have no life :grin:
 
No, the engine currently in the truck is a rebuilt unit that was put in it about 75 to 80,000 miles ago.:thinking: So I am not entirely sure what the engine originally came out of. If memory serves me correctly (ha ha, like that'll every happen! :laugh: ) the engine was originally out of an early 90's vehicle. I have no idea what difference that would make. But do you know where to find that VIN? Should be on the block somewhere, right?:dunno:
 
If your engine has a ERG valve on the intake it is a C code.If it has no ERG it is a J code.
As far as your IP pump I would call Timatwww.accuratediesel.com.He rebuilt mine and is very helpful.I haven't heard of high and low altitude pumps,but I'm sure he can rebuild your pump for your specific application.
 
I think there is also a J stamped on the block on the driver's side towards the rear. Maybe merely coincidence but I noticed my J code had one.
 
I'll take a look to see if I can figure out whether it is a C or J code today. Thanks for the info!:thumb: So you actually had somebody rebuild your pump? How much did it cost you, if you don't mind me asking? I am not too thrilled about the idea of spending close to $400 for a rebuilt pump from NAPA or Auto Zone. :mad:
 
hmmm...let me do some digging...there is a guy in MN that does them for 200 and will build them to whatever spec you want...guessing fuel pressure..friend just had one done this summer
 
fbronson said:
I'll take a look to see if I can figure out whether it is a C or J code today. Thanks for the info!:thumb: So you actually had somebody rebuild your pump? How much did it cost you, if you don't mind me asking? I am not too thrilled about the idea of spending close to $400 for a rebuilt pump from NAPA or Auto Zone. :mad:
Click to expand...

I sent my junk to Tim at Accuratediesel.com...got 8 injectors rebuilt as well as the injector pump. Total cost shipped to my door was $347 US.

Well worth it, and great customer service.

Rene
 
There is a guy in Rochester MN that does good work...Rochester fuel injection 507-288-8038 hes worked on my Mack pump and it did good for a reasonable price
George
 
fbronson said:
No, the engine currently in the truck is a rebuilt unit that was put in it about 75 to 80,000 miles ago.:thinking: So I am not entirely sure what the engine originally came out of. If memory serves me correctly (ha ha, like that'll every happen! :laugh: ) the engine was originally out of an early 90's vehicle. I have no idea what difference that would make. But do you know where to find that VIN? Should be on the block somewhere, right?:dunno:
Click to expand...

J code has J in the VIN as well as the engine code.
ALso if your engine came out of a 90's, it very possible it's the one you can bore to 6.5l

:D
 
So I poked around the engine compartment, and I think I have a J code engine. I can't find the EGR valve on the intake, but maybe I just don't know what I am looking for. I also checked on the drivers side of the block, just above the fuel filter, and it looked like it had a "J20" stamped on it. I am not 100% sure on this one though. Where would I look to find the actual vin stamped on the engine? The VIN on the tag up by the drivers side of the windshield has a C in it.
 
since the engine was not the original the VIN won't tell you anything. I believe that you have a j code as I did and I had that j stamped abouve the filter on the driver's side rear of the block in the same location.
 
fbronson said:
So I poked around the engine compartment, and I think I have a J code engine. I can't find the EGR valve on the intake, but maybe I just don't know what I am looking for. I also checked on the drivers side of the block, just above the fuel filter, and it looked like it had a "J20" stamped on it. I am not 100% sure on this one though. Where would I look to find the actual vin stamped on the engine? The VIN on the tag up by the drivers side of the windshield has a C in it.
Click to expand...

Did you take the air cleaner off and look?
That is where the EGR is.
 
So the EGR sits right in the middle of the intake? yeah, there is a goofy little thing at the center of the airfilter. Once the airfilter cover is removed you can see it right there. I guess I would really like to know where the VIN is stamped on the block. This would tell me for sure whether it is a J or C code, right? One thing that I am still curious about, however, is what is the difference between the two? I have heard that the J code engines have slightly larger valves. Is this true? When I go to autozone, are there any parts that I should be aware of that are different between the two?
 
It's a C code. EGR and a lower fuel calibration on the pump. Maybe some internal engine differences, but I do not know.
 
Thanks for all the info guys. :thumb: Well, my injection pump is on its way to Tim at Accurate Diesel. Hopefully it will be in much better shape when it comes back! I decided to take the oportunity to do a full rebuild :doah: . So my engine has now been stripped down to the block! Yeah, I'm a little crazy! I've taken some decent photos along the way (to help me remember how is all supposed to fit back together!), and I'd be happy to do a write up if anyone is interested:dunno: . The intake manifold on it is definitely a C code, as it includes the EGR valve. However, it wasn't hooked up to anything, so it is obviously useless. Man, those heads weigh a ton!
 
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