Forgot about that. Isnt it just a visual smog? Still would kill my dreams of a big turbo and straight pipes
CK5
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6.5l diesel questions. Tow rig time
- Thread starter NorCal_Chris
- Start date
Forgot about that. Isnt it just a visual smog? Still would kill my dreams of a big turbo and straight pipes
He didn't then this is pre d max.
Just in case no one knew only diesel trucks have the 2 air inlets in the bumper. If they aren't there bumper has been replaced
LIVEAnimals
1/2 ton status
Forgot about that. Isnt it just a visual smog? Still would kill my dreams of a big turbo and straight pipes
I think there is a smoke test too so big turbo big injectors no passy
The 6.5L is very much like the 6.2L. It is a light duty diesel. It is not overly powerful, but it gets great mileage and does not slow down a whole lot when loaded down.
Yes, they can start to run warm but any engine will when you overload the truck (which most people do when towing). Heck, I managed to overheat my old 07 LBZ Duramax just towing my Tahoe on a 20ft gooseneck.
There are a few things to consider when owing a 6.5L diesel truck:
1. You MUST run fuel additive to keep your injection pump alive. The only additive I would recommend is the Standyne stuff. It adds essential lubricity to the diesel to prevent excessive wear caused by the ultra slow sulphur diesel (ULSD) sold at the pumps. The sulphur was the agent that added the lubricity to the diesel.
2. You need to keep a close eye on the harmonic balancer. Lots of folks complain that the 6.5L engines break cranks a lot. This is almost always attributed to a failed balancer. If your balancer is missing chunks of the rubber ring between the two halves, is cracked, swollen etc it needs to be replaced immediately.
3. The injectors are only good for about 100k with ULSD before the nozzles begin to fail.
4. The optical sensor in the injection pump is quite sensitive to colored fuel. The engine will drop into limp mode if it looses count on the high resolution wheel due to the optical sensor being unable to see the tone wheel due to the diesel being colored.
5. You need to make sure that the vacuum pump is up to snuff. The wastegate on the turbo needs 20inHG of vacuum to seal shut. And less and you'll be wasting boost. My old 6.5L in the Tahoe had this problem. Every once in a while the vacuum pump would drop out and I'd lose all my boost. The black smoke was pretty impressive to look at but I sure lost a lot of power haha
6. The PMD is a common failure item but not the only failure item. Don't automatically assume it is bad if the engine is misbehaving. Do some troubleshooting before you drop the cash on a new one. Heat is what kills these things. If you want it to stay alive then install a relocation kit with a big heat sink.
If you are going to buy a 6.5L diesel truck, make sure you check the glow plugs. The engine is totally depenant on them working properly to cold start. They are not super expensive (12 bucks each for a Delco 60G) and make a world of difference for starting. The other key to a successful start is starting RPM. If your batteries are getting weak, or if the starter is becoming worn out then you should replace them to make sure the engine turns over as fast as it can.
Yes, these engines are notorious for cracking in the mains and between the valves on the heads, but it is not that often that it actually causes a failure. I have never seen or heard of anyone suffering a bottom end failure due to cracked mains. Nor have I seen many people suffer problems with cracked heads. I would not worry about either until it becomes a problem.
The 6.5L is a simple engine. It is reliable if you take care of it. It will get you great mileage and will also pull quite decently well as long as you don't expect it to pull like a modern diesel. Give yourself lots of time to get up to speed and it'll get you there. The Chevy trucks are comfortable and most are loaded with lots of creature comforts. I like the Dodge engines, but the trucks they are wrapped in are inferior to the Chevy stuff. Fords I don't have a lot of experience with, but they seem to work pretty decently as well.
And yes, my Tahoe hauled Horton with the 6.5L / 4l80e a couple hundred miles at 75mph without any trouble
I was leaving a first gen Cummins behind in my black smoke (when the turbo dropped out) on some of the hills. But I also have 5.13 gears. That helps some haha
Yes, they can start to run warm but any engine will when you overload the truck (which most people do when towing). Heck, I managed to overheat my old 07 LBZ Duramax just towing my Tahoe on a 20ft gooseneck.
There are a few things to consider when owing a 6.5L diesel truck:
1. You MUST run fuel additive to keep your injection pump alive. The only additive I would recommend is the Standyne stuff. It adds essential lubricity to the diesel to prevent excessive wear caused by the ultra slow sulphur diesel (ULSD) sold at the pumps. The sulphur was the agent that added the lubricity to the diesel.
2. You need to keep a close eye on the harmonic balancer. Lots of folks complain that the 6.5L engines break cranks a lot. This is almost always attributed to a failed balancer. If your balancer is missing chunks of the rubber ring between the two halves, is cracked, swollen etc it needs to be replaced immediately.
3. The injectors are only good for about 100k with ULSD before the nozzles begin to fail.
4. The optical sensor in the injection pump is quite sensitive to colored fuel. The engine will drop into limp mode if it looses count on the high resolution wheel due to the optical sensor being unable to see the tone wheel due to the diesel being colored.
5. You need to make sure that the vacuum pump is up to snuff. The wastegate on the turbo needs 20inHG of vacuum to seal shut. And less and you'll be wasting boost. My old 6.5L in the Tahoe had this problem. Every once in a while the vacuum pump would drop out and I'd lose all my boost. The black smoke was pretty impressive to look at but I sure lost a lot of power haha
6. The PMD is a common failure item but not the only failure item. Don't automatically assume it is bad if the engine is misbehaving. Do some troubleshooting before you drop the cash on a new one. Heat is what kills these things. If you want it to stay alive then install a relocation kit with a big heat sink.
If you are going to buy a 6.5L diesel truck, make sure you check the glow plugs. The engine is totally depenant on them working properly to cold start. They are not super expensive (12 bucks each for a Delco 60G) and make a world of difference for starting. The other key to a successful start is starting RPM. If your batteries are getting weak, or if the starter is becoming worn out then you should replace them to make sure the engine turns over as fast as it can.
Yes, these engines are notorious for cracking in the mains and between the valves on the heads, but it is not that often that it actually causes a failure. I have never seen or heard of anyone suffering a bottom end failure due to cracked mains. Nor have I seen many people suffer problems with cracked heads. I would not worry about either until it becomes a problem.
The 6.5L is a simple engine. It is reliable if you take care of it. It will get you great mileage and will also pull quite decently well as long as you don't expect it to pull like a modern diesel. Give yourself lots of time to get up to speed and it'll get you there. The Chevy trucks are comfortable and most are loaded with lots of creature comforts. I like the Dodge engines, but the trucks they are wrapped in are inferior to the Chevy stuff. Fords I don't have a lot of experience with, but they seem to work pretty decently as well.
And yes, my Tahoe hauled Horton with the 6.5L / 4l80e a couple hundred miles at 75mph without any trouble
I was leaving a first gen Cummins behind in my black smoke (when the turbo dropped out) on some of the hills. But I also have 5.13 gears. That helps some haha
1st choice Dodge/Cummins bar none,
but if that is not an option due to cab config, then a 95-97 Ford Powerstroke is the direction to turn to.
I'm sure the 6.5 can do a decent job, but at the end of the day it's still a light duty engine at best that has trouble being reliable, getting the fuel mileage, getting the miles out of them, and especially getting the HP/Torque out of them if your a power junky like me.
With the 7.3PSD, you are getting an engine that is tough. Once you realize how gutless it basically is with stock settings, you'll drop in a TS style 6 position chip and get another 50HP out of it and be happy. It will outpull any 6.5, get better mileage, and the block will last 400,000 miles towing all the time or not, all while making 275HP or better.
I am very happy with my '97 7.3. It doesn't have the low end balls of my Cummins trucks, but it runs good for being in a truck that weighs 14K with no trailer, and has 263K in it.
My '01 and '06 Cummins trucks are animals, but I'd take a 7.3 right behind them over anything else out there in a heartbeat.
Oh, and the Ford OBS trucks are good trucks. I personally don't see any gains with a 90's GM truck vs. the OBS Ford.
but if that is not an option due to cab config, then a 95-97 Ford Powerstroke is the direction to turn to.
I'm sure the 6.5 can do a decent job, but at the end of the day it's still a light duty engine at best that has trouble being reliable, getting the fuel mileage, getting the miles out of them, and especially getting the HP/Torque out of them if your a power junky like me.
With the 7.3PSD, you are getting an engine that is tough. Once you realize how gutless it basically is with stock settings, you'll drop in a TS style 6 position chip and get another 50HP out of it and be happy. It will outpull any 6.5, get better mileage, and the block will last 400,000 miles towing all the time or not, all while making 275HP or better.
I am very happy with my '97 7.3. It doesn't have the low end balls of my Cummins trucks, but it runs good for being in a truck that weighs 14K with no trailer, and has 263K in it.
My '01 and '06 Cummins trucks are animals, but I'd take a 7.3 right behind them over anything else out there in a heartbeat.
Oh, and the Ford OBS trucks are good trucks. I personally don't see any gains with a 90's GM truck vs. the OBS Ford.
DEMON44
Low-Tech Redneck
Myth. Today's modern diesel fuel is dryer than old fashion diesel.
Not true.
Sulpher was in fact what made lubricity in high Sulpher fuel. Ulsd has replacement additives to maintain lubricity. It just uses different chemicals to do it.
Jet fuel and kerosene are similar fuel oils to diesel with out the lubricity. They are very dry fuels.
Not true.
Sulpher was in fact what made lubricity in high Sulpher fuel. Ulsd has replacement additives to maintain lubricity. It just uses different chemicals to do it.
Jet fuel and kerosene are similar fuel oils to diesel with out the lubricity. They are very dry fuels.
454Sub
5/8 ton status
On that same note though doesn't the lack of Sulfur cause shrinkage of fuel line seals and such that can cause leaks on older model diesels?
Personally, I think the 6.5 has its place in the tow world. And that is if you dont have the money to afford a Cummins or a 7.3 Ford. I think both the 6.2/6.5 are complete junk, and will not buy a vehicle regardless if it comes with one. But they can be made into a decent towing engine that can pull just fine and will be reliable if taken care of. Which is the same thing as any other diesel, new or old, regardless of make and model. There is no denying the fact that any newer diesel will stomp all over any worked over 6.? all day every day and do it while being more reliable, better mileage, and more power. But when you factor in the cost all that the 6.?s have their strongest argument.
I have seen several Duramax swaps into square bodies, which I am fond of because its much less common than the Cummins, and it keeps it GM sort of.
Personally, I think the 6.5 has its place in the tow world. And that is if you dont have the money to afford a Cummins or a 7.3 Ford. I think both the 6.2/6.5 are complete junk, and will not buy a vehicle regardless if it comes with one. But they can be made into a decent towing engine that can pull just fine and will be reliable if taken care of. Which is the same thing as any other diesel, new or old, regardless of make and model. There is no denying the fact that any newer diesel will stomp all over any worked over 6.? all day every day and do it while being more reliable, better mileage, and more power. But when you factor in the cost all that the 6.?s have their strongest argument.
I have seen several Duramax swaps into square bodies, which I am fond of because its much less common than the Cummins, and it keeps it GM sort of.
The only time I would ever buy a 6.5 is if I wanted a Suburban and diesel power combined. You can't tow anything heavy with a Burb, so a 6.5 would probably be good for that type of thing. But if that is what I wanted I'd go with an Excursion instead anyway.
It's just tough to beat the price point of the OBS Fords. I don't think a mid to late 90's GM truck with a 6.5 is a whole lot cheaper.
It's just tough to beat the price point of the OBS Fords. I don't think a mid to late 90's GM truck with a 6.5 is a whole lot cheaper.
My Brother in law has a bunch of 6.5s one runs but needs glow plugs it`s a 98, one is smashed up in the shop, it`s a 93 and runs good. The rest are in the row of death out behind the barn.
He has had all the 6.5 problems that can nickel and dime you to the point of giving up. Head gaskets,lift pumps,glow plugs.
They are fricken noisy and I think they are not the greatest tow rig. "Under powered"
They are nice to drive around if they start good. Good on fuel. But like Russell said they need to be kept care of.
I think 95 and older are the best ones. But I would much rather have a Cummins.
I like my Duramax a lot but they are hard to find for cheap unless they have a ton of miles and worn out.
He has had all the 6.5 problems that can nickel and dime you to the point of giving up. Head gaskets,lift pumps,glow plugs.
They are fricken noisy and I think they are not the greatest tow rig. "Under powered"
They are nice to drive around if they start good. Good on fuel. But like Russell said they need to be kept care of.
I think 95 and older are the best ones. But I would much rather have a Cummins.
I like my Duramax a lot but they are hard to find for cheap unless they have a ton of miles and worn out.
