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6.5L dual alternator pics?

eodcoduto

We could have been closer.
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I'm picking up a dual alternator setup from a '97 6.5l on Friday and does anyone have a picture of this setup on an engine? The parts I am grabbing are off the engine so I want to make sure I'm getting what I need.
 
My m1009 had dual alternators.
I have removed the drives side alt when i converted to 12 volt.
But there was a period of time i ran it with both alternators in parallel.
I found that one alternatot would do all the charging and the other sat idle unless a large load was put on the system.
The voltage regulators in 27si alternators have a specific voltage "turn on" point.
That point is different for each regulator.
So cruising down the road, the alternator whose voltage "turn on" point is lowest, does all the charging.
The other alt just spins.
Now i recently went through a spate of glow plug failures.
So i eliminated the spare alternator.
My theory is; the glow plugs were receiving 14.8 volts during the after glow phase because the voltage drop from pulling 100 amps was enough to trigger both alternators to charge.
Instead of 13.8 volts with one alt, i got 14.8 with both alts.
I found this on another forum;
"rampyJim 12:52 AM 01-12-2006
It has nothing to do with redundancy but everything to do with output. The second alternator is not waiting around for the primary alternator to fail.
The SuperDuty is built, primarily, as a "work" truck and may be subject to higher than normal electrical loads. Part of the reaoning behind the dual alternator configuration is for glow plug protection. Depending on the temperature, the glow plugs will remain "on" for some time after the wait to start lamp goes out.... The secondary alternator will not come "on line" until after the glow plugs have finished heating to avoid high system voltages that could lead to early glow plug failure."

I have no idea if any of that is correct.
In the process of testing glow plugs with only one alternator now.

Of course, i could run one battery and alt as a starter and amother bat and alt as a house.


Just something to think about.

Anyhow, i am running cucv V belt pulleys so i don't have the pictures you need.
You probably want serpentine.
 
Did you talk to @AgDieseler yet? He has some pictures in his thread.

I did talk to him, and I ended up buying a new build transmission today instead of the brackets. Its my fathers day present for the next four years. I have a CUCV dual alternator setup that I will put on one of these days. Since I took my A/C off I need to get another belt on the PS pump, no matter how tight I get it, there is always a little squeal in the mornings.
 
I did talk to him, and I ended up buying a new build transmission today instead of the brackets. Its my fathers day present for the next four years. I have a CUCV dual alternator setup that I will put on one of these days. Since I took my A/C off I need to get another belt on the PS pump, no matter how tight I get it, there is always a little squeal in the mornings.
Ahh.
You got V belts on that beast.
Me too.
Nah, man
Even with the Cucv setup and 2 belts driving that bitch, PS pump will squeal at full lock.
Tensioning that belt is really difficult.
There is a lug on some of them, underneath, that you can fit a 1/2 drive into.
Not my M1009 though.. damn pulley in the way.
I put a big screw driver from above and made sure to pry on anything but the PS pump itself.
Not fun.
But you will also never get it perfect in all situations.
Cross a mudhole or river and I bet that sombitch squeals even if you have it "bust the bearings" tight.
 
Ahh.
You got V belts on that beast.
Me too.
Nah, man
Even with the Cucv setup and 2 belts driving that bitch, PS pump will squeal at full lock.
Tensioning that belt is really difficult.
There is a lug on some of them, underneath, that you can fit a 1/2 drive into.
Not my M1009 though.. damn pulley in the way.
I put a big screw driver from above and made sure to pry on anything but the PS pump itself.
Not fun.
But you will also never get it perfect in all situations.
Cross a mudhole or river and I bet that sombitch squeals even if you have it "bust the bearings" tight.

I wouldn't call it great, but it's not THAT bad... :rolleyes:

The only squeal I've gotten from my M1009 was about 30 seconds after I was winched out of a water hole. I've never been so glad to hear belt squeal. I had thought it chucked out the belt while submerged.
 
Yea its a two person job, with a small crowbar. When I get the motivation I am going to make an adjuster for it, just a threaded bolt and nut so I can tighten it with a 15mm socket.
This.
Exactly my thoughts.
If there were a market..
I'd manufacture and sell them.
Unfortunately just a few of us crazy hangers on.
Just love the sweet burble of the 6.2 while in low range.
Yea, someday it'll get a 350 crate or someshit.
Right now, i am following the Zen advice of my memory lost Dad.
He said; "Leave well enough alone".
What is crazy about that statement?
Popeye the cartoon character said the same thing.
"I knows me stuff and I'm smart enough.. to leave well enough alone".
Good one Dad.
 
I hate dual alternators. Half of our super duties at work run them. Just more crap in the way and more to fail. In my opinion just run a bigger single alternator and be done with it unless you are building a stereo competition truck. A guy I knew when I lived in Moab had a 5.9 gasser dodge with like 3 or 4 alternators on it and a bank of batteries under the back seat. Not this pic but similar.
upload_2018-6-14_9-3-59.jpeg
 
That's a good point. Like dual engine air planes, everyone thinks it's much safer, but really just makes it more likely you'll have a failure, catastrophic or otherwise, and much more expensive on annuals etc.

But anyway, at least to my way of thinking, it's not just about capacity but more so redundancy. If it is night time and you are 30 miles of unimproved dirt road from the closest nominally paved road, another 70 to the nearest parts store, and that's when the alternator goes out (for me, NEVER in the driveway), you many not be able to run the Metallica concert stage or your bat signal off road lights, but (isolated/disconnected bad one, hopefully not locked up) it should keep your starting battery(ies) hot and lights on until/while you drive out or until it's convenient to fix/replace. Of course there is another alternative that doesn't depend on the dead one still spinning and such, just carry a spare.
 
The only reason I was going with dual alts is thats what was available in a serpentine setup around here. I waved off on that setup because it didn’t look correct and I am am still looking for a serpentine setup. I don’t “need” duals, but If I run across a set thats a good deal I might snag it up. Mostly just looking to get rid of V belts.
 
I still have dual alternators on my m1009 even though i converted it to 12 volt.

Originally the passenger alt charged the front battery and fed power to the driverside alt through an isolated ground.
Made 30 volts to charge both batteries in series.

I converted to 12 volt.
But when I removed the second alternator, i noticed my power steering pump squealed in tight turns and off road situations.
Just couldn't get that single v belt tight enough.
So i put the second alternator back in but left the wires off.
It is basically an idler pulley to give my P/S pump a second belt.

I played around with connecting both alts but found that only one of them does the charging.
The voltage regulator with the lowest setpoint kicks on first and the other remains inactive.

Now if I were to add a third battery, as a house battery, i could get the second alternator to be useful.

But since I have 2 huge truck batteries in parallel already, a third has no real use.

I did rebuild both 27si 100 amp alternators and eliminated their isolated grounds.
So they have brand new bearings and brushes, regulators, resistors etc.
But one is simply an idler.
Wires not hooked up.

Incidentally, i found out the alternator I picked to be my main after conversion had a defective regulator that put out 15 volts.
After rebuild it is between 13.8 and 13.2 depending on how long after startup.

I suppose I could have removed the brushes from my idler alternator.

But if i ever need it, i can just hook up the wires.
 
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