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6.5L turbo diesel questions

RootBreaker

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Ok so I still cant get through inspection... emissions..

so I am hunting down the qjet stocker as im told the qjet runs lean on the idle circuit which is what i need.. so im $300-$500 in.
my alternatives is a 5.3L or 6L swap which will run around $2k....

other alternative is to do a diesel swap. I see a 6.5L turbo diesel on CL for $800. Another guy has one for sale saying he is doing a diesel to gas swap and has a 6.5L turbo motor with 40k miles on it for sale. Since he is doing a swap I txt him asking him if he still has it and if he wants to do any trades... so more to come but

my question...
1. what other than motor is needed to do a diesel swap?
2. 6.5L turbo... will truck seem so dead and not move?
 
6.5TD isn't a slouch in the power department..190hp but 400+ tq

Question on the 6.5...what year is it? if it's 93 or older then it's really easy swap wise. One wire to make it run. 94 and newer are computer controlled and have some issues with the pump mounted driver on the injection pump. Too hot a location, so it doesn't live long...

Where I lived in BC even the diesel's had to pass emissions, and getting my 6.2 to pass was a PITA. I eventually learned enough about the 6.2 and the testing procedure to figure a work around that got me through easily every year. A throttle stop preventing anything over 60% of WOT. I never used more than that driving it (not much more power past that point anyways) and it eliminated tailpipe smoke (opacity)
 
If it's a gas truck VIN, won't it have to meet the gas emissions requirements even if you swap a diesel engine in?
 
If it's a gas truck VIN, won't it have to meet the gas emissions requirements even if you swap a diesel engine in?

No cuz i would have the motor added to my vin.

Yesterday when i got my registration renewed lady was like... is this a boat? I said no a truck... she said i had the vin wrong. I laughed and said..... No I am one of the few that has a legal truck.

I had my 82 2wd diesel cab... 1991 caprice roller cam motor added to my 78 vin. So i have my vin plate and above it my new vin which is something like...

NJxxxC

That is it... NJ...3 numbers.... C....


Hah... so id do the same w a diesel.
 
The 6.5L is a nice engine. It costs a little more to maintain than a gas jobber, and is more difficult to start in the cold, but they get great fuel economy and will move your truck around just fine.

If you run a newer EFI diesel you'll need to add the PCM inside the cab. The ECM is the same size as a TBI version so it can be mounted up behind the glove box. There will be some significant wiring to be done, such as an under-hood fuse & relay block. The electronic 6.5L engines run electric transmissions (4l60e and 4l80e) so you'd want to get the transmission with it. They are mostly the same as gas engines but run a separate torque converter. The ECM will need a 40 tooth tone ring in the transfer case for speed input, which means you'll need to swap an electric speedometer from a 90/91 square body into your truck.

Mechanically its pretty much a bolt in. The turbo will hit your AC box if so equipped and dumps the exhaust directly into the frame rail. I ran my exhaust outside of the frame as there was very little room inside the frame for it. 6.5L engine run very hot, you need to install the big diesel radiator or you'll have over-heating problems. 6.2L rads are the same as the 6.5L stuff. They also have an oil cooler in addition to the power steering and transmission coolers.

You can use a TBI in-tank fuel pump as a lift pump for the diesel. Stock they have a frame mounted pump. Make sure you get as much gas out of the tank as you can. They'll still run with a considerable amount of gas in the fuel but will have issues starting.

Make sure you check the harmonic balancer on the engine when you buy it. If it's swollen, missing pieces or otherwise damaged pass on the engine. When the balancer goes bad then the engine will break the crank shortly afterwards. Keep a close eye on it. Don't worry about cracks in the mains. Pretty much every 6.2 and 6.5L I've dealt with has them. I've never seen or heard of an engine failure attributed to cracked mains.

Make sure you run stanadyne fuel additive. The injection pumps are designed for diesel with sulphur in it. Sulphur adds lubricity to the fuel. The ultra low sulphur diesel we have today will kill the injection pump much, much faster than before. Additive restores that lubricity and keeps them alive as designed.

As mentioned by Rene, you'll want to re-locate the pump drive module. It's on the side of the injection pump stock and they tend to get killed by heat soak. They are supposed to be cooled by the fuel behind the mounting surface but when the fuel stops moving after the engine is shut down they get warmed right up. I mounted mine inside the cab to my seat frame when I ran a 6.5L in the Tahoe. I had no trouble with it there. Most folks mount them to the bumper or something but since I take my truck offroad I was concerned about constantly dunking it in muck and stuff so I put it inside the cab instead.
 
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