6.5TD Problems

[pseudomike]

Ok guys, i picked up a 1997 K2500 (94k miles) with a 6.5TD in it from a friend for a good price. The truck will start and run but sounded like it was skipping and was sending enough raw fuel and white smoke out the back to clear skeeters in a 10 mile radius. So....after doing a little research I decided it was probably a bad injector so i replaced all 8 with some Bosch units. Fired the truck back up, MUCH less smoke....but still missing and running rough.....and once it gets warm it has a knock resembling a wrist pin or valve train problem that gets worse with engine speed. Now the kicker, if I shut the truck off once it's warm it won't start until it cools off.

So I did some more research which led me to check the balancer and the flex plate...systems check here so i am scratching my head and wondering if I should just locate another motor.

I am guessing the not starting once warm is a worn IP. Is it possible that the IP will cause all this racket? It is loud, coming from DS. Also, some other observations....warm it has maybe 35 pounds of oil pressure, the breather has a steady stream of white smoke etc. which to me indicates blow by, the intake side of the turbo has raw fuel in it but I think it may be coming from the breather. The turbo itself is good.

I have a good low mileage 6.2 in the garage....can I simply swap all the 6.5 stuff onto it and be on my way? Will there be a noticeable loss of power.

Thanks,

mike

 

[pseudomike]

Wow nobody wants to touch this one.

 

[tRustyK5]

White smoke indicates coolant...or likely a head gasket that's gone. This won't help it run better.

Hot start problems with the electronicaly controlled 6.5 sounds like you have a PMD problem which is very common. 35 psi warm is decent, but doesn't guarantee there aren't other problems. I'd consider doing a compression check at the least.

Rene

 

[pseudomike]

Rene:

Thanks for the response. It was blowing white smoke but I am fairly sure it was unburned fuel like a bad cylinder or injector. Anyhow, I actually ripped the heads off today and found the problem. Unfortunately it's either a wrist pin or journal bearing. There is about 1/4" of up and down play in the #4 cylinder. I haven't dropped the pan to determine which it is but given the oil pressure I'm betting on wrist pin. The motor is actually really clean otherwise so it might be worth fixing? Has to come out either way so.... I have a line on a good used 6.5 with low mileage, new seals, and a rebuilt turbo for $800 so I might just go that road.

Ow well it happens.

 

[tRustyK5]

I'd prolly jump on the 6.5 for $800 and swap the good stuff from your motor to that one. Sorry to hear it was a problem like that...

FWIW your good 6.2 would work too.

Rene