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6 holes instead of 4 on my ORD steering arm?

GsxrMike

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Why are there so many holes on my steering arm? Which one of the two do I use on the right for my draglink? The one closer to the knuckle or the one farther from the knuckle? I would guess the one farther away would be for a tie rod but i'm using the stock tie rod location (or is this wrong?) Do I run the tie rod from the old steering arm to the new one? Why is there 4 holes for the arm to bolt to the knuckle when my knuckle only uses three? Thanks guys! BTW: The instuctions that came with it are for D60 high steer!
Steering_arm.jpg
 
the outer most is for the drag link, the inner (closest to knuckle) is for the tierod. the 4th tapered hole is for aftermarket knuckles w/ 4 studs.
 
OK sweet! So is the high steer any better or is it just for clearence? Seems weird the hole for the tie rod would be milled at an angle. Does ORD sell the drivers side steering arm?
 
these steering arms are for a d44 right? if you go with high steer you need flat top knuckles or i believe ord can mill the tops flat for you. for the money the the dedenbear knuckles look like a great buy. who are your steering arms made by?
 
these steering arms are for a d44 right? if you go with high steer you need flat top knuckles or i believe ord can mill the tops flat for you. for the money the the dedenbear knuckles look like a great buy. who are your steering arms made by?

That is a crossover/highsteer arm, you need flat top knuckles for either.
 
Yeah I have the flat top knuckle and the passenger side steering arm from ORD. Does ORD sell a drivers side steering arm for the high steer or what? I don't think I need high steer but if all I need is a steering arm and a tie rod I might do it down the road. PROS CONS?
 
I know WFO has the other side arm, along with other places.

I'm running highsteer on my 10b (same as a D44), but haven't done anything crazy with it yet. However, many folks say that highsteer on a 10b/D44 will just break things, knuckles and studs specifically.

So, cons are greater chance for damage, plus it can be a royal PITA to fit the tie rod in above the springs, as it has to have room to move fore and aft so the arch of your springs comes into play.

Pros are that the tie rod is up out of the way and less prone to being bent on rocks and such.

If you've already got your tierod, I wouldn't do highsteer -- the tierod length will change, as it's a bit shorter from highsteerm arm to arm than knuckle to knuckle.

-- A
 
the high steer arm moves the tie rod up on top of the axle opposed to it being in the center. if your going rock crawling you should do the high steer but otherwise it probably isn't worth it. BTF makes an arm with high steer and crossover i believe for a d44. ORD just makes the high steer and crossover arm for a d60 im pretty sure.
 
I will just stick with what I have then because I don't even know what rock crawling is. Closest thing we have to rock crawling in Kansas (at least around here) is gravel roads.
 
I will just stick with what I have then because I don't even know what rock crawling is. Closest thing we have to rock crawling in Kansas (at least around here) is gravel roads.

LOL ... yeah, if you don't need crazy high ground clearance for the tie rod, don't screw with it.

-- A
 

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