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6 lug and 8 lug

M

mollyman

1/2 ton status
Joined
Aug 18, 2006
Posts
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Location
west virginia
Can anyone tell me if it would matter (other than the wheels) if I had a 6 LUG 10 blt in the front and a 8 LUG 14 blt in the rear. I don't want to change the 6LUG to 8LUG because someday I want a D60, I just need to know if it will mess anything up as far as function of my sub to have the 2 different lug patterns???? Also my sub has a stock 12blt in the back can I just put in the 14blt, or do I need to change anything (ie spring perches, shock mounts, spring hangers, etc....)???? THANKS
 
You'll be carrying 2 spares... :doah: :wink1:

3/4 ton 14bff will bolt right up.. 1 ton perchs would need to be moved..... iirc you'll need a conversion u-joint...
 
This will show you my inexperience. What's a conversion u-joint? Do you mean the u-joint in the end of my driveshaft? By the way I've got a np208 with a slipyoke. (wish somebody made a kit to get rid of it)!!!!

Thanks for the info!
 
mollyman said:
This will show you my inexperience. What's a conversion u-joint? Do you mean the u-joint in the end of my driveshaft? By the way I've got a np208 with a slipyoke. (wish somebody made a kit to get rid of it)!!!!

Thanks for the info!
Click to expand...

correct... Think its a 1310/1350 conversion, but don't hold me to that.. Someone will be along with the right #'s on that if you need... Yoke is different on the 14b...

And yup, I have a slip 208... Gotta fixed 205 sitting in the garage going in at some point...
 
Can I just get the different size u-joint? Will it fit in my stock driveshaft?? Or does the conversion part of it mean that the u-joint has 2 diferent size ends, so that 2 fit the yoke and 2 fit the driveshalt?
 
mollyman said:
Or does the conversion part of it mean that the u-joint has 2 diferent size ends, so that 2 fit the yoke and 2 fit the driveshalt?
Click to expand...


correct
 
ryoken said:
correct... Think its a 1310/1350 conversion, but don't hold me to that.. Someone will be along with the right #'s on that if you need... Yoke is different on the 14b
Click to expand...

That is correct. The Napa part number is 348.;)
 
haha, good guess.... :o :wink1: considering I haven't done it...
 
Check out offroaddesign.com 's burly burb write up in the project vehicle section of their website, It will give you a good idea of what needs to be done
 
my geuss is you are running 15" wheels right now. You will need to buy 2, 8 lug 15" wheels if you plan on keeping all your tires. When you do go to a 60 then you can either get 2 more 8 lug rims and grind your calipers. or buy 4 16, 16.5, or 17" rims and all new tires. The parts needed to swap a 10 bolt to 8 lug are easy to come by. I have 2 sets laying in my garage from axles I have parted out.
 
i can't believe no1 said anything about gear ratios...they have to match also or be pretty dang close like 4.10 and 4.11 if not your frontend will try and turn a different speed than your rearend ,i just assume that you maybe didn't know that since you never heard of a conversion u joint.
 
Yeah I was going to run 4.56 front and back because the 14blt I'm buying already has the 4.56 gears in it and I was just going to install the 4.56 in the front to match. That would work rite??
 
what happened to the front diff that went with the 14 bolt. swapping U-bolts is easier then setting up gears.
 
I'm buying a new 10blt for the front and a new 14blt to replace the stock 12blt in the rear. I don't even know what the gears the guy has in the 10blt are but I know the 14blt has 4.56 gears. So I am going to bolt them both up with the new conversion u-joint in the back and the front is just a straight swap out because the stock is a 10blt. Once they are in I can drive it (in 2wd) to a shop and have 4.56 gears put in the front to match the rear. Then I am good to go RITE???? Other than I will have a different lug pattern 6 in front 8 in back.
 
Because the current 10blt is junk and needs to much work (that I can't do yet) so I'm just going to replace it.
 
In order to regear the axle the shop is going to need to pull everything except the knuckles. It's not that much extra effort to rebuild things like balljoints or u-joints in the axleshafts. You won't need to unhook brakelines, which means you won't have to bleed the brakes. No U-bolts to buy or cut off and replace. At least with the axle you have you know/think its junk. the one you are buying could be worse. maybe its bent. was the truck in an accident? why are the axles being pulled and sold? Most of the ones in my area are scrapped because the body rots away.
 
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