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6" with 40's

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Florida K5

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I have decided that I am going to put a 6" with 40's on my 1987 k5, I just like the look of it. I am curious has to how much trimming will I need? Should I just trim a little at a time until I get the clearance I need. I saw a post on here with the blazer that had this set up however I cannot post attachment for whatever reason??
 
I have between 6 and 7" of lift and run 42s. I have the axle moved forward a few inchs and have trimmed fenders and need to cut more. Is your axle in the stock location? Even if it is moved forward and inch, You will need to do some cutting. Good luck.
 
Everything is stock at the moment I am putting 1 tons underneath it but just was curious of how much to trim.
 
I lot! This is wi th a few inches cut. I need to cut more. This happened on 38s, which is what's on there now.





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My 39.5s have 4" ord hd lift +1" 0 rate and 1" of body and the front it moved forward 1.5" I don't have much trimming at all. In fact mine is only close on the side that doesn't have a top to prevent reverse flexing of the front springs (which we all know is bad).
 
Im runnin 38s on about 8" of lift, front axle ahead 1.5", cut out flares. Have no rub at all and could prob get away w/o the gey body lift.

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Buddy o mines runnin about 6 or 7" with 40s and some minor trimming, guess he still needs to trim the back of the fenders some more(rubs when flexxed pretty good)

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I run 39.5 x 18.5 Boggers with a 9in lift and the f250 mounts with 36in long shocks, i had to trim mine both front and back pretty good. On the tops i cut it on the original flare mark and tapered the door sides to within 4in of the end of the fender, on the front bumper side i cut it to the bottom of the radiator support. I still have a lil rub when i tuck the tires at full left or right steer. Im going to make my own 1/2in tall lift blocks to shim the axle forward an inch or so, I know ORD sells 1in versions of them but Iv heard that can interfere with crossover with a 1in, so im going to try the 1/2in and hope for the best, and I want to see if i can do it and i enjoy the fab work sometimes. Plus it will help with my driveshaft angles anyways.
 
454Sub said:
I run 39.5 x 18.5 Boggers with a 9in lift and the f250 mounts with 36in long shocks, i had to trim mine both front and back pretty good. On the tops i cut it on the original flare mark and tapered the door sides to within 4in of the end of the fender, on the front bumper side i cut it to the bottom of the radiator support. I still have a lil rub when i tuck the tires at full left or right steer. Im going to make my own 1/2in tall lift blocks to shim the axle forward an inch or so, I know ORD sells 1in versions of them but Iv heard that can interfere with crossover with a 1in, so im going to try the 1/2in and hope for the best, and I want to see if i can do it and i enjoy the fab work sometimes. Plus it will help with my driveshaft angles anyways.
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Another buddy of mine had the same clearance problem, so he removed the zero rates and re drilled the spring perches. No more clearance issues now :waytogo:
 
Jesus that's brilliance. Haha. Never even crossed my mind. Now do you have to drill out the top plate the same amount? I'm assuming so as the ubolts will be moved now.
 
This is around 5-6" and 40x16 LTB's. My front is moved forward about 2" and my uptravel is bump stopped to about 2" of uptravel. The only I place I rub is under the core support if I am turned hard and have the tire stuffed against the bump stop.

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454Sub said:
Jesus that's brilliance. Haha. Never even crossed my mind. Now do you have to drill out the top plate the same amount? I'm assuming so as the ubolts will be moved now.
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Yes you would have to redrill the u bolt plate(thats how I did mine), but he put em diy spring plates on.
 
I cut mine exactly like that black blazer, but up higher on the old flare, had to shave down the sidemarker light which was no big deal. I had to give up the fenderwells though. I have no use for them anyways, makes it much easier to change the plugs and it makes no difference to me if the BB gets wet or muddy, it washes off. Man with 2in of uptravel, it must have massive down travel. Mine has 6in of up and 7in of down. I dont rockcrawl though, only rocks in IL are driveway rocks. For a Burb on 40s though, mine stretches out pretty well in the limited trails we have, plus I have access to old coal mine property that is private now, lots of climbing and washouts, but its soft powder instead of rocks, so we dont get rock rash, but black coal slime marks instead. So my bare steel unpainted body, while rusty kinda, has no dents or gouges.... :woot:
 
Quite a bit of trimming there.. I am wondering if I should consider 8" and maybe less of a tire. I have seen 8 with 36's that looked really good.
 
Rim offset and width play a big part in the amount of trimming required.
 
nvrenuf said:
Rim offset and width play a big part in the amount of trimming required.
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X2... I had 19.5/44 boggers with 7 in lift. So I know you can fit them with 6 inches. Be prepared to cut a large amount and relocate your axle if your gonna flex it out. If your gonna mud it you might be ok. Just my 2 cents...

Jeff
 
4" Tuff Country springs in front and no swaybar, shackle flip in rear with 39.5" TSL's. Light rubbing on the front in certain conditions and it's off-roaded heavily. Planning on redrilling the front spring pads to move the axle forward a bit.

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971
 
This is 6 inches and 40s (4" susp. and 2" body). A good bit of trimming is needed but you can still make it look decent if you take your time.
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Now its got 5" of lift with 40s. Took it down to a 1" body lift and moving the front axle forward via zero-rate. I love the low lift, big tire look.
 
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