63" on suburban

[mnstrburbon]

Any body set up a set on a suburban i have seen plenty on k5 and trucksbut not aon a sub or am i missing a thread. i am thinking of running them and would like the axle to go back so i can get more up travel and not get into the door. They are supost to move the axle 6 inches to the rear sound's good and should clear nice. Then i will only need to stretch the wheel opening rear ward sort of making it loke like a tahoe.there should be enough room to move the tank to clear and so forth.
Only problem is with running 56 in front and haveing the axle moved forward my wheel base is going to be crazy long.

 

[dremu]

You have the option of moving either or both ends' hanger, so you can put the axle more or less wherever you want. You'll want to do some serious mocking-up before you drill or weld anything, though, 'cuz the frame isn't straight and level back there, so moving the spring hangers laterally could potentially change your pinion angle. (You could offset this to some degree by moving the hangers up or down on the frame, and of course by using shorter/longer shackles in the back.)

The Burb wheelbase is actually pretty short; it's 129.5", two inches shorter than the longbed, even though it's about six inches longer overall than the pickup.

You would have some cutting to do. And IIRC there's the factory spare tire well just back of the driver's side wheel.

Huh ... how much longer is your wheelbase with the 56" up front? I think I did mine just like the tech article, so I gained 4" with the 52"s ... same thing, depends on how you did the spring hangers.

-- A

 

[mnstrburbon]

Its stock for now .
i have all the mounts for the 56 swap trying to decide on the rear and the height.
I have factory rear 56 now so i can swap them to the front and then i was thinking get a set of 63 by theroy. I should end up with about a 5 inch lift with the 6 inch shackles. the cheepiest route.

I want it a little higher i think i have a 6 front know and a 4 block rear and it sits nice.
So maybe a 2 inch lifted spring all the way around 56 front 63 rear and ill be at 6 all the way around some what close to what it is now.

Moving the rear axle back is a plus cutting wheel wells is hapening how much is yet to be seen and the spare tire well is already gone.
i want to mock it all up and do it once so i could have the drive shafts made.
wheel base should sweel im guessing 8 to 10 inches total 6 rear 2-4 front
it should aslo iliminate alot of rear overhang and dramatically improve aproach and departure angles

back to og question am i going to be the first on this one or does some one have pics.....

 

[dleroy43]

My 56s are backwards in the rear and I still hit my shackles sometimes. I think it would be worse with 63s. I play in rocks and have no back end so my experiance my differ from yours

 

[mnstrburbon]

Thanks for the info it sould be the same on a truck with 63 correct on hitting the shackles have not herd many complaints about that.
Are you running a 4 or 2.5 shackle flip

 

[dleroy43]

its an ecobit flip which I belive to be 5"

 

[mnstrburbon]

cool thanks dleroy43 i searched some of you're post and found one pic from the side but if ya have a better one that would be good so far it looks good i might swap mine tomorrow im already at max with the stock drive shaft so if i flip them im going to run out of shaft. did you have longer drive shaft made and did you go one piece or two and would shaft frome a 4 door long bed work?
I also checked the frame today and it has got a nice flat section about 8 to 10 inches after the rear hanger to relocate for the 63 swap.
Im guessing now one has done it since there are no replies on that yet?
here is that pic do you have one before you cut it guess it dont matter much since mine is cut looks awsome nice build
dleroy43

And mine

 

[dremu]

The driveshaft from a crewcab will be two-piece and is fricken hooge... their wheelbase is 164.5", for instance, so I think you'd end up having to shorten that shaft.

In any event, I think you're gonna need to get a new shaft, or at least get your existing one retubed (they cut the yokes off yours and weld them onto a new tube of the correct length. It's cheaper than a new shaft, as long as your yokes are in good shape and they have the right size U-joints etc etc.)

-- A

 

[mnstrburbon]

im thinking its cheaper to get a 4 door shortened than re tubed i will have to call and check thanks.