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64" spring question

Magikal

Magikal

1/2 ton status
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Nov 25, 2007
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Location
North Idaho
thinking of putting 64's under the rear of my k5 blazer. currently have 4" of lift and am running 35x14.5x15 swampers on a corporate 14bolt rear end. I have heard of this being done without moving the front hangar froward at all and only relocating the rear hangar. This would move the axle centerline rearward quite a bit which would result in having to trim the crap out of the fender. In essence though, this decreases the distance from axle centerline to rear of truck, allowing me to drop off things without hitting the rear bumper as easy or hitting when going through deep holes, etc. In addition it increases the vehicles center of gravity length becoming more stable, etc.

My question is: has anyone done this modification in this manner? If so, can u post/send some pics? Also, what pitfalls am i missing or should i consider/be aware of when doing this??

Thanks in advance for all the input!!
 
You would have to relocate or seriously modify the fuel tank if you move the axle back that far.
 
That's what I did on my rig, it only moved the rear back about 5" you just use the rear bolt holes as your new fronts. Fenders don't need to be trimmed even with my 37s. I'm running a diy4x flip with 6" shackles. Il take some pictures but I'm running a flat bed on this one. I have done it before with a blazer and it works fine. No fender or fuel tank issues. You will need longer parking brake lines and driveline
 
Why bother with all the tank relocating or modification. Just move the front hanger too and keep the stock wheel well in tact. It's a lot less work. This has been done a bunch and there're lot's of threads on this subject. Do a quick search for 63" and 64" spring swaps. I've posted many pics in my threads about it. Good luck
 
not so easy to move front hangars forward as the body mint interferes with it. I like the idea of moving the axle centerline towards the rear as it allows the as end too clear stuff easier. I am constantly scraping my bumper/ hitch on stuff.
 
73redblaze, did you leave the front hangars where they are stock? any pics would be helpful.
not so much of the hangars but more of a side shot off the vehicle stance after the mod. thanx
 
Yea I didn't touch the front hangers in this one. But on my other 2 blazers I did and I just staggered the hanger between the body mount. Il snap some pics tonight but like I said I'm running a flatbed
 
I did this same exact thing to my 89 k5 blazer. Now keep in mind I am running a pickup truck cab and a flatbed so I can't comment about sheetmetal mods. I left the front hanger alone and flipped my ORD shackle flip side to side (so that it angles to the rear) then moved it back so that the front bolt holes went through the frame where the old rear bolt holes went (does that make any sense?)

The frame has a little bump in the bottom that needs to be cut/modified before you can bolt the bracket up. If you have a hitch, you will probably have to modify it I would imagine.



I also used the longest shackles that DIY4X makes, 7" I think.



Keep in mind, that above pic just had a 2 leaf + overload spring pack. After the pic was taken, I added 1 more leaf as well as a 1" zero-rate since after I swapped the 52" springs up front, the front sat a little high before I even added a flatbed to the truck.

The gas tank has never been moved. I even have the gas tank skid plate on there too. Once I swapped the 14bff in the back, I also put on a DIY4X Backbone axle truss and razorback diff cover. After several wheeling trips, I can only see a small mark where something may have rubbed the gas tank skid plate. I think it might have been the back edge of the brakeline block (where the two rear lines connect to the flex line)

Here's some pics after the truss and cover were put on.







Just recently, I removed the overload leaves from the front and rear springs to lower the truck a little. Since there is some room between the gas tank and the skid, I will hammer that area of the skid a little to give more axle clearance.
 
Also, I don't think the stock shock mounts will work anymore so will have to do something about that (I inboarded my shocks) and the bump stops won't line up correctly. Obviously, you will have to have the rear driveshaft modified
 
I am also wanting to do this. I want a longer wheel base for better stability on steep climbs and better departure angle. More pictures would be very helpful.
 
thanx for the pics. it makes total sense. Did you get longer shocks because of the increased articulation? any issues with axle wrap?
 
I think the shocks I got are longer. I broke one on the last trip and just recently swapped in a pair of Rancho remote reservoir adjustable shocks that were a little shorter. Since they are inboarded, I gained a lot of travel that way. I did get axle wrap and now have a traction bar
 
when you inboarded your shocks, where do the tops mount? a custom crossmember? pics would be great!!
 
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