Nope its still oniwaxmyjimmy said:did u take the factory skid plate already off?
Nope its still oniwaxmyjimmy said:did u take the factory skid plate already off?
Yeah I definitly think im gonna leave the axle where it is and I dont plan on jumping the truck at all. I know what you mean about keeping weight in the rear. When I wheeled it last september before I swapped out the springs, a couple times when I was going downhill around a corner and I was lifting a tiregmc4cw said:looking good. if you get zero rates I would leave the axle centered. How much more wheelbase do you really need.
as for it hitting the tank, are you going to be jumping the truck? if not then the axle centersection doesn't move that much. when you are flexing one side goes up and one down. the centersection pretty much stays put.
I would keep the tank where it is, or move it up inthe frame slightly. you need weight behind the axle for going down hills. last thing you want to do is stand it on its nose.
. I am also putting the DIY razorback cover on my 14bff along with the backbone truss and wraptor. muddermilitia said:Yep, I believe they came off a 98 or 2000 era chevy 1/2 ton 4X4 and I flipped the ORD hangers from side to side(so they angled back) and I moved the hangers farther back
No they weren't, I just moved the rears so I now have 5.5" more wheelbaseoll' bessy said:were the front hangers moved?
Sure, I will try and get some tomarrowiwaxmyjimmy said:Can you take some pictures of the rear axle locations from the top of the frame??

Yeah Im pretty sure you could keep the factory bumper. If I still had my bumper and brackets I would see if they still bolted up, but I tossed those out a long time ago.iwaxmyjimmy said:Thanks man I appreciate that. Do you think, with the shackles brackets moved that far back, you could keep your factory rear bumper?