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64" springs. How is this done? Lift amount? Etc.

shady

shady

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The rear springs on my shorty build are shot. To the point that I'm more inclined to just buy new or good JY ones. But I also want 4" of lift and better ride if possible. So I had some questions.

Do stock 64"s add any lift, like the 52"s do up front?

Is it as simple as just moving the mounts forward/back?

I've tried the search function but have really never had much luck with it.

I plan on a short box conversion on it, probably next summer. And I already know I'll have to move the gas tank for 64"s.
I want to do a blazer/burb tank when i do the bed conversion anyway.
I have a plan to get my 56"s together enough to work, by taking a few packs and making a pair. That'll get me by till the bed conversion.

So right now I'm just in an info gathering phase.

If you know of a thread detailing this conversion already then links would be sweet lol.
 
@Stephen told me to move the hanger forward by moving the last hole of the hanger to previous first hole in the frame. This is on a suburban. I still haven’t done it because plans changed, but now thinking about it again.

I also believe that he said that with my 3” springs, 4” flip, and heavy ass would be around 6” of lift.
 
Ok.. so pretty much no lift in them.. that's one question answered ...

And moving the bracket that little is enough to get them in there? Or is that both brackets front and back?

Stock 64"s would be cheaper. But if I could find a set of lift springs for a good price when I'm ready I may go that route.
 
:thinking:

Short bed conversion may be a little rough with that lol
 
I'm running 64s on my K5. 5" lift tuff country new/used I got for a good deal. Moved both hangers out and kept the stock shackle configuration with a 6" shackle to utilize the extra swing with the springs. Also have a 1.5" block. It sits close to a 4" lifted truck with some ass high take which is what I like. My front has 4" springs.
 
If doing the shortbed and 64"s then can't use saddle tanks, will have to switch it over to a tank between the frame rails. I moved just the front mounts and reused the lower hole.

20190320_141935.jpg
 
Ok, fark it. I’m going to get my tuff country 64’s installed.

@red EOD it looks like you moved the hangers but left the crossmemeber. Is that right? Also, what did you do for the e-brake bracket?
 
I have 63" on the Limo. With the suburban frame you literally just knock the rivets out. Move the front hanger forward a d bolt the rear most hole of the hanger to the forward most hole of the frame. Drill the remaining 3 holes or weld on. Position the rear hanger for your desired result. Shackle length depends on hanger position, lift, drop, compression, so on a d so forth. I have 6" shackle IIRC on a hanger flip, No blocks, stock 1/2 ton 63" and clear 37" Toyo.
 
Thanks @natemc

So you left the crossmember that reinforced the hangers in place and didn’t move it forward?
 
When I installed 64" springs in my K30, I moved both the front spring hangers and the crossmember forward.
(And the shackle hangers backwards of course)

One drawback with 64" springs is that it can hurt your departure angle...
But it flexes like crazy :D
 
79 K5 Blazer frame, 87 R10 cab, 2004ish new 2500HD springs, nothing in factory location except gas tank crossmembers:
RightRear_02_S.jpg
 
Quite the shock angle you have going there. Effective ratio has to be about nothing. Not trying to be a jerk, just commenting.

Regarding the crossmember, did you guys cut every single rivet or keep it together? Also not sure how I’m going to get to the upper inside rivets to cut them and then getting a drill in there to redrill the top ones. Unfortunately my exhaust is welded front to back and this would be easier without that in the way. Maybe this is the time that I remedy that issue.
 
Abusfullofnuns said:
Regarding the crossmember, did you guys cut every single rivet or keep it together? Also not sure how I’m going to get to the upper inside rivets to cut them and then getting a drill in there to redrill the top ones. Unfortunately my exhaust is welded front to back and this would be easier without that in the way. Maybe this is the time that I remedy that issue.
Click to expand...
Drilling new holes in the frame can be a pita even if you have the bed/body off (at least on a K30 frame).
So if I had a Burb or Blazer and had to take the entire body of, I wouldn't have bothered with moving the crossmember...

Btw the frame was higher where I moved the crossmember (5" forward iirc), so I had to shim it somewhat for a good fit.
 
The factory mounts work fine even with the wider springs .....? I figured they do, but forgot to ask about that part
 
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