Hmm, what do I have here? I’m totally green on these axles.
CK5
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68 is coming along nicely
- Thread starter bradshawtech
- Start date
Look like you originally had the gm ho72 with the oem no spin. Potentially had a bearing failure and the gmc dana 60 rear was swapped in. Or you have paperwork from a different truck!
Ok, anything else needed to be changed when making that axle change, shock mounts, drive shaft length, brake line routing? All that looks original to me except the soft brake line down to the top of the axle, I figured it was different because of the flat bed they put on it. I will pull the covers and check to see what’s inside and verify ratios too.
I believe them to be a direct interchange.
I need help ciphering the VIN of this truck, is it by chance a cab and chassis or was it a standard long bed truck?
I set the used bed on the frame today and the front two bed to frame bolts miss the frame by 2+” too wide. The two rear bed to frame bolts lined up what seems to be perfect except the bed is too far forward in my opinion. I know the cab mounts are sagging so I’m not too worried about the gap between the bed and cab. I didn’t see the donor truck so I’m not sure if there’s some bracket that the front of the bed mounts to but there isn’t a hole in the top of the frame at the front factory holes in the bed like the rear most holes in the bed, they do drop down directly into a hole in the frame In the rear most position.
On the sticker in the glovebox it says “custom c&c equip”, does that mean this truck is a cab and chassis? Would the frame be different than a standard truck with a factory bed?
If this truck was originally a c&c, I’ll change up the flat bed that was on it and keep it as I bought the truck.
I set the used bed on the frame today and the front two bed to frame bolts miss the frame by 2+” too wide. The two rear bed to frame bolts lined up what seems to be perfect except the bed is too far forward in my opinion. I know the cab mounts are sagging so I’m not too worried about the gap between the bed and cab. I didn’t see the donor truck so I’m not sure if there’s some bracket that the front of the bed mounts to but there isn’t a hole in the top of the frame at the front factory holes in the bed like the rear most holes in the bed, they do drop down directly into a hole in the frame In the rear most position.
On the sticker in the glovebox it says “custom c&c equip”, does that mean this truck is a cab and chassis? Would the frame be different than a standard truck with a factory bed?
If this truck was originally a c&c, I’ll change up the flat bed that was on it and keep it as I bought the truck.
On the VIN sticker it also says “pick-up box floor”, does that notate it being a standard bed but notes it being wood or steel bed?
I am thinking longbeds were 127" with a cab to centerline of axle of 57"?
C&C is Custom Cab which included the chrome uprights by vent windows and usually chrome inserts on front and back glass. I have pics in my build thread I think of the 2nd set of front mounts on bed being aprox 2' outside of frame. I'll see if I can find them. Also floor bed is probably optional steel or wood bed, don't remember which was standard. Probably wood.
C&C is Custom Cab which included the chrome uprights by vent windows and usually chrome inserts on front and back glass. I have pics in my build thread I think of the 2nd set of front mounts on bed being aprox 2' outside of frame. I'll see if I can find them. Also floor bed is probably optional steel or wood bed, don't remember which was standard. Probably wood.
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I went out and grabbed a pic on this beautiful day. It's hard to tell but bed bolt is aprox 2"outside of frame rail. Mine is a shorty but would figure long beds would be the same. Pay no attention to square tube, the mount you would need will be much smaller/shorter.
I just went back and looked at these pics. If I remember correctly the first mounts from cab back would line up with frame and go to upside down u shaped brackets you are missing. 2nd set would be the ones that are 2" outboard of frame.
Gentlemen, thanks for the help. Sigh of relief to see the square tubing, CaptRon. This bed sits low in comparison to the cab which is sagging. I thought I had a freak here. I can fab up the mounts just like you did.
when you get a chance, could you let me know what dimension square tube you used, looks like 2 1/2-3” to me by the pic.
when you get a chance, could you let me know what dimension square tube you used, looks like 2 1/2-3” to me by the pic.
I tried to look at mounting bracket details on LMC and Brothers and neither one shows anything at all... lots of bolt options and cross ribs but I didn’t see any frame bracket details.
Slow your roll cowboy, mine is a 69 cloned to a 67 on an 88 1 ton {8" versus 6" frame}. The square tube I used was because of custom mounts and a 1" body lift I had to do to get this Johnny Cash truck together. Your mounts could very well be a completely different size. I would get the rear mounts snug, make sure the wheel is as centered as much as possible in the opening while still having clearance between bed and cab, and with the bed level and blocked in front and then measure for both your front and second from front mount.
Oops... guess I assumed everyone else had that one project just like mine. I know better. yup, I’ll do just that and get it bolted up accordingly.
@Capt Ron is correct about the upside down U or channel brackets. They probably got removed for the flatbed, as you suspected. My C10 has them in line with the frame, at the back of the cab, so I am not sure about your width issue. The 2nd set of bolts from the cab are outside of the frame.
And these trucks tuck the bed very close to the cab. Mine has about 5/8" between the front panel's top edge and the back of the cab. I have seen several 2wd trucks where the front upper bedside bolts have dented the back of the cab, so you are correct that the front needs to come up as indicated by the style line. If the cab mounts are tired as well, then the front of the bed us really low.
These are pictures from my '72 C10, which is a longbed and lowered a little, so perfect pictures aren't quite possible from underneath tonight. The side shot hopefully shows how much the bed wraps around and conceals the gap.
And these trucks tuck the bed very close to the cab. Mine has about 5/8" between the front panel's top edge and the back of the cab. I have seen several 2wd trucks where the front upper bedside bolts have dented the back of the cab, so you are correct that the front needs to come up as indicated by the style line. If the cab mounts are tired as well, then the front of the bed us really low.
These are pictures from my '72 C10, which is a longbed and lowered a little, so perfect pictures aren't quite possible from underneath tonight. The side shot hopefully shows how much the bed wraps around and conceals the gap.
I thought longbeds might be a bit different. There are some supports in between the first set of bolts and the second set of bolts. I would support the bed on every bed crossmember like the factory did.
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Thanks for the pics, clears it up well. I’m sure that in my haste I referred to the front set being wider than the frame, now that I think about it the very front bolts do line up with the frame but they hacked the holes in the bed to get the bolts out when they removed it from the donor truck.
This bed is rough in areas but is a place to start, $200.00 with a pretty decent tailgate.
This bed is rough in areas but is a place to start, $200.00 with a pretty decent tailgate.
19Tim69
1/2 ton status
I dream of the days of yesteryear when I had a workspace that clean & clear...I usually spend a few minutes moving stuff out of the way to get something done...You got a great deal with all the surprises you found so far.
Did that truck come with a 250 6 cylinder? I’ve had a few and usually have those gears in them.
You can spray a 4 to 1 mix of vinegar on that patina on the frame let it sit overnight then rinse with water & it will be ready to paint when dried.
Did that truck come with a 250 6 cylinder? I’ve had a few and usually have those gears in them.
You can spray a 4 to 1 mix of vinegar on that patina on the frame let it sit overnight then rinse with water & it will be ready to paint when dried.
It has the original 327. The garage at the house is pretty organized, can’t do major fabrication there but the shop at my work has all I’ll ever need for that.
19Tim69
1/2 ton status
Ru? Rho...what have you been up to? Lol
