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69-72 Rock slider tech request

bp71k5

bp71k5

3/4 ton status
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Mar 31, 2006
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Knoxville, TN 37922
I'll start this out by saying I don't want rock sliders on my k5. I think they tend to ruin the look of this generation truck or no one has designed any that look nice and function properly at the same time.

But the last time in Hollister, I bashed my rocker panel on a big rock and spent a lot of time repairing it. Since I prefer to avoid bashing it again if possible, I need to think about some kind of protection. And if I have to put some ugly protection on, I want them to be very functional and so I'm curious if there's any real world experience on how sliders are designed and what features are really useful vs what's just trendy. I've seen a bunch of articles/pictures with "kick outs" on the ends with some arguments on how they are helpful in preventing a slide forward into a rock. I've read about tube vs rectangle construction, etc. but most of it is just some opinion based on aesthetics and not specific functionality.

Any real world education that can be shared is appreciated, especially of its 69-72 friendly. I'd prefer to not do any trial and error on my rocker panels. :)
 
No help from me unfortunately. I just know that with the rocker boxes in place it's a pain in the butt.
 
I cut the rocker boxes out to make doing something better easier in the future. I "replaced" them with 2x4 tube that's tied into the cage. That structure is working fine for "on road" use, but I'm ready to start planning for more extreme use.
 
Not much 1st hand knowledge to add except that to be useful, the rock sliders shoud stick out far enough that they hit trees or rocks before the widest part of the body does (about midway down the curve of the door/quarterpanel). Obviously, if you are off-camber and tilting the wrong way the slider would need to be 18" wide to actually prevent body damage.... so no matter what, it won't prevent ALL damage. The best it can do is improve your odds.

My plan of record is to add a "replaceable" bolt-on section of metal to the underside of whatever rockslider I come up with. Something that will increase the wall-thickness in the area where rock strikes are most likely to occur, but also something that can be removed and replaced once it's get too bashed-up and ugly. It's going to be hard enough to build a good looking rockslider in the first place.... if it's not somehow "serviceable" and easily repairable I'd probably get annoyed.


-G
 
I like my sliders but i agree sticking them out further would be helpful
MINIMUM 6 inches out from bottom of door. Makes a good step and added protextion
I dirched the rocker boxes but kept the rocker panels. The sliders are below the rocker panels and connect to the frame and cage. Look at the pics of my cage and it shows them well
I wish I extended minw further out from the body. It would have saved a dent or 3.
 
Ok, at least there some real numbers floating around. I suppose if I really don't like they way they look, I can make them removable like Greg suggests. I won't need them on for 99%of the time anyway.
 
bp71k5 said:
Those look ok, but my questions are more about whether the truck has been wheeled enough to use them, and if so, how do they work?
Click to expand...

Looking at those photos again... I am tempted to be skeptical as well.

The entire torsion box is still intact, and the majority of the structure is getting it's support from the framerail.....close to 24" away!!! :eek1:

I see one tube that appears to go from the rear corner of the slider up through the missing endcap of the torsion box (probably a big "no no" since the cap provides structure to the torsion box) but that's about it.

That design is a HUGE torque arm against the framerail. I can't imagine how the sliders would not bend/flex upwards. Forget about actual wheeling.... just putting a Hi-Lift jack under them and lifting would probably show significant deflection into the outer rocker area.

If I was trying to build sliders and save the torsion boxes, I'd certainly come through the box in several places to support the slider along it's length...and tie the other end of those supports into the interior cage / seatrail areas somehow. You need SOME kind of triangulation from a third point somewhere above the framerail mount.....


:thinking:


-G
 
Greg72 said:
Looking at those photos again... I am tempted to be skeptical as well.

The entire torsion box is still intact, and the majority of the structure is getting it's support from the framerail.....close to 24" away!!! :eek1:

I see one tube that appears to go from the rear corner of the slider up through the missing endcap of the torsion box (probably a big "no no" since the cap provides structure to the torsion box) but that's about it.

That design is a HUGE torque arm against the framerail. I can't imagine how the sliders would not bend/flex upwards. Forget about actual wheeling.... just putting a Hi-Lift jack under them and lifting would probably show significant deflection into the outer rocker area.

If I was trying to build sliders and save the torsion boxes, I'd certainly come through the box in several places to support the slider along it's length...and tie the other end of those supports into the interior cage / seatrail areas somehow. You need SOME kind of triangulation from a third point somewhere above the framerail mount.....


:thinking:


-G
Click to expand...

Exactly why I wanted mine connected to the cage and frame. I have come down extremely hard on the slider and didn't do much but put a little ding in the bottom.

PC010112.jpg
 
I've got some places I can tie into the cage, a little like Duane's picture. I wonder if tieing both sliders together under the frame would help avoid the lever arm problem Greg mentioned. Not sure I want to reduce my ground clearance anymore though. May not be able to avoid it.
 
Removable idea -

What about rectangular tubing (laying flat) placed just behind the rocker lip along the entire length of the rocker (it'll be relatively hidden and act as a slider for going over obstacles underneath)
Then build whatever protection desired for side impact & panel protection that is made to bolt onto the square tubing.

Slider on / Slider off

Use your existing structure as a base to tie into.
 
Last edited:
vtblazer said:
Removable idea -

What about rectangular tubing (laying flat) placed just behind the rocker lip along the entire length of the rocker (it'll be relatively hidden and act as a slider for going over obstacles underneath)
Then build whatever protection desired for side impact & panel protection that is made to bolt onto the square tubing.
Click to expand...


That's the plan at the moment. Still debating tubing for the side impact portion or square tubing. I gotta make it match whatever I do for the rear bumper. :)
 
Checked out your build thread, really nice progress.

Shoulda checked earlier, now I'm up to speed. :popcorn:
 
Thanks. I'm kinda hoping someone will be able to post up a picture of side impact portion of sliders that look nice. That way I don't have to make them removable.
 
Brian,

I've got an idea for sliders that I think you're going to like.... You need to give me a couple more weeks to get it all figured out and assembled.

I'm building as fast as a I can! :haha:


-G
 
I'll be here. The trouble with your build is that there's way too many other cool ideas that can distract me into thinking I can do them too.
 
Knock knock knock... Penny...

Knock knock knock... Penny...

Knock knock knock... Penny...

:haha::haha::haha:

Greg brings out the debilitating OCD in all of us.:thumb:
 
bp71k5 said:
I'll be here. The trouble with your build is that there's way too many other cool ideas that can distract me into thinking I can do them too.
Click to expand...


Check out my build thread update today. :D

I just found photographic proof that I've actually been working on my rockslider solution for more than 11 years.

Rather embarrassing. :haha:


-G
 
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