69 Blazer Rusted out windshield frame repair/replacement(Glass Installed 10-29-10)

[sponsoredbydad]

So this repair freaked me out enough that I put it off for at least a year. Today I cut it off cleaned it out coated the inside with a rust inhibitor built some reinforcement rods for the inside and sized up the top piece to within 3/4 of an inch. Now for the what do you guys think part. Are the pieces of metal I shoved inside really necessary or is it massive overkill. The other is (if you had not already noticed by the pictures The doner frame came from a truck not a blazer as I could not find a blazer frame without buying a complete vech for less than a grand or three) Is this a big mistake? I more likely than not will never put my hard top on again, so a custom top piece would be ok with me. I have not welded it yet soooo?

 

[bp71k5]

I think the metal bars are overkill since the factory only used two layers of sheetmetal.

It depends on what your goals are, but losing the details for the hardtop mounting would be a shame. I'd at least try to make it look similar.

 

[vtblazer]

Way overkill IMO too but at least now you know it's strong enough.

I did sorta the same thing a couple years ago, approached it a wee-bit differently though.

I grafted a truck firewall onto a blazer tub and then grafted the top section of a blazer windshield frame to that.

Used the cut off windshield frame sections to clamp it all together.

 

[Greg72]

I'd try to replicate the Blazer-style header somehow.

Use the cut off header as a template and graft on what you need, or fabricate new pieces. I think that ignoring the capability to use a factory hardtop is shortsighted.... who knows what you might decide to do later on? It could be the kind of decision that you end up regretting later....

Doublecheck all your measurements before welding....you'll get exactly ONE chance to make an opening the the windshield will fit back into!!!


Looks good!

 

[sponsoredbydad]

Thanks for the feed back. I am going to save the end pieces and I took pictures so I can go back and try to obtain the original look a bit later. This sheet metal work was almost the death of this truck. The windshield pillars and rockers tested my patience and fab capabilities to the fullest. I am looking forward to some actual mechanical work at which I feel much more at home with.

Thanks again
Chris

 

[sponsoredbydad]

So after sleeping on it I decided to try and tackle the fab of the original look. After a full 5 hour attack with cutting wheels and plasma cutter I'm thinkin it's close. The cardboard window now fits and all the measurements are right on target to be welded, but thats another day.

 

[Greg72]

Looking back on this, I think you'll be happy you took the extra time to do it right.

Keep posting updates and pics.

 

[69TowRig]

The more people I see tackling this the closer I get to wanting to do it myself. I keep thinking that I will take my replacement frame and the truck to a shop to get it done (and I still may).

Good work!

 

[sponsoredbydad]

Just a couple more pics along the way. The top piece of which I am able to turn a truck roof into a Blazer edge was much more rusty than I had thought. So I split all the spot welds and gave that piece some separation anxiety. I'm in to this way deeper than someone with NO sheet metal experience should be.LOL

 

[sponsoredbydad]

Sorry I forgot the pics

 

[bp71k5]

Keep at it. Remember... measure twice, cut once.

 

[Greg72]

With a spotweld cutter you'd could look in for those small depressions in the metal (indicating where a factory spotweld is) and then cut only the metal around each one.

It's a lot less invasive and doesn't require all the cutting disc/screwdriver prying which can make a mess out of the part you're working on.

From the looks of it, you did fine.... there are LOTS of little tricks you'll learn along the way, but generally the cool tricks you learn always come too late to be helpful with the current project you're working on!!

If you ever decide to do front footwell rust repairs the spotweld trick works well there too to seperate the floor from the front cab supports.

 

[sponsoredbydad]

SO it;s been a good while and many distractions to keep me busy but i finally got back to the truck. This windshield frame was a challenge for me. I also figured out that I probably did not pick the easiest way. Here are some more pictures from along the way.

 

[sponsoredbydad]

More pictures. What are the three bolt holes used for on the end caps? I thought they were for the visors but their not. 2 of the holes have nuts welded on and the other had a slip on type thing to screw into. Should I or could I weld on nuts to all 3 holes?

 

[vtblazer]

They're for the door weather stripping to mount to.

Called the drip rail deflector.

 

[BobK]

Mine has the nut's welded to all 3 holes.
And this is what they are for.The door weather stripping attaches there.

Drip rail deflectors attach to the fiberglass top and to the "A" pillar.

 

[sponsoredbydad]

Thanks that is a great shot of the rubber for the door. Dont think Ive ever seen those drip rail deflectors thou

 

[sponsoredbydad]

Got some more time so I welded all new mounting nuts on the inside for hard top, sun visors and door rubbers. I filled some of the smaller holes with weld and ground them down as well. Today hopefully I'll be working on the final trimming of the last edge.

 

[Greg72]

Looks good..... you might be getting fed up with how long everything takes, but once it's complete you'll be happy you did things the "right" way.

 

[sponsoredbydad]

Fed up is right I thought I should of been done with this by now, but yea it does look alot better than I originally was going to leave it. I think so far about 40 hrs