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6inches plus ord zeros isnt enough

oakknight

1/2 ton status
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Looks like I will have to do some trimming

6 inch pro comp springs and ORd zeros with front axle relocated 1 inch forward is not enough to save the fenders from 37s ...

rtibazer.jpg
 
dont worry about trimming,if u take ur time and do it right u can make it look OEM. if ur good with an angle grinder,put a cutting wheel on there and it works great,then flap disc to smooth it. and add metal to the inner fender area,seal it off and make it look good of course:waytogo:
 
These are my beater fenders I have 2 sets in the garage once i get it figured out and how much i need to trim. I am new to any body or sheet metal work and will have to feel my way through it.

Wheels are recentered H1's 3.5 Back spacing from trailworthfab. Double bead lock 16.5's

Tires are Military BFG Baja Ta's 37 x12.5 x 16.5
 
That's weird. I have 4" plus a DIY4x EZ inch that locates the axle 1.5" forward and I hardly have to trim more than about a half inch off the rear of my front fenders. Though, I did have to trim a ton off the front of the front fenders.
 
We Messed around on the rocks at the local 4x shop . never hit the front at all , but did connect the rearward side a couple times getting on and off.

blazer test 002b.jpg

blazer test 004b.jpg
 
3M Thin-line striper's tape, 4" cut-off wheels, and a hammer..... :whistle:

She tuck'a 37's REAL good! :waytogo:
IMG_3867-1.jpg


IMG_3863-1.jpg
 
Right now, I'm looking at stuffing 38s with 4" lift and a degreed zero rate. :)

the rear wheel opening is only 37.5" hahaha


How far forward did you move the front axle? Those hangnail fender bottoms always get trimmed with most any larger tire. Nice lookin truck, IMO it will look even better trimmed up a little :D
 
We Messed around on the rocks at the local 4x shop . never hit the front at all , but did connect the rearward side a couple times getting on and off.
Fat Boyz? Or the other shop, can't remember the name.
 
Thank you . I hate the idea of having to trim as well. I have a new set of fenders in the garage, so these are the "beater" practice fenders so to speak.
My skills with the cut off leaves alot to be desired .lol
Next step will be ord 1 in body lift. then new fenders will go on and retest. Idea being to cut little as possible. none being the ideal.
 
Well, one way to help work that out would be to run some bump stops to limit up travel and then work on getting some serious droop. Good droop, plus bumps = fantastic suspension because the bump stop acts as a cantilever, pushing the drooped wheel into the ground for more traction. :waytogo:
 
Well, one way to help work that out would be to run some bump stops to limit up travel and then work on getting some serious droop. Good droop, plus bumps = fantastic suspension because the bump stop acts as a cantilever, pushing the drooped wheel into the ground for more traction. :waytogo:

^^This

Make bump stop mounts so that they bottom out an inch or so before the tires rub and you'll be good.
 
Ok I will look into that. coils obviously would be best , but out of the equation moniterily for now. How would I go about adding droop ? The procomp springs are stupid stiff , I believe they are for 3/4 ton the PO installed.
 
I've got procomp lift springs, and I think they flex really well. My limiting factor in the past has been having shocks that were too short. I've got 10+ inches of travel at the shock w/ mine. I could have more, but my brake lines are limiting the length of travel.

One think you can do is improve shackle angle and length. Also, bumps will improve droop because the lever arm will force it downward anyway.
 
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