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700r transmission pan question

which route to take

  • OEM pan with 10dollar drain plug kit installed

    Votes: 3 37.5%

  • Aluminum pan with kit already installed

    Votes: 3 37.5%

  • Steel aftermarket pan and drain plug kit

    Votes: 1 12.5%

  • HD off road pan, still need drain plug kit as well.

    Votes: 1 12.5%
  • Total voters
    8
  • Poll closed .
badmix

badmix

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I am getting a tranny temp gauge here soon and had a couple questions about the pan. Should I:

1) keep my stock pan and get the 10dollar drain plug kit and put sending unit there.

2) get the aluminum aftermarket pan with temp gauge bung already mounted

Is the aluminum pans better? more durable for off roading? I seen trans-dapt has a pan with 3/16th plate on the bottom, its steel pan and doesnt have the temp gauge bung.

So what would be the bestest setup to have for a normal DD off roading rig? aluminum, steel or OEM.

Also should I stick with stock capacity or increase it by getting deep pan. (2 qt increase)?
 
I kept the stock pan and ran an aux cooler. On the input side to the cooler, I installed a brass T to accept my temp sending unit. Just a thought...
 
I run a stock pan with 2 external coolers, external trans filter, and a temp gauge with a T fitting in one of the tranny cooler lines. I run two coolers mainly because of the AZ heat and amount of wheeling I used to do with it. The worst temp I ever got was trying to push 80mph in a slight headwind. I got to about 230*. On the trail rock crawling I never really get above 170*.

I have heard the deep aluminum pans can interfere with front driveshafts depending on the amount of lift and other factors. I have heard you can use the test port on the side of the trans to run a temp sender.

I would probably do the $10 kit for the stock pan personally.

Harley
 
X2 on what Harley said. I still dont have a front shaft on the Burb... But it depends on the T-case you are running.... I wanted to keep my 205, but the 208 case came stock behind the 700r4 and are offset to the frame more.
 
I run a stock pan with a drain plug bung welded to the bottom of the pan. Don't use the cheese whiz drain plug kits because they all leak no matter what you do. Just weld it and be done.

Put the sender for the gauge in the line pressure hole in the transmission case, that'll protect it from damage. The line pressure plug is on the driver's side of the case about 4 inches above the shifter lever. Just remove the plug and thread in the sender, it really is just that easy. This is a very accurate temperature reading in case you're wondering.
 
Hey Harley, How large are your trans coolers? I need to hook some up, my tranny hates the heat
 
bigblock72 said:
I run a stock pan with a drain plug bung welded to the bottom of the pan. Don't use the cheese whiz drain plug kits because they all leak no matter what you do. Just weld it and be done.

Put the sender for the gauge in the line pressure hole in the transmission case, that'll protect it from damage. The line pressure plug is on the driver's side of the case about 4 inches above the shifter lever. Just remove the plug and thread in the sender, it really is just that easy. This is a very accurate temperature reading in case you're wondering.
Click to expand...

Okay, I did this. got my gauge in today and installed it. I found that plug and pulled it. Put in the sending unit. I went for a drive (5-10min) and it only got to 150*. Also when I pulled that plug.. its not a normal looking plug, pics below. anything special about this plug? or is it jus that design, I jus dont want to pull a plug that has some kinda function other than covering up a hole. lol
 
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Here is the plug that I took out. Like I said, it looks like there is wear on the end, uneven wear at that. Not sure if this plugs does something or what not.


*Called a Tranny shop. dude seemed to know what he was talking about. lol. but says this plug does nothing, its jus a pressure test port and its just a diff. style of plug. Also said , its best to put sending unit on the cold side and/or at the pan for better readings, says the converter can get fluid up to 200-300degrees and you want to know that your system is staying cool, not jus hot. Seems to make sense. I may jus run with it where its at and see. Eventually maybe putting into the cool side by the trans cooler, etc.

trans.jpg

AAPLUG.jpg
 
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The plug is just a regular 1/8" NPT plug with a pilot tip to prevent crossthreading.

150 degrees sounds about right, the trans will rarely get above 200 degrees if it has enough cooling capacity. You shouldn't run the trans very long above 230 degrees, bad things start happening over 250 degrees. Keep it below 200 degrees, make sure the torque converter lockup is working properly and the trans will live a long happy life.

Why put the sender in the line? in order to get an accurate reading the sender will have to restrict the fluid flow slightly. The fittings required to make it work just add complexity and future leak points. There is absolutely no benefit in moving the sender from the case.
 
Thanks BB72 & everyone else. itll stay there in the case. install WAS easy, like ya said, no extra connection or blocks with potential to leak etc. :D
 
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