700R4 doubler vs SM465 doubler

[okie k5]

Okay here is the deal I have a 465 with the 205 it came with and I also have the stock 700r4/208 setup in my truck. I have an 88 K5 with 350. I am running the D60/14FF with 4.56s and a locker in back. I got 35's and I plan on going to 37 or 40's once I get the transmission stuff done. I drive my truck everyday and will likely do so for the forseeable future. Here are my questions:

Is the 700R4 a good candidate for the doubler? I worry about the crawl ratio since my engine is bone stock, maybe I can fix that after a doubler and tires. I also worry about the heat and how long the 700 will last. I know a lot of people talk about how good they are, but I have had mixed results with them. One I had lasted 150000 miles the next one lasted 15000. I have had this truck for 8 months and I always keep enough dough to replace the tranny should it go on me.

The next question is the SM465. I plan on rebuilding it and the 205 and 203. I probably won't have the money to get the doubler right away so I figured I would rebuild the 465,205,203 so I can find out if something is wrong and so I know they are fresh. I wonder if the low gearing of the SM465 and the doubler is even usable. Is it too low? Is there such a thing? I also wonder how hard the install is and if there will be any trouble with the TBI setup. I prefer manuals and I prefer how usually they give you some warning before they fail, unless you shatter a clutch. However the 700s I lost just went. No moaning, no complaining, just no shifting past first.

I figure this will likely stir some stuff up and I don't mind that as long as I know any bad experiences someone has had with either, as well as any good. Thanks for your time.

 

[sled_dog]

whats the purpose of your rig? I see mud in your sig. Doubler in the mud isn't a real neccessity. My opinion, SM465. But I hate autos... As for is there such a thing as too low a crawl ratio? Eh, there is depending on the purpose. My present ratio is about 70:1, with a 465, 241, and 4.10 gears. Have 5.13s shelfed, when they go in I'll be aorund 90:1. I think thats plenty for me. My main purpose is crawling with some mud running so thats a good thing.

 

[Hossbaby50]

I run a 700R4/208 with 4.56's and 35's. It crawls pretty well. I am as low as some people with doublers and Th350 & TH400's. That is why the 700R4/208 is called the poor mans doubler.

What terrain do you wheel?

Harley

 

[supersize75k5]

Harly if you want a good laugh I have been thinking about 700-r4s again /forums/images/graemlins/rotfl.gif

but by the time I buy one, and get a 241 or 208 I could have just got the doubler kit and put my 203 and 205 together.

/forums/images/graemlins/screwy.gif

 

[smprider112]

if u do rocks...get the 465 and doubler...U could burn up 4 700r4's b4 u even come close to killing a 465 /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif

 

[okie k5]

I do a little of everything. I want to be able to do some heavy trails and I want to be have the flexibility of working in the sand and the mud. I was doing the math and as far as crawl ration goes:
700R4/208/4.56 = 37
700R4/23/305/4.56 = 54.72
Sm465/203/205/4.56 = 118
I know people talk about the troque converter adding something to crawl ratio, but I don't know how reliable that is. So any education on that would be appreciated. I like the idea of the hard crawl ratio that the 465 gives. ARe there any reliability issues with it?

 

[Hossbaby50]

The torque converter does help with crawl. It helps alot, and makes driving a rig in the rocks easier to handle. If you are going to build a all around truck the Th400 doubler may be a better idea. It is stronger and will last longer. Autos tend to be easier to control in the rocks then a manual. Manuals usually need a deeper crawl ratio then autos to work well in the rocks.

If the rock crawling you do is alot of big rocks in straight lines the manual can a good choice, but the rocks here in AZ the auto makes life alot more bearable. We wheel alot of technical stuff that you are constantly repositioning to get on the lines. Going back and forth with the auto is easy. Just jokey it around. The manual will be tougher because you have to go back and forth and you are having to use that clutch pedal alot and clutches won't like you if you are always using them. Auto's heat up but you can put coolers and external filters to combat that problem.

A 700R4 doubler can be made to last but you will pay alot of money for the 700R4 to get built and you will pay alot for the doubler. If you are set on one of these 2 combo's and you don't mind riggin a handthrottle or doing the 3 foot boogy then the 465 might be a good canidate if you don't wheel alot of technical rocks.

Harley

 

[spoolnaround]

From real life situations I have personally seen, if you like to spend Big $$$ several times than be lazy and put the 700 in it. If you like simplicity and reliability than go with the 465. I know 3 guys that have more than 3K in their trannies (cause they have had to fix them so many times) and I have spent a whole $150 on a clutch (didnt really need it either but the trannie was out [ ah that doesnt include the 32 spline output though]) plus I have a 6.55:1 first. I prefeer the auto world myself but I dont like breaking stuff nor do I like having to redo stuff either. I say go witht the 465.

 

[84_Chevy_K10]

I don't care what anyone says, I think a doubler with a 465 would be unstopable.

That said if I had the money for a doubler I'd probably put it behind a TH 400 just for the simplicity. I love my 4 speed, and I bet I'd love it even more if I had a doubler, but an auto with a doubler is probably comparable to a stock 4 speed if not better.