CK5
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700R4 mod that I saw in a mag...

Just going to add that I doubt the transmission up/downshift setup from the factory was anything more than an attempt by GM to make sure people didn't blow up their engines.

I doubt a transmission cares much how fast you spin it. The pump pressure is regulated already, so if you turn it 8000RPM it's not going to put out twice as much pressure as at 4000RPM, it will max out at whatever the valves are set at, and stay there.

GM ran the TV cable setup for what, 11 years? I doubt it's a real issue, but a pressure gauge and adjusting it per GM instructions (or the builder) won't hurt. At least it's not $300.
 
I would stay as far away from mad dog lou as you can.

My little brother bought one from him it was suposed to be a 4x4 with several internal upgrades. It sure was purdy when it showed up in 2wd setup. We figured we would just have it converted to 4wd useing his old trans main shaft ect. Suprise suprise the internals although new, was simply stock no internal mods whatso ever.

It fried after about 4 months, but my bro is hard on vehicles anyway so I cant blame that on the trans. Its not that he abuses his ride, they just seam to fail on him. Bad karma maybe?
 
The pressure port is above the shift lever on the driverside...1/4" NPT

As I mentioned in another thread, when I finish building my 700, I'll be running a 300lb pressure gauge permenantly out on the hood, next to fuel psi and vacuum....

here's some basic line pressures your looking for...

Range Minimum Maximum
Park 90-110 190-230
Reverse 95-120 200-300
Neutral 90-110 190-230
Overdrive 90-110 190-230
Drive 90-110 190-230
Second 185-230 185-230
Low 185-230 185-230

I'd found this chart later on in the evening before hitting the bed. I'm assuming the low and high numbers are relevant with a standard valve body?

BTO requires you to go thru this test for warranty http://www.tvmadeez.com/pressure_test/index.php

I have heard of the "constant pressure" piece but haven't heard from any tranny experts on if it's good or bad... Certainly seems like it could save your tranny at some point... I'll have to ask my tranny mentor about it before we build my 700... I'm already going nuts with EVERY available upgrade you can run, might as well consider this...

If you don't mind, when you get a chance to speak to him, ask and check back and update this thread. I'd love to hear opinions from a tranny expert.
 
Just wanna subscribe to this one...

Putting a 700r in my 1st gen this coming summer.

x2. I got a built one going in the 82 Trazer in the spring...

I have a fairly new one now, but after I finish up with my axle, I'm going to try my hand at rebuilding the transfer case I have now (getting a rebuilt one--probably today to replace it in the short term). After that, I'd like to try a 700R4. The guy is actually trying to sell his recently-rebuilt 700R4 as well (he toasted it with a maladjusted TV cable).


If I could get a good 700 core for dirt-cheap, the price of the rebuilt kit and the new valve body would still have me hundreds of dollars less than paying someone else to rebuilt it.
 
Very true Jon IIRC the complete 700r4 stock rebuild kit is only like $200. Its the labor they stick you with on rebuilds. I dont know if I would try to rebuild an automatic without someone that KNOWS what they are doing there to help me. Then again I have never seen more than the bottom of the valve body, as far as automatic internals. I have a local transmission guy that although is high priced I trust his work and oppinion.

I consitered the constant pressure valve body(CP-VB) in my 700r4, in fact the trans guy and I had a 2 hour discussion about how to build mine. What we settled on was BEEF for towing and drivability. I never planed on doing much off roading in that burb. That and the fact that it wasnt a high HP application was the determining factor for not going with the CP-VB. We then chose the beefiest parts for longer life and reliability.

I happen to have the paperwork on it right here and its built as follows. It has 2 extra clutches in 1-2 and 1 extra clutch in the 3-4, performance downshift clutches, vented reverse to forward steel clutches all clutches are "raybestos Z-pak" brand. high output 13 vane pump, vette style "super hold" servo, with a wider stronger redline band. A stronger input housing, hardend torrington bearings and o-ring seal. A boost valve for 3-4, servo relese check valve 2nd gear, and vette style TV plunger. Fluid passages have been opened up a little(simular to a performance VB), 4l60e 5 gear planetaries. A mild "trans-go" towing or RV shift kit, and a 1800rpm stall converter. (I was told a stock converter was somewhere around 1200-1400 RPM stall). This is coming from his own typed build sheet. He also personaly promised this trans would hold up to 500HP or 650ftbls of TQ.

It shifts HARD when on the throttle and smooth as silk just cruizing. we added a 40,000lb GVW trans cooler and has plugged fittings for a trans pressure gauge and temp gauge but I never got around to getting the gauges before I sold it to my baby brother(18).



NOTE: I do NOT know much about automatics other than what I am told. I realy dont know what those parts listed above do. He typed it and printed it for me. its somewhat short hand to me, I would like to know what everything does.
 
That's not a bad point. If you can live with the TV cable, depending on your budget, that $300 or so for the valve body COULD be put towards heavier duty tranny internals. If you've got enough for all of it, great, get everything you want! :)
 
Hmmmm... My BRO is hard on his vehicles, too. He keeps 'em washed and shined, so you'd never know he floors 'em ALL THE TIME.
He cooked the CVT tranny in his Murano, and the 5 speed in his wife's Odyssey. The dealer never suspects a thing... Don't tell 'em... LOL...
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=0DPUtRF9vDM

It fried after about 4 months said:
 
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