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700r4 pan will not win !

Cleaning the surface is just a heavy wipe - Being that I dont use the RTV stuff. Removing the useless RTV on there right now should prove a learning experience though - Wire brush ?

In trying to describe "how tight" I torque my bolts, I palm a 1/4 drive ratchet with 6" extension, and snug until a small amount of tension is felt - I do not use the ratchet handle for leverage. Its not tight - Im sure if I tq'd it I'd be in the ball park.

Now, that cork gasket - Thats another creature all in itself. I knew it would fail but wanted to go through that motion to eliminate it possibly working. I snugged it as described above, but afterwards (initial leak returning), it was game on...and then game over.

The pressure switch in the picture - Is the wrong one, fitted to a reducer, to the transmis housing. The original was a pancake switch.

I just might look for this Permatex "Just Right" stuff......Ill assume an auto parts store is a good place to look intially.


Thanks for the input guys !



Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
 
When i changed my filter last week i had to do it twice. I sued the cork gasket kit for the first and rubber for the second. I've never had good luck with a cork gasket on anything. The steel inserted rubber is the best and what i asked for but got just a rubber gasket.

Either way it doesn't leak. I would say the pan would be your problem but don't know. I have aftermarket chrome or aluminum covers. They're almost never true in my experience
 
I was under the impression you shouldnt use RTV on auto trans pans, something about excess getting cought in the valves and whatnot.
 
79rustyk10 said:
I was under the impression you shouldnt use RTV on auto trans pans, something about excess getting cought in the valves and whatnot.
Click to expand...

this is why i said, VERY LIGHT coating, and only on the pan side, nothing to be able to squish out, just enough to tack the gasket to the pan, then i let it set for alittle while to tack up, and reassembly continues.

also cleanliness, brake cleaner is your best friend with this.

again, just personal preferences from past experiences that i have learned from trial and error.
 
Personal past experiences is what I am looking for being that my own personal experiences have failed to this point.

All the answers I have to this point are the wrong ones.

So keep the ideas coming - I'll be picking up the gasket tomorrow evening after work. I picked up the aluminum sheet for the shields this evening.

This leak is not going to win !



Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
 
just for safe measure, id put a hand vacuum pump on the nylon breather hose at the top of the transmission and try to suck out any debris that could be blocking it and triple check your fluid level.
 
Let's go back to basics....what type of pan is it? factory or aftermarket? If it is factory, have you tried to take the pan and flatten the bolt holes? If the bolts have been tightened several times on new gaskets they can be pulled in so that the area between the bolts isn't tight when the bolts are tight.
 
like i said before if aftermarket tin style toss it in the trash can and go back to stock or aluminum deep style. then dry dry dry and rubber gasket ( my style i like ) and good to go.

second time i have said this . and i fix cars all day at work. so take it with a grain of salt . :o
 
I was wondering how I would clear the breather tube - Good idea - Thanks.

As for fluid level. Last weekend I actually (This is sad but....) filled my loose pan with old fluid, almost to the peak, so that I could finally know what the extra depth added for fluid capacity - By taking it back out with a cup, into a funel over empty quart jugs. All so I wouldnt over fill. :doah:

8.5 quarts to the pan.


Basics. The pan is aftermarket #38-1914... Read - China. I havent had any issues with it until now. Each time I drop it I check the lips for flatness - I know exactly what youre referring to. If the holes high center towards the housing, the edges of the pan itself may not even touch the housing when torqued properly.

I hear what youre saying, k30 - I'm in the same field. HMMWVs own 3L60s and 4L80s... The are always up for leakage. Only difference being is the stock pan. I will say this much though - If it doesnt seal this round, an aluminum-higher quality pan will be in order. :bow:


Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
 
Lunatic said:
Cleaning the surface is just a heavy wipe -
Click to expand...
You have to remove all traces of the ATF before attempting to make a seal. So after most of the dripping is done, hit it with brake cleaner, follow with a clean rag, repeat and then seal. This applies to the pan, the tranny case and of course the gasket (if you are re-using).
 
Okay - Update

At this time it appears that the pan lost this fight. I show no signs of fluid anywhere. This is after a 30 minute road trip through town and on the highway.

I ended up with a Fel-Pro fiber gasket and some "Right Stuff". The sealant was noticeably different from RTV when applying - Which gave me a good feeling about it.

I did fab and install one heat shield, on the passenger side.


I will post a final update at the end of the week, if not beforehand (If the leak should return).







UPDATE: With the help of everyone's input - This pan is sealed after a week of DD - Thanks for all the replies and insight !!




Troy B
Ft Hood, TX
 
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I got the same problem on my th350 i have replaced the gasket about 3 times now and frankly im tired of doing it, the odd thing is that it does not leak all the time, went to the mountains last week and oil level is fine and walla no leaks it covered in dirt though:D
I'll gladly play in the mud if thats the solution!!
 
bot0611 said:
I got the same problem on my th350 i have replaced the gasket about 3 times now and frankly im tired of doing it, the odd thing is that it does not leak all the time, went to the mountains last week and oil level is fine and walla no leaks it covered in dirt though:D
I'll gladly play in the mud if thats the solution!!
Click to expand...
mud always helps ;) especially that stuff like we got that sets up like concrete and you can't hardly get it off
 
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