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700R4 question

Justin Fleming

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So I just got this new truck, and the guy had the trans rebuild and it only has a 100 miles or so on it. I drove it yesterday and noticed that it did not seem to be shifting in OD. Today I just took it for a quick spin and now I lost reverse. If I put it in revers and don't hit the gas it will slowly creep, if I touch the gas it slips and almost sound like it creates a bind of some sort. I limped it home and I am afraid to hit the gas in forward gear or reverse at this point.

Any ideas...
 
So I just got this new truck, and the guy had the trans rebuild and it only has a 100 miles or so on it. I drove it yesterday and noticed that it did not seem to be shifting in OD. Today I just took it for a quick spin and now I lost reverse. If I put it in revers and don't hit the gas it will slowly creep, if I touch the gas it slips and almost sound like it creates a bind of some sort. I limped it home and I am afraid to hit the gas in forward gear or reverse at this point.

Any ideas...
Hate to say it, but it sounds like it's on it's way out. I noticed another post from you about detent cable adjustment. Sounds like you have driven it with this cable not adjusted right , and have damaged the trans as a result. I hope I am wrong, and it is just something minor that you can fix.
 
well the shop had the dtent cable set and I noticed when driving yesterday that it did not seem to be getting 4th gear, maybe drove it 10 miles yesterday. Today I drove all of about 2 miles and then reverse went out...
 
well the shop had the dtent cable set and I noticed when driving yesterday that it did not seem to be getting 4th gear, maybe drove it 10 miles yesterday. Today I drove all of about 2 miles and then reverse went out...
No 3-4 shift could be the governor weights binding, valve stuck, retaining pin missing or loose, ect. ..... No reverse could be a number of things;clutch not releasing, manual valve link not connected, issues with the oil pump assembly ,ect. Find a reputable shop and have them look it over.
 
manual valve not connected? What is that? Is there anything that I can see from dropping the pan?
 
manual valve not connected? What is that? Is there anything that I can see from dropping the pan?
The manual valve is in the valve body.It is what the gear shift lever is ultimately hooked to. Feeds fluid to certain circuits in the valve body. You could drop the pan and see if it has come loose. Ibelieve it is the very front one on the side. Also check to make sure that the valve body bolts are tight. If the trans only has 100 miles , contact the previous owner , find out who rebuilt the trans and if it has a warranty.
 
yea calls are place, it was rebuilt in Cali and now the truck is in Michigan... so we will see what they do and or how they stand behind it....I am already expecting the worst at this point....
 
No 3-4 shift could be the governor weights binding, valve stuck, retaining pin missing or loose, ect. ..... No reverse could be a number of things;clutch not releasing, manual valve link not connected, issues with the oil pump assembly ,ect. Find a reputable shop and have them look it over.
The governor is on the side of the trans under a round sheetmetal cover. I recommend getting a GM shop manual , or download.
 
yea calls are place, it was rebuilt in Cali and now the truck is in Michigan... so we will see what they do and or how they stand behind it....I am already expecting the worst at this point....
Does the fluid smell burned ?I f it does , than Iwouldnt even mess with it. it's toast, total rebuild needed.
 
Well the trans certainly let loose something in side. The nice part is the guy is going to stand behind the repair, I just have to ship it there (kind of sucks). The bad part is that it took all weekend crawling around on my back to get the unit out of the truck, not set up for this type of overhaul, I sure envy those with lifts after this weekend

debris in trans pan 1.jpg

debris in trans pan 2.jpg

Trans out.jpg
 
Just a friendly reminder, take the adapter housing off of the back of the trans before you ship it.
 
Just wondering... any particular reason? I stuffed a bunch of paper towels up in there and taped it off to minimize any seepage during transport.....
 
I would do it to make sure that it doesn't get lost. If they don't have it , they can't lose it...
 
Just a friendly reminder, take the adapter housing off of the back of the trans before you ship it.

I would do it to make sure that it doesn't get lost. If they don't have it , they can't lose it...

X10 on that.

You should also use the rear trans adapter bolts and some wire, steel, wood, or something to hold the rear trans bearing and output shaft in place while being shipped. UPS and FEDEX are not real kind to freight sometimes.

My guess is that the PO had a half-ass rebuild done on the trans so he could sell it, and only replaced what needed to be replaced at the time and nothing more. So do not be surprised when the trans shop says you need to pay for some part that was not replaced in the original rebuild. When I have a trans rebuilt, I buy a complete Master Kit with all new clutches, friction plates, snap rings, pistons, reverse clutch band, and anything else that it could need.
 
Would it be less expensive to just keep it and rebuild it yourself? They're not hard to do, just a little time consuming. And you'd know what you have and what's been done to it. Just a thought if you don't mind doing the work. And only if it is going to cost more to send it back, wait for diagnosis, possibly pay for parts not replaced on previous rebuild (if it wasn't done right, or mechanical defect).
 
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The governor is on the side of the trans under a round sheetmetal cover. I recommend getting a GM shop manual , or download.

If you do decide to rebuild it yourself, as mentioned by MEANSTREAK, the governor is on the driver side and the servo is on the passenger side. Both are behind metal covers. Governor can be pried off, usually held on with silicone, but servo cover uses a metal ring in a groove of the cover housing to hold it in place.
 
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