CK5
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700r4 question.

Uh guys, it's not like a regular shower. With ATF you get undressed AFTER the shower.
 
The other bit is, once you lift and put a reasonable sized tire on it, overdrive becomes an LOL - you don't get better economy but you do get the opportunity to burn up the trans if it holds in 4th gear under load... my 2 cents.

That's a function of axle gearing, not particularly the transmission's fault.
 
Yep. I'm shooting for 35's and 4:88 gears with a 4 or 5 inch lift. That's my target set up.

I have a set of 4 inch shackle flip brackets, and plan on a set of ORD's custom springs for the front. Still stockpiling parts...I am closer than ever now....
 
That's a function of axle gearing, not particularly the transmission's fault.

transmissions have gears too... it's not all leprechauns, magic and unicorns in there.

but we can put that to rest - the 700r4 has a lower first gear then the turbo 400. Also, it was an apples/apples comparison as all the test subjects had 4:10 gears and similar sized tires.
 
Yep. I'm shooting for 35's and 4:88 gears with a 4 or 5 inch lift. That's my target set up.

I have a set of 4 inch shackle flip brackets, and plan on a set of ORD's custom springs for the front. Still stockpiling parts...I am closer than ever now....

I'm still not sure I made the right choice not going with an axle flip - but I do plan on using mine for heavy towing. I went all spring because I'm concerned that putting leverage, under the frame could create frame flexing... I dunno, not changing now so I guess that's a decision.
 
transmissions have gears too... it's not all leprechauns, magic and unicorns in there.

but we can put that to rest - the 700r4 has a lower first gear then the turbo 400. Also, it was an apples/apples comparison as all the test subjects had 4:10 gears and similar sized tires.

I know this, but if you're taking a stock truck and adjusting tire size, the tranny isn't going to stay happy unless the gearing is adjusted to match. If you take a well-geared TH400 rig and throw monster tires on it, it's not going to be any happier than the 700R4 that you described. If anything, it will be less happy as it has fewer gears and a lower starting ratio.

Comparing a 4.10:1/TH400 rig with a 4.10:1/700R4 rig is hardly an apples/apples comparison. You're a whole gear off, that TH400 should be at a 2.87 gear ratio, if there was such a thing, to make a true comparison (4.10 * the 0.70 O/D ratio of the 700R4).
 
not sure I see your point.... gearing is gearing, after all, I'm pretty certain Ford didn't take into account 38.5" tires on an FJ40 when they installed the 4.56 gears in the axles at the factory - yet it works quite well in that rig. Optimal depends far more on the purchaser then anything else, the same goes with the designer who determines what ratios go where into factory set ups. From what I understand from your prior statement, axle gearing is the only factor - and that I have trouble agreeing with as there is gear reduction in the transmission and the transfer case which affects how the vehicle does what it's supposed to do. We haven't even talked about motor changes or weight reductions (or increases). Both of those things also change what a vehicle needs for optimal performance. I had a 2.73 Suburban on 31s - nearly 30 mpg but if there was an ice age, I'd fear not being able to outrun the glaciers.
 
not sure I see your point.... gearing is gearing, after all, I'm pretty certain Ford didn't take into account 38.5" tires on an FJ40 when they installed the 4.56 gears in the axles at the factory - yet it works quite well in that rig. Optimal depends far more on the purchaser then anything else, the same goes with the designer who determines what ratios go where into factory set ups. From what I understand from your prior statement, axle gearing is the only factor - and that I have trouble agreeing with as there is gear reduction in the transmission and the transfer case which affects how the vehicle does what it's supposed to do. We haven't even talked about motor changes or weight reductions (or increases). Both of those things also change what a vehicle needs for optimal performance. I had a 2.73 Suburban on 31s - nearly 30 mpg but if there was an ice age, I'd fear not being able to outrun the glaciers.


I think we're on the same page, I just abbreviated too much above. The engine/wheel speed relationship is as follows:

Engine Speed Formula.PNG (T-case ratio should also be on that top line.)


Changing any one of these parameters without compensating via some other parameter will change the effective drive ratio. Huge tires on 2.73 gearing? Miserable. Tiny tires on 4.56 gearing? Not great at highway speed.

My original point was that gearing should be adjusted when bumping up tire size, and that the anemic transmission-killing behavior is a result of improper gearing. Not the transmission's fault.
 
today's motors need 10 speeds to be peppy. A BBC needs two, maybe three gears - Novak did a nice job explaining why a SM465 is a better transmission in a Jeep vs. the NV4500. http://www.novak-adapt.com/knowledge/transmissions/manual/nv4500

the nutshells is you never use the 5th gear, so why have it? On top of that, gear spacing on the 4 speed is actually better then the 5 speed). I don't disagree with them - the 5th gear in my FJ40 sees occasional use at best, it was free and it was yet another of those "you're an idiot you can't make it work because we're Pirates" things I did just to laugh at them. Then again, anything they say is pretty much guaranteed to be false (if you ever wonder why they're so enamored with 118" wheelbase rigs - the answer is simple, that's the wheelbase of a short bus)

and yes, painfully slow (2.73 gearing) but with the diesel, it worked.... slowly... but it worked. Did I mention it was slow? ;)
 
O.k., finally got to messing with this thing. Changed out the t.v. cable and it made a vast improvement. It'll hold gear as long as I keep my foot in the throttle. It stayed in second to 4 grand before I got out of it. The shifts are ranging between " very firm" and downright hard. It seems to be rpm specific, guess I'll have to get use to it still.

I haven't been anywhere to see if the o.d. is working yet. I'll do that this weekend.
 
It could be a click tight yet. It's possible the pedal isn't opening the throttle 100%, so you could try pulling the throttle by hand.
 
It did not click once when I installed it. I could loosen it manually I suppose. Loosen is when it clicks, yes?
 
Loosened it a wee bit, working much better now. I haven't been any where to check out the overdrive yet. Keeping my fingers crossed!
 

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