700r4, towing solution ???

[BettyBurb]

Here is what I am thinking of doing for my 1988 Suburban with 700r4 for towing.

Replace the motormite drainplug with B&M plug kit, hopefully the B&M doesnt leak like the motormite. I read on another post that the B&M is better and wont leak. Any installation tips here to prevent leak ???

Add B&M temperature gauge, part number 80212

Transmission cooler - B&M 70264 (24,000 - 11 X 6 X 1.5) or
B&M 70268 (19,000 - 11 x 7.5 x .75) or
Hayden Rapid Cool 679.

The B&M website says that their cooler will bypass when the fluid is thick, which should prevent gelling or freeze up. The Hayden recommends a thermostatic bypass kit to prevent freezeup.

I do drive in Colorado mountains and plains in subzero temps, so I dont want the fluid to gel or freeze.

Which cooler has other pros/cons to consider, including ease of installation ???

Also instead of the drain plug I am considering an aluminum pan. PML Low Profile (stock capacity) from yourcovers.com ($126.00) This looks pretty good and eliminates concern of exhaust, driveshaft clearance, transmission filter adapter etc. One concern is I dont want to pay this much for a pan that leaks at the plug, or needs to be altered in any way. I saw a post where somebody had to grind the pan to clear the converter housing or something. I hate leaks and dont like having to modify something that should fit to begin with. Anybody have any experience with this pan ???

All advice, opinions, tips or suggestions welcome.

Thanks

 

[90K5]

I put a drain plug on my stock pan and used JB Weld to hold the plug on, so it wouldn't leak. haven't had any leaks, but the JB Weld isn't holdinh it anymore, turned the drain plug and JB broke loose...doesn't leak though. if you can, try brazing it on. Don't spend all that money on an aftermarket pan, its not worth it.

 

[Thunder]

For the cooler i recomend the B&M supercooler stacked plate design cooler. I have the smaller one and it works ok but with a Sub you Might as well go with the 24000 GVW. I have had no problems with it cooling too much in sub zero temps. Mine is instaled in line with the stock(radiator) trans cooler.
I have not used the pan you are looking at. But I do Know that a some of the aftermarket extra capacity pans wont fit Subs /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif because of clearence issues I guess.
Acually with a good drain plug kit and the big cooler I think you will be fine with the stock pan.

 

[heavy4x4]

</font><blockquote><font class="small">In reply to:</font><hr />
The B&amp;M website says that their cooler will bypass when the fluid is thick, which should prevent gelling or freeze up. The Hayden recommends a thermostatic bypass kit to prevent freezeup.

[/ QUOTE ]

If this means what I think it says (don't want fluid to be freezing in the cooler when the truck is parked in cold whether - thus blocking the system) then I have a problem with that. Talk about companies trying to sell you something you don't need to bring in more money for themselves. First of all, don't you think the fluid would freeze first in the thin, long, steel lines running to the radiator? Secondly, I have a tranny cooler on my truck now...through one full winter and into this one - WITHOUT freeing problems (no thermostatic valve dohickey).

I hope that's what the above quote means, cuz if not, I'm sounding pretty stupid right about now.

 

[90K5]

I think your right...its will take a lot to make ATF freeze...

 

[jjlaughner]

I have the factory towing package on my blazer and tow a 26' camper through the mountains, no prob, I would say just about any after market cooler would be good. I also installed an inline filter from the tranny to the cooler (well spent $7). I use Valvoline everything... ATF, 10w30 valvoline, grease, TBI cleaner.
I also run 70 on the highway back and forth to work 65 miles each way with 3.08 gears and 32" tires, still stays cool, esp in the winter. No problems in Indiana winters (which get COLD and stay cold for weeks), with froozen ATF.
As far as the drain plug goes, I would use some red ATV around the base of the plug/bolt head when you tighten it down. I dont have a drain plug on the tranny though, if I'm changing fluid I usually remove the pan and check the valve body and filter along with the cables and electronic connections.
Good luck!
J /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif