700r4

[90GMCJim]

Want some input

Called around and got multiple different quotes for a rebuild

This will be a street truck.

What should I ask for when I’m looking into a rebuild. Any particular parts to upgrade?

Most shops recommended a shift kit. Clutches…

Just want to make sure I get the right stuff while I’m there

Also a reseal on the transfer case

$2400 trans rebuild has been the lowest.
$3200 next shop
$4000 last shop. He named a lot of things he would replace plus 7-800 for reseal of transfer


Thank you

 

[imiceman44]

Want some input

Called around and got multiple different quotes for a rebuild

This will be a street truck.

What should I ask for when I’m looking into a rebuild. Any particular parts to upgrade?

Most shops recommended a shift kit. Clutches…

Just want to make sure I get the right stuff while I’m there

Also a reseal on the transfer case

$2400 trans rebuild has been the lowest.
$3200 next shop
$4000 last shop. He named a lot of things he would replace plus 7-800 for reseal of transfer


Thank you

Are those in your neck of the woods?
Bay area prices are higher than Sacramento, you should be able to get a much better price for a little bit of extra gas.
I will double check with a couple of guys I work with.
You also want to ask what kind of warranty are they offering.
It was a couple of years ago but I got my 700r4 done for $1200 with 18 month /18k miles warranty, with shift management inc.

 

[Blue85]

Are you talking about a bench build, where you drop it off, or them pulling and re-installing the trans? Obviously different prices, but also a big impact on the warranty. What issues are you having that you want to rebuild it? If it's a 1990 unit, it won't need a lot of upgrades. You need to be specific about what it will or will not do. Some examples:

• downshift to 1st without stopping
• compression braking in manual ranges
• any changes in 4-3 downshift performance

Get specific quotes on parts, like upgrades servo, sunshell, any valve body changes, type of torque converter, etc. "Shift kit" is a very generic term that can be anything from $0.50 of accumulator shims to $1k of aftermarket valves and recalibration.

 

[90GMCJim]

Are those in your neck of the woods?
Bay area prices are higher than Sacramento, you should be able to get a much better price for a little bit of extra gas.
I will double check with a couple of guys I work with.
You also want to ask what kind of warranty are they offering.
It was a couple of years ago but I got my 700r4 done for $1200 with 18 month /18k miles warranty, with shift management inc.

2 places are real close and have a good reputation.

The one issue I’m having right now is I try to cruise it feels like it limps going from 3rd to 4th. Does it on the street and the freeway

This was before and after gear swap

Currently 4.56 and 35’s

 

[90GMCJim]

Are you talking about a bench build, where you drop it off, or them pulling and re-installing the trans? Obviously different prices, but also a big impact on the warranty. What issues are you having that you want to rebuild it? If it's a 1990 unit, it won't need a lot of upgrades. You need to be specific about what it will or will not do. Some examples:

• downshift to 1st without stopping
• compression braking in manual ranges
• any changes in 4-3 downshift performance

Get specific quotes on parts, like upgrades servo, sunshell, any valve body changes, type of torque converter, etc. "Shift kit" is a very generic term that can be anything from $0.50 of accumulator shims to $1k of aftermarket valves and recalibration.

I feel like it’s definitely between 3-4th gear. It feels like I have to stay on it to stay consistent. If I let off a little it feels like I’m loosing power and it will slowly climb back up. If I hit hard feel like it shifts and then goes back to normal. Don’t know if I’m explaining right.

1 shop said I can disconnect a plug on the driver side of transmission and see what that does. Something about lockup?

Not sure.

 

[90GMCJim]

Are you talking about a bench build, where you drop it off, or them pulling and re-installing the trans? Obviously different prices, but also a big impact on the warranty. What issues are you having that you want to rebuild it? If it's a 1990 unit, it won't need a lot of upgrades. You need to be specific about what it will or will not do. Some examples:

• downshift to 1st without stopping
• compression braking in manual ranges
• any changes in 4-3 downshift performance

Get specific quotes on parts, like upgrades servo, sunshell, any valve body changes, type of torque converter, etc. "Shift kit" is a very generic term that can be anything from $0.50 of accumulator shims to $1k of aftermarket valves and recalibration.

The shop for $3200 said bring the truck. I asked if I removed it he said like $2-300 cheaper.

At that point I’d rather drop it off.

The 1 shop for $4k did explain a lot about the parts he would upgrade. Just don’t remember.

 

[Blue85]

I feel like it’s definitely between 3-4th gear. It feels like I have to stay on it to stay consistent. If I let off a little it feels like I’m loosing power and it will slowly climb back up. If I hit hard feel like it shifts and then goes back to normal. Don’t know if I’m explaining right.

1 shop said I can disconnect a plug on the driver side of transmission and see what that does. Something about lockup?

Not sure.

What climbs back up? Engine RPM? What is "normal"?

It's true that unplugging the transmission will eliminate lockup. You can also unlock it by lightly applying the brake pedal. You should see the RPM go up and down a couple hundred with the throttle consistent. 4th gear without lockup will get the transmission hotter than usual.

 

[Wes Harden]

Yes i wouldn't run it long w/o lock up, unless cooker has been up graded. Count on flushing the internal cooler, and replacing/adding external.

4.56 and 35s is a good gear combo. 3rd 4th shift should fairly close to stock rpm.
But torque converter will lock up sooner under light throttle. If it does lock and you are low or below your power band truck will feel sluggish. By stepping on the gas the tc will unlock, giving a couple 100 more rpm, and the benefit of fluid torque mutiplier, this will help feel like more power.

Do you have a tach? What speed is a casual 3-4 up shift occurring.

 

[90GMCJim]

Yes i wouldn't run it long w/o lock up, unless cooker has been up graded. Count on flushing the internal cooler, and replacing/adding external.

4.56 and 35s is a good gear combo. 3rd 4th shift should fairly close to stock rpm.
But torque converter will lock up sooner under light throttle. If it does lock and you are low or below your power band truck will feel sluggish. By stepping on the gas the tc will unlock, giving a couple 100 more rpm, and the benefit of fluid torque mutiplier, this will help feel like more power.

Do you have a tach? What speed is a casual 3-4 up shift occurring.

This is all making sense now. It feels like I’m in a high gear at a Lower speed with a sluggish feel. If I hit it a little on the gas it shifts and back to normal feel of power.

No tach. Thinking about changing the dash to digital and adding that tach.

It’s all in the works right now. I was mostly shopping around on pricing just to see.

Depending on price I don’t mind rebuilding. Especially if I can do some upgrades

 

[90GMCJim]

Also I’m very happy with the 4.56 and 35’s. Has good response and feels good on the freeway. I was hesitant on the 4.56 and 35’s.

Was leaning towards 4.56 and 33’s.

I have been driving non stop. Definitely hitting the gas station often too

 

[Wes Harden]

Gas Stations are the best place to catch squares in wild on a trail cam

 

[Blue85]

Have you checked the setting of the TV cable? It may just be shifting early. If all you need is higher shift points, the governor can be swapped for one with lighter weights. It's accessed through a side cover - no need to drop the transmission. All shifting is hydraulic logic. The ECM only controls the torque converter clutch.