71 blazer need help

[pulser9]

Ok so iv been looking to get a blazer that the full top comes off (69-73 I think). Well i was goin to buy one a few weeks back that was rusted out prity bad and the motor was shot. But I didnt luckaly because I didnt think how much work it would be to repair it. Well i found another one on ebay thats in farly good shape. http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/1971-blazer-350-engine-68-69-70-71-72-Blazer-K-5_W0QQitemZ4639749061QQcategoryZ6154QQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem if i could get this for 2750 do you think that would be a good deal?

please give me some input
thanks guys
Kevin

 

[pulser9]

One more thing. This truck has is headers so what would be a good set of pipes and mufflers i should get that would be a good price? I want dual exaust to.

 

[Greg72]

That one looks a lot better than the last one (didn't you post one that had the entire rear floor rusted out? )

If you can get a running, not-too-rusty 1st Gen for $2000 - $3000 you're doing pretty well. There's some rust on that one, but probably something you can live with if you're going to wheel it anyway.

When it comes to buying a 1st Gen, keep in mind that you are about to own something that is close to 40 YEARS OLD!!!! With that in mind, you WILL have to go through and fix a lot of wiring splices, worn out parts, body mounts and other dry-rotted rubber lines, etc.

My best advice is to make sure that you don't spend your ENTIRE budget on the purchase....ideally, you should have maybe $2000 left over to deal with problems you'll find with any old vehicle. A prepurchase inspection (if possible) will help you identify engine or tranny problems up front....problems in those areas will destroy your budget immediately.

Good luck.

 

[pulser9]

I have about 4 grand to spend. So if I spend 2500 on the truck I figure id have to spend
300 - exaust (thats a given)
and that will leave me with like 1000 for other stuff.

My goal for the truck would be to replace the axles with i guess a dana 60 and idk what in the rear and run 38s or 40s. Put a 6 inch lift on. Tear the truck down to the frame and get the boby and frame media blasted. Repair the all the rust. Replace all the body mounts ect. Then eventualy replace the whole drivetrain with like a big block and idk what transmision and transfer case yet.

 

[Kyle Strong]

I hope those plans are over an extended period... 'cause that's a lot of money to put in it. Overall, I'd say it's a pretty good deal! I paid $1200 for my '72, and I'd say except for the paint, mine was in pretty much the same condition. As Greg said, expect to go through EVERYTHING. I'm slowly going through mine, and finding a lot of little things, mainly electrical problems, which sucks. Just inspect it in person if possible, like was said. Personally, it looks to be in sound condition. The rusted panels will need to be repaired/replaced, but that's something you can do at your leisure. I'll just add to make sure the engine/tranny is as strong as he says it is, unless you want to rebuild an engine sooner than you planned. That's my problem right now with mine. Good luck! If you want it, don't hesitate, you'll regret it later

 

[pulser9]

Haha yea everything I put in the botom paragraph will be over a very long period of time lol. Yea im definetly gana make sure the engine and tranny are strong cus that would just ruin my plans if they start havin trouble. How should I go about checking these when I take it for a test drive. I know im gana check the clutch shifting threw all the gears. What else can I do? Also the truck dosnt have a rear seat, What other rear seat would fit, would a rear seat from a newer k5 fit in there or should I just find one and make it fit.

 

[Kyle Strong]

I'm still fairly new to the whole thing myself, so others can correct me if the need arises. Um, I'd say an original replacement seat would be the best idea, but you could probably make another one fit. The truck's an auto if I remeber correctly, so I believe you should just check for firm/smooth, quick shifts, no slipping. Should pull strong and shift good under moderately hard acceleration. Same for the engine, should fire right up, idle/drive smooth, not have any strange noises or smoke, or leak. Also, check the t-case. Make sure it engages properly, and that the front shafts engage (have someone drive it, and see if the u-joints near the wheels are spinning). The steering should ideally be fairly tight, but from what I've experienced, most of these trucks have some slop in the steering. One more thing: check the wipers/lights/instruments, etc. I know this sounds basic, but I actually spaced checking the wipers when I test drove my truck, and it started raining on the way home. Went to turn them on, and nothing happened. Made for a very interesting drive home! If there are problems, I'd just make sure you can live with them for now. Every truck has it's quirks.

 

[71 Blazer]

It looks like a good deal to me. My 71 has more rust, but the engine was a new GM crate motor and the rear end was rebuilt, and I payed $1800. You have to way the pros and the cons. I have seen a MINT first gen go for up to $7000 if that helps. Also we have a first gen forum.

 

[Kyle Strong]

yeah, I'd love to go to it, but I'm broke and don't have the $25 right now...

 

[garlicbreath]

I spent 3500 for my 71, was in good shape. A little rust here and there but nothing too bad. I always say start out with as much truck as you can. Spending an extra grand on the purchase price can net you more than what dumping a grand into a cheaper truck would. IE one with less to fix up front. I knew I wanted 1 tons and a built motor so I looked more for one with a good body since I hate body work. Being anal and lazy doesn't make for a purty paint job.

 

[pulser9]

Ok im geting a calll back in 3 days to find out if im geting the truck theres a guy that may buy it for 3 grand and hes calling him on sunday so if he dosnt buy it im buying it for 2500. Also im in realy good shape to build this truck right now. A couple monthes ago my car got pathfinder got hit and its a old piece of **** so I didnt care about geting it fixed. So i just took off the fender and bumper and hamered them out and went to junkyard and got a new antena and headlight/blinker for 65. Well i just got my check in the mail for $2853 from state farm to get my car fixed so im just leaving it and spending this money on the blazer. So now i have the $2853+$4000that i already had. so i have like 7 grand and ill have like 4500 to spend on working on the blazer. So im prety excited.

Where should i look to get reprodution bucket seats, rear seats, center console, and door panels?

Thanks
Kevin

 

[Greg72]

Sounds like your off to a good start!!!!

Don't get destracted by too many of the "fluff" items initially. You will be shocked at how quickly even that $4500 can be burned up.

Step #1 should be fixing anything related to safety (rotten brake lines, bad brakes, seat belts, bald tires, truck mounted fire extinguisher, etc)

Step #2 should be for reliability items (engine tuneup, trans flush, replace u-joints, balljoints, repack bearings, etc)

Step #3 FINALLY is for the fun stuff like new carpet, trim, paint, lift kits, bigger tires, etc. This is the step that gets REALLY expensive because each change has a snowball effect on the other systems of the truck that must also be improved if you still want the safety and reliability.