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71K5 - BP71K5's Just for fun build

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Update: Back from the dead

After a lot of really late nights finishing the wiring and double checking everything that could go wrong, the engine is running.

I do have a couple water leaks from the radiator and temp sender to fix. The timing also needs to be tweaked a bit since I didn't put a gun on it yet.

If all goes well tomorrow, I can fab the accelerator cable bracket and go for a short drive to break the motor in. Now where did those break-in instructions from 4x4High go...:thinking:

It kinda sounds like the motor is running before I started it, but that's just the AC unit right behind the camera.

 
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bp71k5 said:
After a lot of really late nights finishing the wiring and double checking everything that could go wrong, the engine is running.

I do have a couple water leaks from the radiator and temp sender to fix. The timing also needs to be tweaked a bit since I didn't put a gun on it yet.

If all goes well tomorrow, I can fab the accelerator cable bracket and go for a short drive to break the motor in. Now where did those break-in instructions from 4x4High go...:thinking:

It kinda sounds like the motor is running before I started it, but that's just the AC unit right behind the camera.

Click to expand...

There isn't really any break-in instructions other than keep a high idle for a few minutes to promote oil splash onto the cam to keep the cam lobes happy for the first 10-15 minutes. Also, don't forget to change the oil and filter after the first 500 miles.
 
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I did find the written instructions in my glove box. I also got a whole case of that racing oil. I assume there's no harm in using that oil for more than the first 500 miles?
 
You can use that oil forever if you want. Just make sure to change it every 3000 miles or when it becomes black or dirty looking. The only thing that makes oil black is fuel. Keep that in mind and you'll be safe.
 
Sounds like an Air conditioner - oh wait that's what you said it was. can't really tell the difference. Rev her up and re-shoot.
 
Update: new exhaust and nice running motor

In trying to debug my motor timing issues, I got it running well enough to drive down to the exhaust shop to redo the exhaust for the third time and install an O2 bung for the sensor. Good news is that the motor is running quite well now. No more stumbling issues.

I got a 3" single exhaust with an 18" magnaflow. Since this was the third exhaust I've had put on this truck, I knew exactly how I wanted it to be routed and got the guy to put some removable sections in there to make maintance easier in the future. I think he did a pretty nice job and is now my new favorite exhaust mechanic.

exhaust 007.jpg

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New tranny cover

I was also able to button up the tranny tunnel in preparation for the x-case shifters. You can see there's just a small area at the back that needs to be patched up. The hump of the doubler adaptor fits right up in the raised area that supports the center console.

Still working out whether the single stick controlling both cases will work.

tranny tunnel 001.jpg

tranny tunnel 002.jpg
 
Driveshafts completed

I was also able to get a new longer driveshaft built in the rear with 1350 CV's and a shorter front shaft. I quit trying to make the front and rear the same since I had to upgrade the ujoints on the rear and didn't want to spend the cash right now to do the same for the front. the rear is about 4" shorter than the front now which is not too bad.

exhaust 002.jpg
 
The exhaust was done at a place called King Muffler down here in Morgan Hill. It's the place a guy from Pacific Fab was using so I figured I'd give it a try. He said he does a lot of classic and race cars and I noticed he seemed to take a lot more pride in the layout of the tubes than the other places I've been. It was even pretty reasonably priced.

It's got 2.5" from each side down into a 3" pipe before and after the muffler. I was shocked when he started it up to back it off the lift. I couldn't believe how quiet it is at idle.

My wife told me a bunch of stuff on the wall was shaking everywhere when I started it up to leave for the shop. No more shaking. :)
 
That looks nice. He did the exhaust and crossover in my mustang in the mid 90's. Glad to be reminded of him. Your tranny swap project sure has grown.
 
DOOD!! not only did I just resubscribe, actually am now able to use the search feature as my neurons apparently are firing again, BUT I also found the coolest thread ever! I'm on page 1 atm and gonna continue the beer flow and reaing till I'm done. I'm hooked hehehe
 
Update: Crossmember installed

In my mad push to get ready for Blazerbash, I've been trying to get stuff done that might prevent breakage. I'd been running it with only a single crossmember for a while and finally decided to finish up the tranny crossmember.

It's just a modified version of the standard crossmember, using the stock mounts on a 6" bridge in the middle. Nothing fancy.

crossmember 001.jpg

crossmember 002.jpg
 
It's very tight in there. I still haven't installed the doubler shifters so being able to temporarily remove the front crossmember should help while I make adjustments to it.

crossmember 003.jpg
 
Update: New tires

I took advantage of a 4wpw 20% off sale and got some new tires as well. 315-75 R16. Procomp AT. Nice tires and pretty smooth and quiet on the highway and are rated for snow which is the other use this thing will see.

I moved the rear axle back 1" and it seems to be able to just clear. The front is also pretty close, but will probably be ok with how I drive it.

tires.jpg

tires2.jpg
 
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Update: Squeak elimination

Since my wife and kid are also going to be riding in this thing for 2000 miles, reducing some of the noises from creaking fenders or clanking doors whenever I hit a small bump is pretty important for all of our sanity.

Both of the old doors were badly rusted at the bottom of the door and the drivers door hinge mount was broken causing the door to sag a lot and make tons of noise while driving. On the passenger side I cut out the bottom rusted section which had tons of bondo on it from the PO and intended to weld in a patch panel. Once I got the patch panel, I realized it's not as simple job to weld it in.

The trouble is the patches are stamped in thinner steel and always seem to have pre-built stress in all of the curved sections. The result is that if you cut away any of the folds or bends, the sheet springs back to it's original shape and is useless. This particular patch panel would require me to cut all four bends on it to allow it to fit.

doorrust.jpg

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New doors

So rather than spend a week trying to mess with it, I cut my losses and opted to just locate some decent truck doors and modify them according to the factory service manual to make them blazer doors.

This was much easier and I was able to even grind out the welds on the rear quarter wheel well that I cut out. It's also got a big bow from cutting away a bend but it's not as severe as the door would have been. I may cut it out and replace it with a long bed section which would give me about another 3/4" tire clearance on the rear and keep the body lines looking close to factory.

newdoors 002.jpg

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