bp71k5
3/4 ton status
There's always potential for issues with anyone but Kevin and Jason have always treated me right. Plus I live 15 minutes from the shop so it makes communication pretty easy.
CK5
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71K5 - BP71K5's Just for fun build
- Thread starter bp71k5
- Start date
There's always potential for issues with anyone but Kevin and Jason have always treated me right. Plus I live 15 minutes from the shop so it makes communication pretty easy.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Haha, I suspect Gregs will be getting a workout in due time. That Entropy model looks like it has nice sturdy mounts in the stock locations. It could be a contender if I decide not to cut up the core support. I'm super tired of this problem so I want to fix it so it doesn't need to be fixed again.
Living that close certainly makes things easier. Hopefully his issues are an anomaly.
My Ron Davis hasn't leaked a single drop of fluid in over 5 years.
Also, it hasn't HELD a drop of fluid. And my 502 uses less fuel than a Prius...!
-G
And some people think Big Blocks are gas guzzlers!
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
04/27/2015 Update:
Anyone think this might have something to do with it?
Anyone think this might have something to do with it?
Last edited by a moderator:
Ummm. Is that not a factory option for softer steering? Lol
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
The welds that are broken were solid when I bought the truck. Guessing the stress of bigger tires and crossover steering has added to the stress in that area of the frame. Whether it's the only problem or not, looks like I'll be replacing all the loose rivets and building some kind of brace down there. Maybe ORDs brace will work on a first gen?
You mean the one they make for the 67-72 trucks?
http://offroaddesign.com/catalog/steeringkit.htm
Also see the pix and notes on fitment.
-- A
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I was just looking on there an noticed that one note says I need about 3" of clearance between the crank pulley and the crossmember. I've only got 2" since I moved the engine up to the bigblock mount location.
That is not helping anything.
What do you have for a front bumper?
What do you have for a engine cradle?
What do you have for a front bumper?
What do you have for a engine cradle?
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Stock flimsy bumper and engine mounts up front.
Well I would look into both of those also.
It would seem to me that you frame is more then likely flexing at both of those spots also.
It would seem to me that you frame is more then likely flexing at both of those spots also.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Good point. Have to look into at least an engine crossmember. Might be a good time to fix my rear main seal leak.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Update 5/2/2015:
After testing some more steering, I could see the frame actually bending on turns so started some fabbin' on a steering brace. The ORD version would have been my first choice, but there's not enough room in front of the crank balancer.
If my mom bought me the dychem for my birthday, does that count for any man points?
Crossmember bolt reinforcement.
I could use some more practice in the garage witht this stuff. The little tube is to clearance a socket wrench so I can tighten the steering box bolt.
It's temporarily installed since I need to haul some stuff to the dump today but the steering is noticeably tighter. I can see the new plate flex a tiny bit, but the frame isn't doinrg what it was before so I think adding a rib along the long edge of this plate should stiffen it enough. Then just need to clean up all the welds and paint it. Not too shabby for 4 hours of work.
After testing some more steering, I could see the frame actually bending on turns so started some fabbin' on a steering brace. The ORD version would have been my first choice, but there's not enough room in front of the crank balancer.
If my mom bought me the dychem for my birthday, does that count for any man points?
Crossmember bolt reinforcement.
I could use some more practice in the garage witht this stuff. The little tube is to clearance a socket wrench so I can tighten the steering box bolt.
It's temporarily installed since I need to haul some stuff to the dump today but the steering is noticeably tighter. I can see the new plate flex a tiny bit, but the frame isn't doinrg what it was before so I think adding a rib along the long edge of this plate should stiffen it enough. Then just need to clean up all the welds and paint it. Not too shabby for 4 hours of work.
No man points until you learn how to actually spell Dykem....
-G
-G
Remembering where we are, i.e. the SF Bay area, every time you guys says "dyke'em" I think of something else
Diagonal wire cutters, aka "diags", pronounced "dikes." What did you think I meant?
-- A
Very nice!
And yeah, I betcha the center rib will prevent it bending. There's a ton of force down there.
-- A
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Update : Cinco de Mayo 2015
Radiator repair is waiting on the fix for the frame flexing so I found some time to install some new spark plug wires and heat shields.
Ever since I added the corvette manifolds, my spark plug boots behind the manifold outlet would burn through in several weeks. I had been using some fiberglass heat shields on them, but it just delayed the damage a few months. Since I was using corvette manifolds, I figured a corvette must have some way to deal with the heat and found these on Amazon.
So I installed those fairly easily, but they are so far down in the engine they are hard to get a picture of. Look for the thin metal shield to the right of the manifold outlet.
As you can see, I built some custom length Taylor wires and I'm going to try the fiberglass shields along with the metal shields and see how that works. I think the 69-72 k5s had similar metal shields but the larger outlet on this manifold meant I wasn't sure if they'd work or not so these were a cheap option to try. Incidentally, these new wires also got rid of the stereo noise I had when AirPlay'ing from my iPhone to the stereo. That's a bonus.
One other problem was that I had to bend my oil dipstick down a bit to clear the shield and I snapped the dipstick tube off. I bet that's not fun to get out.
Radiator repair is waiting on the fix for the frame flexing so I found some time to install some new spark plug wires and heat shields.
Ever since I added the corvette manifolds, my spark plug boots behind the manifold outlet would burn through in several weeks. I had been using some fiberglass heat shields on them, but it just delayed the damage a few months. Since I was using corvette manifolds, I figured a corvette must have some way to deal with the heat and found these on Amazon.
So I installed those fairly easily, but they are so far down in the engine they are hard to get a picture of. Look for the thin metal shield to the right of the manifold outlet.
As you can see, I built some custom length Taylor wires and I'm going to try the fiberglass shields along with the metal shields and see how that works. I think the 69-72 k5s had similar metal shields but the larger outlet on this manifold meant I wasn't sure if they'd work or not so these were a cheap option to try. Incidentally, these new wires also got rid of the stereo noise I had when AirPlay'ing from my iPhone to the stereo. That's a bonus.
One other problem was that I had to bend my oil dipstick down a bit to clear the shield and I snapped the dipstick tube off. I bet that's not fun to get out.
The dipstick wasn't too bad on my truck to get out. It literally pulled right out when I had to put my headers on. Getting it back in all the way was another story.
I did that a few years back. I was able to slide a pick down inside and get it out. I've also done it by bending the tube in enough to get some needle-nose pliers on it and yank it out.
GL!
