CK5
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71K5 - BP71K5's Just for fun build
- Thread starter bp71k5
- Start date
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
The patch panels will never line up perfectly, At least mine didn’t. That’s the hardest part, if I would have fit them better before welding them up, it would have been much easier. that and the TIG welder so you don’t have to grind so much.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
To all of you who can TIG weld aluminum proficiently…you have my respect. I have a big failure pile to show for it along with hours sunk into making it but I’ve actually learned a few things and hoping to get better to help with some projects on my k5.
That is the one thing I wish I had taken classes for. Bad habits sink in quickly. When I was learning, there were not videos on the internet to watch. I shake too much now to do thin material now.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
I was actually looking for videos to help avoid hand shaking. I discovered that the steadier I try to hold my hand, the shakier it gets. So now I just try and relax it and not squeeze the torch with my fingers. It helps a lot, but I got plenty of other issues to overcome. Aluminum is nothing like steel.
True.
I had the privilege of watching a pro weld my reefer trailer aluminum floor multiple times and I asked a lot of questions, why this and how that.
I haven't the chance to practice much yet but I have in my head the real video so hopefully it will be easier to learn
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Been a few months but I did some work patching the rear quarter panel wheel arch. I picked up one of those harbor freight shrinker-stretcher kits to build this patch panel. The part I cut off is in my hand and the replacement is welded in.
Still practicing TIG, still need a lot more practice. I’ve got some other non k5 projects going on so it’s slow but weather is warming up so I’d like to drive it. It’ll need to spray some primer on it to avoid rusting while the next repairs are waiting.
Still practicing TIG, still need a lot more practice. I’ve got some other non k5 projects going on so it’s slow but weather is warming up so I’d like to drive it. It’ll need to spray some primer on it to avoid rusting while the next repairs are waiting.
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I am waiting to see how those pool anchors work out with the epoxy….
Swim season is already here. Tick-tock!!
-G
Swim season is already here. Tick-tock!!
-G
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Ha! They better work out, I could have fabbed them myself for 1/4 of what they cost. If anyone knows a pool plaster contractor in the area, I can write a check to get started today.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Small pic of my welding practice. I’ve built 11 of these so far (inadvertent YouTube channel requests) and each one looks nicer than the previous so getting better. Ive been frustrated that my tungsten wears out too fast and discovered most of the wear was coming from running too many amps through the 3/32 so once I bumped up to 5/32 it doesn’t decompose as easy at 120A
I’ve found that I can’t weld over 120A without popping the breaker so I need to upgrade my electrical panel or buy another house to really weld 1/4” steel.
Got some more fender work coming soon.
I’ve found that I can’t weld over 120A without popping the breaker so I need to upgrade my electrical panel or buy another house to really weld 1/4” steel.
Got some more fender work coming soon.
I will plead ignorance, what is that?
Brian, I weld with a 3/32” tungsten at 200A all the time. I am suspicious that the problem lies elsewhere. Keep a close eye on your distance from the part… coming from MIG you are probably accustomed to having that nozzle WAY back from your weld. With TIG the gap between the tip of the tungsten and the weld pool is maybe 1/16”!!! (Which is why it’s so difficult not to dip the tungsten when your are floating your torch hand). If you are too far away, the arc length is huge and it will take forever to get a puddle initiated… and will probably beat the crap out of your tungsten with all the arc-wander. Find a way to rest your hand so that its super comfortable and you can slide it easily at a 1/16” distance… my guess is that a lot of your current issues will resolve themselves. Keep at it, don’t give up!!!
-G
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
It’s a concrete lifting tool kinda like a railroad jack. You can hammer it into the ground under a slab and then put a hydraulic jack under it to lift the edge of the slab back to level. I posted a video of it a while back and people have been asking me to build them one so I found a laser cutter and have been using that for welding practice. Still a little in the hole money-wise but close to broke even.
Did you buy a laser cutter?
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
That may be one of my issues! I can get real bad hand shakes so I do tend to keep longer electrode distance. I also found my ground strap has over-heated and I wonder if that’s why. I’ve watched all of Dusty’s (Pacific Arc TIG) tutorials on hand placement and I have a hard time not using my wrist as a pivot, even though I know it’s not ideal. Maybe I need to reset my thinking and start from scratch. Id really like to get better.Brian, I weld with a 3/32” tungsten at 200A all the time. I am suspicious that the problem lies elsewhere. Keep a close eye on your distance from the part… coming from MIG you are probably accustomed to having that nozzle WAY back from your weld. With TIG the gap between the tip of the tungsten and the weld pool is maybe 1/16”!!! (Which is why it’s so difficult not to dip the tungsten when your are floating your torch hand). If you are too far away, the arc length is huge and it will take forever to get a puddle initiated… and will probably beat the crap out of your tungsten with all the arc-wander. Find a way to rest your hand so that its super comfortable and you can slide it easily at a 1/16” distance… my guess is that a lot of your current issues will resolve themselves. Keep at it, don’t give up!!!
-G
I’ll have to do some experiments. Thanks for the tip!
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
No, hired it out. There’s a place over in the direction of middlebrook pike that’s reasonable. If you ever need something like that I can send the info.
I also found that running the ground straight to the part, not through the table, helps with the arc control. With MIG it did not matter.
If you want, in the future, bring you metal and use my table. Just replace the consumables. A little more clean up compared to laser.
