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71K5 - BP71K5's Just for fun build

I found some good pricing on the Husmat from (REMOVED Site). My Bad. They suck!
I bought the black to blend in better under the dash area. I know the silver is supposed to reflect the heat better.But I think it only applys to direct light .:dunno:

I bought the 12x12 squares, 4 of them for 29.99 and the 6x12 ones for $16.99.

Greg is correct on the tin shield. I used it on a previous truck and it really helped. Just use a thick enough piece so it doesn't vibrate. I used some thin roofing tin at first.

Keep us updated on the durabilty by the exhaust.
 
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That's actually a good idea to try out a simple metal shield. One theory I still need to confirm is that the radiator fans blowing hot air across the floor is the primary source of interior heat. If I can isolate the exhaust pipe from the fans, that might help determine if that's true. I'd love to find somethinG other than this mat to use under the floor. The trouble with the fiber based shield stuff is that it holds moisture/oil.
 
I know the silver is supposed to reflect the heat better.But I think it only applys to direct light.

The reflective properties of the aluminum should reflect all types of radiation based heat transfer including visible light and invisible light in the infrared spectrum. To test whether there's enough of that type of heat transfer going on, I should be able to make a simple thin foil shield and see if the results are the same as the mat. I suspect the metal layer of the mat is what's making the difference and not the rubber and that test would confirm or "bust" that idea.
 
Update: Test #2 Aluminum foil heat shield

As another test, I loosly taped a piece of aluminum foil over the entire drivers side of the floor and did the same warm-up and test point measurements.

foil 004.jpg

Results:
1. Firewall - 113 F
2. Floor (forward position) with only foil insulation - 94 F
3. Floor (rear position) with foil and the earlier mat layer - 91F
4. Ambient temp - 75 F

So it appears the aluminum foil shield is as good or better than the rubber mat. I believe I can fabricate some kind of more sturdy shield under the floor, but I'm not sure what to do about the firewall. It's super hot to the touch on the interior and I don't want to fabricate a metal shield in the engine compartment that detracts from the appearance. Some kind of paint insulation might work better there. Any other ideas?

foil 004.jpg
 
Wow - cool thread!

I think Greg is right on with his heat shield idea -

I would try to go to a newer car wrecking yard and look at how they insulate.

A couple of ideas that struck me:

Mount heat shield to tranny/engine rather than sheet metal
Have you looked at exhaust wrap?

For hair-brained ideas - What about a "false" firewall (mount an additional firewall panel inside cab so that external firewall acts as heat shield??)
 
I think Greg is right on with his heat shield idea

Me too. Even foil works about the same as the mat and a metal shield would be much easier to deal with than hot rubbery stuff under there, not to mention cheaper.

Mount heat shield to tranny/engine rather than sheet metal. Have you looked at exhaust wrap?

I'm not a fan of exhaust wrap since it just holds moisture and is hard to keep clean. The other problem with it is that it doesn't do anything for the heat coming from the radiator. A shield attached to the engine might be able to block the manifolds though and might help some.

For hair-brained ideas - What about a "false" firewall (mount an additional firewall panel inside cab so that external firewall acts as heat shield??)

I'll have to think about that one, although once the heat soaks into the interior, it's tough to block it any further without using carpet or something like that. I was actually thinking about some kind of air deflector at the bottom of the floor to direct hot radiator air downward instead of across the floor. Maybe it could be attached to a separate shield right above the exhaust pipe. My only rigid requirement is that it keeps the normal appearance of the truck intact.
 
Make an air temperature measurement just behind the fans (with them on). If the floor is hotter or nearly as hot as the air, I doubt the fans are the main source of the heat.
 
Make an air temperature measurement just behind the fans (with them on). If the floor is hotter or nearly as hot as the air, I doubt the fans are the main source of the heat.

The floor is definately the "coolest" area, although I should actually measure it. The engine side of the firewall up by the brake booster is so hot, I can barely keep my finger on the surface for more than a few seconds even though it's not next to any exhaust components. I suppose the heat might be from the air blowing across the exhaust manifolds and then against the firewall (rather than pure radiator heat). But it does make sense to locate the hottest area and see about attacking it directly. Thanks.
 
Are you still running inner fenderwells?

The original design is supposed to push engine heat through the tunnel and out the bottom...but with fenderwells removed I'll bet a lot of stale air just sits at the transmission area heat-soaking the floor. At least that's what I think happens with mine... :thinking:

:usaflag:
 
The floor is definately the "coolest" area, although I should actually measure it. The engine side of the firewall up by the brake booster is so hot, I can barely keep my finger on the surface for more than a few seconds even though it's not next to any exhaust components. I suppose the heat might be from the air blowing across the exhaust manifolds and then against the firewall (rather than pure radiator heat). But it does make sense to locate the hottest area and see about attacking it directly. Thanks.

Then substitute firewall for floor in my previous post (I should have read your posts more closely), but you've got the idea.
 
Are you still running inner fenderwells?

Yep. I haven't tracked the source yet, but the floor area isnt overly hot before the electric fans come on. Once they do, it feels like a heat gun under there with a strong source of air flow. It possible the exhaust manifolds are contributing to it though so it might be useful to figure that out.
 
Found this stuff online.

http://paceperformance.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=184819

Looks like it's fiberglass encased in aluminum which might not be hard to clean and is about the same price as aluminum sheeting for what I can buy it for. I'm thinking the firewall might still look ok with some if this stuff. I'll have to make some cardboard templates and take a look.
 
Okay - I've been obsessing over this now - and my blazer is in pieces - LOL

Other ideas:

Louvers in hood to let heat out
Louvers or holes at top of firewall so heat goes out through cowl
Shaker hood style vents to let cool air in
Aluminum heat shields around headers (similar to new stock manifolds)
Aluminum heat shield between tranny tunnel and tranny (not much room though)
 
Found this stuff online.

http://paceperformance.com/index.asp?PageAction=VIEWPROD&ProdID=184819

Looks like it's fiberglass encased in aluminum which might not be hard to clean and is about the same price as aluminum sheeting for what I can buy it for. I'm thinking the firewall might still look ok with some if this stuff. I'll have to make some cardboard templates and take a look.

Even more cool ideas here.
http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/thermal_barrier_index.php

I like this one http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/heat_shield_mat.php
or even this one http://www.heatshieldproducts.com/heat_shield_cloth.php

Just wondering how well it would hold up on an off road rig.
 
Update #2 - Aluminum shielding

I was able to make some pretty cool progress after looking at the retail heat shield products. I was able to get a look at some of it at Vic Hubbards and it's essentially fiberglass weave with a thin foil layer woven over it. It's nice stuff, but requires gluing it down or using a bunch of fasteners. I wasn't sure I wanted to try gluing it down or trying to get a bunch of screws installed in such a tight space. So I decided to try another route first.

I'm not sure why, but buying aluminum sheet in stock pieces from the hardware store is rediculously expensive. A 4" x 18" piece of .025" aluminum was over $30 at several different stores I checked. So I improvised and found a much better option at a super cheap price:

shield 012.jpg

Aluminum venting is the same thickness and about the right size when unrolled. Price was $4.95. :) I saw some 30" diameter water heater drip trays that would have worked as well and were reasonably priced.

After doing some test measurements, I discovered that the radiator fans were not blowing much heat from the radiator itself, but when that air passed the exhaust manifolds, it really heated up. So I fabricated the aluminum sheet into a shape that fit against the firewall and right behind the manifold. The idea being to try and direct the heat down and under the truck where it can dissipate in the air rather than soaking into the firewall.

Here's the shield mockup in place over the hottest part of the truck. I just taped it in place for the test so it wouldn't fall off, and then did my test drive routine to warm it up.
shield 006.jpg

And here's the numbers from both this test and the previous test:

Test#1 (aluminum foil under floor, firewall exposed)
Ambient = 75 degrees
Firewall = 113
Front half of floor = 94
rear half of floor = 91

Test #2 (Aluminum firewall shield, floor exposed)
Ambient = 77 degrees
Firewall = 93
Front half of floor = 110
Rear half of floor = 93

If you look at the firewall numbers, you can see the temp went from 113 (no shield) down to 93 (with shield). That's a 20% drop when the ambient differences are factored in and is only 16 degrees above ambient. That's a very noticable difference. Pretty good!

The other numbers to notice are the "Front half of the floor" (the area under the gas pedal). After the shield was installed, this area is now the hottest area and is even hotter than Test #1. I assume that all the heat being blocked at the firewall is now being directed under the floor. So the heat is moving in the right direction.

So it looks like the idea can work quite well. I'll probably add another shield under the floor to block more of it. I also may be able to copy the professional shield products and sandwich a layer of fiberglass matte between two layers of aluminum and form the edges so they're not sharp and maybe even make it somewhat waterproof.

Thanks for all the pointers in the right direction everyone!

shield 012.jpg

shield 006.jpg
 
Just make sure when you add the other shield, have it join up with this one. I would be concerned that if there is a gap in there that it would funnel in through the hole and be even hotter.

I was looking at all the different mat option that I poster earlier and I don't think any of them would be a good solution for an off road truck. They are all open weaved and would fill up with mud and water. I almost bought the Lava mat one.

I have one advantage, I have no motor installed and the firewall and underneath are completely stripped.

Keep us updated on the testing.
 
I was looking at all the different mat option that I poster earlier and I don't think any of them would be a good solution for an off road truck. They are all open weaved and would fill up with mud and water. I almost bought the Lava mat one.

A piece of your material of choice sandwiched between two pieces of "modified" aluminum ducting might be the way to solve that issue....

:thinking:



:usaflag:
 
A piece of your material of choice sandwiched between two pieces of "modified" aluminum ducting might be the way to solve that issue..

That's kinda what I'm thinking. I was able to look at samples of that stuff at the store and the fiberglass looks identical to the stuff you get at any fiberglass supplier. Since it's meant to be applied directly to the surface it's protecting, I think the fiberglass just creates an airspace that blocks the heat from reaching what's behind it. I bet a single layer metal shield that's spaced off the surface would perform similarly. That's what I've seen in newer vehicle engine compartments.

I'm gonna overlap another shield to protect the floor and then test it a final time before makin the "real" one. I can add the fiberglass to that one and see if it does anything measurable, but I'm guessing not.
 

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