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71K5 - BP71K5's Just for fun build

Update 12/19/2015:

I've been slowly fine tuning my engine and can report that my last tank of gas came to a solid 9.5mpg which includes in traffic driving. Total range of truck (that's been actually tested) on one tank of 87 octane is 158.7 miles. Pretty sure I could do at least 175 miles of just freeway driving. Next Moab trip just got a little cheaper. :)

And got back to the getting the rear seat installed. The last mounting system didn't require any tools to remove/install but it kept getting rusty on the big locking "pins" because I couldn't paint them.

New idea is a couple sections of 1x3 and 1.5x3 rectangle tube. The larger tube was cut in half down the length and then bolted down to the bed.

I seem to have lost a few pics, but here's the larger tube getting cut up a bit.




One of my requirements is to be able to slide the seat forward a bit when I need to pack some extra stuff in the back. Even though this new seat is lighter than the stock one, it'll be nice to be able to just pull some pins and slide it forward a couple feet.

The seat rail can't slide inside this one with bolts sticking up so I chose a high-strength 7/16" fine thread flat head bolt. (It bolts into the stock forward bench seat holes). I chamfered the hole with a giant countersink bit I got from Amazon. It's been working great for chamfering holes.



There's a test fit of the bolt.


And let's skip forward a bit to where I bolt these two "U" channels down to the bed. When the seat is removed, I can use these as tie-downs for bigger stuff if needed.


The idea is that the seat is attached to the smaller rectangle tubes which will sit inside the two parts bolted down to the bed. I'm using some 3/8" pins that go through both tubes to lock them together.



On to the portion that the seat is bolted to. 1.25" DOM connecting the two pieces of 1x3 tube.




Nothing fancy to attach the seat. The front gets some tabs. I also capped and rounded the front of the tube so when I disconnect it and shove it forward, it doesn't gouge my bedliner. Also note the locking pin I am trying out to keep everything in place.




The rear mounting points have a thick 3/4"X 3/8" inner diameter steel spacer that goes through both sides of the rectangle tube and is welded on both ends. The seat mounting points bolt directly to one of these on each side.


There's the other end of that bolt.


There's a bigger view of the seat mounted temporarily.



And a few more in the truck. Kinda easier to see how it goes together in this one.


Checking head clearance with my son. I can already tell I'm going to need to cut the back half of the cage off and extend it out a foot or so when my kids get to be teenagers.


That's it for now. Just need to figure out rear restraint options (seat belts) and remove some rust and clean up and paint it and bolt everything together.
 
The kids never seem to stop growing even when we tell them it screws up our good fab work from yesteryear....



-G
 
Update 12/19/2015:

I've been slowly fine tuning my engine and can report that my last tank of gas came to a solid 9.5mpg which includes in traffic driving. Total range of truck (that's been actually tested) on one tank of 87 octane is 158.7 miles. Pretty sure I could do at least 175 miles of just freeway driving. Next Moab trip just got a little cheaper. :)

And got back to the getting the rear seat installed. The last mounting system didn't require any tools to remove/install but it kept getting rusty on the big locking "pins" because I couldn't paint them.

New idea is a couple sections of 1x3 and 1.5x3 rectangle tube. The larger tube was cut in half down the length and then bolted down to the bed.

I seem to have lost a few pics, but here's the larger tube getting cut up a bit.




One of my requirements is to be able to slide the seat forward a bit when I need to pack some extra stuff in the back. Even though this new seat is lighter than the stock one, it'll be nice to be able to just pull some pins and slide it forward a couple feet.

The seat rail can't slide inside this one with bolts sticking up so I chose a high-strength 7/16" fine thread flat head bolt. (It bolts into the stock forward bench seat holes). I chamfered the hole with a giant countersink bit I got from Amazon. It's been working great for chamfering holes.



There's a test fit of the bolt.


And let's skip forward a bit to where I bolt these two "U" channels down to the bed. When the seat is removed, I can use these as tie-downs for bigger stuff if needed.


The idea is that the seat is attached to the smaller rectangle tubes which will sit inside the two parts bolted down to the bed. I'm using some 3/8" pins that go through both tubes to lock them together.



On to the portion that the seat is bolted to. 1.25" DOM connecting the two pieces of 1x3 tube.




Nothing fancy to attach the seat. The front gets some tabs. I also capped and rounded the front of the tube so when I disconnect it and shove it forward, it doesn't gouge my bedliner. Also note the locking pin I am trying out to keep everything in place.




The rear mounting points have a thick 3/4"X 3/8" inner diameter steel spacer that goes through both sides of the rectangle tube and is welded on both ends. The seat mounting points bolt directly to one of these on each side.


There's the other end of that bolt.


There's a bigger view of the seat mounted temporarily.



And a few more in the truck. Kinda easier to see how it goes together in this one.


Checking head clearance with my son. I can already tell I'm going to need to cut the back half of the cage off and extend it out a foot or so when my kids get to be teenagers.


That's it for now. Just need to figure out rear restraint options (seat belts) and remove some rust and clean up and paint it and bolt everything together.
Thanks, it felt good to get outside and cut and grind some stuff.
 
Nice work!

I have a couple questions. One, I couldn't find in the thread where you got the bench seat from. What brand is it? Second, could you measure for me the overall depth? Not just the mounting depth but from the back of the seat back to the front of seat.

I'm curious if a bench seat would fit a little more snug in the back of my crew cab versus the high-back buckets I have now. The seats ended up a lot closer to the front seats than I wanted because of the need to clear the headrests from hitting the back window.
 
Nice work!

I have a couple questions. One, I couldn't find in the thread where you got the bench seat from. What brand is it? Second, could you measure for me the overall depth? Not just the mounting depth but from the back of the seat back to the front of seat.

I'm curious if a bench seat would fit a little more snug in the back of my crew cab versus the high-back buckets I have now. The seats ended up a lot closer to the front seats than I wanted because of the need to clear the headrests from hitting the back window.

It's a PRP bench seat. Nothing fancy but I can measure it tomorrow. They might have drawings online.
 
Mine is a PRP bench also and they made it 6 inches narrower to fit between my tubbed fenders. So they can custom make for you also.

Yep, mine is a few inches narrower to add some room for seat belt retractors on each side.

Scott, do you mean front to back depth?
 
Yep, mine is a few inches narrower to add some room for seat belt retractors on each side.

Scott, do you mean front to back depth?
Correct. I can only get the seat depth or the mounting frame on the website not the depth of the entire seat. I need to know how far it's going to stick out from the back of the cab wall.
 
Correct. I can only get the seat depth or the mounting frame on the website not the depth of the entire seat. I need to know how far it's going to stick out from the back of the cab wall.

Here are some pictures. I let the seat sit flat on its mounting tabs which is close to level with the seat bottom. This is the minimum depth and it comes to 24".





Since mine is bolted close to the floor, I leaned it back a bit so people's legs could rest a bit better on the seat bottom. This angle it's at 28".


Kurt is a dealer and he was super helpful in ordering options,etc. Shipping the bench seat wasn't cheap though.
 
With all the rain the past few weeks, I went and got some nylon fabric to make some seat covers to keep the rain and dust off the seats. Maybe during the holiday break I can get one made.
 
Here are some pictures. I let the seat sit flat on its mounting tabs which is close to level with the seat bottom. This is the minimum depth and it comes to 24".



Since mine is bolted close to the floor, I leaned it back a bit so people's legs could rest a bit better on the seat bottom. This angle it's at 28".


Kurt is a dealer and he was super helpful in ordering options,etc. Shipping the bench seat wasn't cheap though.
Thanks! That's exactly what I needed. I will definitely hit up Kurt for it when I'm ready. If I remember my measurements right, it would be a 64" wide bench. Enough for 3 butts. Or 2 little boy butts and an 80lbs dog butt. :rotfl:
 
Thanks! That's exactly what I needed. I will definitely hit up Kurt for it when I'm ready. If I remember my measurements right, it would be a 64" wide bench. Enough for 3 butts. Or 2 little boy butts and an 80lbs dog butt. :rotfl:

Mine is 42" and is plenty for two adults so you'll be safe with 64".
 
Update 12/27/2015

With all the rain we've been getting here lately, I've been having to haul around a tarp in my truck to keep the seats from getting wet while its parked. Some people at the office like the truck, but hauling out a big blue tarp in the parking lot is a little too unsophisticated.

So rather than buying a soft top just yet, I decided to add to my "fabric"ation skill set.:D

Black ballistic nylon fabric is fairly durable and water resistant. I won't show you the tuition pile I had to accumulate to get these fitting right but it's not as financially painful as DOM even if I didn't have my wife around to tutor me.

The covers are designed to make sure there's always a decent slope for any rainwater to be able to run off easily. There's a drawstring at the bottom to tighten them up but I still need a little clamp type device to snug it up and keep it snugged.

The drivers seat is separate from the passenger so I can easily install and remove just the drivers side when I need to drive it.

Here's kinda how it fits and comes off:


Its a semi-flat felled seam for those familiar with the trade.


I spent some time making a paper template of the panels I'd need. These are tricky because they are fitted to the seat rather than being just a big cover like my tarp was. I couldn't just sew two sheets together on a flat.


And there they are both loosely installed.





I ran a sample of the stuff under my kitchen faucet and it sheds water really nicely. It should perform great but I'll report back once it's actually tested. This also gives me some confidence and skills to venture out into some other fabric related projects in the summertime.
 
Already got one, but it just keeps the sun out and not the water.

Got some rain today and they seemed to hold up fine. No water pooling on them at all. The bikini top keeps 75% of the water out but I would always get a ton in from the sides or the back when there's wind. This seems like a decent solution for a while.
 
Have you considered the drawstring for the bottoms? Like extra insurance invade they sag some?
 
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