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71K5 - BP71K5's Just for fun build

Overview Gallery Discussion
sreidmx said:
Have you considered the drawstring for the bottoms? Like extra insurance invade they sag some?
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There's a drawstring installed on the bottom. I just need to get one of those spring loaded plastic clips that holds the string tight. That'll help tighten them up and keep them from flying away when driving. The tarp I used had to be carefully folded and stowed or it would act like a big sail on the freeway. :eek1:
 
Update 01/13/2016:

For future reference, using polyester fabric would have been a better choice as polyester is "hydrophobic" and does not absorb water, but nylon does absorb water. :doah:

So after all the rain we've got the past couple weeks, I found that any water that does get on it and it allowed to sit for a long time can eventually soak through the fabric. Most of it runs off and into the floor, but not all of it. Nothing like arriving at work looking like I wet the back of my pants.

So I got a can of scotch guard and gave them a good coat and that seems to have done the trick.
 
I've had the wet a $$ before. You know no one thinks u peed yourself but it's always in the back of your mind!!

Good to know on the fabric info.

I'm guessing this is really helping the drought conditions? How much rain have you guys actually had?
 
Bigblue7-2 said:
I've had the wet a $$ before. You know no one thinks u peed yourself but it's always in the back of your mind!!

Good to know on the fabric info.

I'm guessing this is really helping the drought conditions? How much rain have you guys actually had?
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Don't know official waterfall numbers but sounds like the snow is coming down ok up in the sierras (where all the non-winter water comes from), but not nearly enough to make up for years of dryness.
 
We would have plenty of water if we stopped sending it to the South.. :deal:

Oh wait, you're in the South. :D

Progress is looking good anyways, Brian, :waytogo:
 
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Update 01/17/2016:

Anyone know how to read spark plugs? Here's a couple pictures of my #1 plug. Trying to decide if my timing is ok or too far advanced.





And I'll let everyone guess what this was. Slide hammer was the tool to get it out.

 
That plug looks really good to me. Has just that little bit of tan color you're looking for.
 
That's good to hear. I guess all the websites that tell you how to read them are for full throttle racing use. There's supposed to be a color change about halfway up. The ground strap is mostly white so that made me think the timing was too advanced.
 
Where'd that piece come out of? Or will that give too much a hint as to what it was.

Almost looks like the leftover metal part of a bulb.
 
Update 02/23/2016:

Wow, no one guessed the metal chunk was the oil dip stick tube that broke off in the block. That seems like such a long time ago.

Been working on getting the back seat installed along with upgraded seat belts.

I'll let the pictures do most of the talking.


Seat belt buckle support







Retractor bolts onto the removable frame so it can come out along with the seat.




Then needed a cage attachment point for the shoulder harness portion.


These seat belts were custom made so the shoulder point can unsnap easily so the whole seat can come out in one piece. It's even highway legal.




The snap hooks use an eyebolt from summit rated for seat belt use.


Still have to wrap up holding the seat down into the bed without having to break out any tools but that will be a while. I'm just using grade 8 bolts right now to secure it in the bed until I have time to get into that. The whole family can go for a drive with me now.
 
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Update 04/03/2016

Received my new piece of old iron. Circa 1938





This is the Cadillac of machine for the era and is supposed to be capable of heavy duty operation on materials that can keep the rain and sun off my head. Already started practicing on some marine vinyl.

 
Update 04/23/2016: Few steps forward, lots of steps back this week.

You may be able to tell I'm moving in the direction of fabricating my own soft top. I've been practicing templating some pieces to recreate the Bimini top I was using that has started to fail due to UV rays on the threads. There's nothing worth showing of those, but I quickly realized I needed to construct a nicer windshield header bracket for whatever top I wanted to use.

So after a little cad work, some paper prints to make sure it was accurate, some more adjustments, and a bit of cash to a guy with a laser cutter, I got a new one of these.


The one on the right is the original I cut out by hand and hammered into shape. The new one is on the left, perfectly symmetrical, with the correct shape to contour around the windshield top much better than my original. They are both made from 1/8" aluminum so I can leave them unpainted and rust won't be an issue.



In the process of getting that designed, I realized my windshield frame has a bit of rust on the mounting holes and one of the nuts has broken through. Argh, here's where I start stepping backwards.



Broke out the grinder with a paint stripping disc and found another repair hiding under some bondo.






Lots of filler and seam sealer on the drip rail. Since I wanted to weld up the holes from the old STC softtop bracket, I had to remove all the paint and filler and see what I was up against.

In reality, I thought it'd be worse. There's obviously rust on the inside of the frame, but not other weird previous owner repairs that I can find. I'm leaning towards trying to derust as much as I can and then spray a good converter on the inside to slow the corrosion down. I still need to remove and replace the windshield, but the frame looks salvageable.





Did find one broken nut insert on the passenger side. You can kind of see it here.



Since I want to sit on the decision about repairing/replacing the windshield frame for a few days, I thought I'd start forming the soft top bracket. It's also easier to form it now while the windshield frame it still intact.

I found some aluminum vise block blanks online, drilled the appropriate mounting holes, and bolted them up. These are so I can safely clamp that long piece of aluminum without galling it while I'm forming the lip on the front that holds the fabric top.



Since the bracket had a slight arc across the front edge, I cut the blocks down to a similar arc that would let me form the lip cleanly.





I was able to bend about 12" of the bracket with a sledge and a block of wood before the leverage on those aluminum locks overcame the bolts holding them to the vise. Game over I thought.

Plan B below: actually works better than plan A.




That's the underside, you can see how clean the bend line is and the slight arc the bend needs to follow. If GM made flat windshields in 1971, this would be a lot easier.




This is where I left it tonight. It matches really well with the windshield header. I just need to form the ends which are a different arc. The bend came out much cleaner than my original.

 
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