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'72 Blazer Gas Filler neck Assembly

Big Blzn

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Just what it says. Looking to get the complete assembly from where the gas cap mounts to where the return and fill soft lines connect. THe metal parts that go through the body to below the floor pan. Anyone?
 
Just what it says. Looking to get the complete assembly from where the gas cap mounts to where the return and fill soft lines connect. THe metal parts that go through the body to below the floor pan. Anyone?

Hoby....saw this over on 67-72chevytrucks --> LINK
 
I might have a spare. Can check later.

If you have one let me know. If yours is not in the best condition I may still be able to work with it as i can graft the top/part that the gas cap attaches to. My lower half to your good upper half. Thanks.
 
Damage like that is why I went with a flush mount gas lid. Also after I did damage the left rear corner, I used kids blow up sport balls to push the dents out the best I could, The football worked well. Just deflate them have a compressor hooked up with and inflate needle attached the ball and shove the flat ball where you want it and inflate, then let air back out and move around and repeat as needed. May not get all of it out but did a good job on mine.
 
Damage like that is why I went with a flush mount gas lid. Also after I did damage the left rear corner, I used kids blow up sport balls to push the dents out the best I could, The football worked well. Just deflate them have a compressor hooked up with and inflate needle attached the ball and shove the flat ball where you want it and inflate, then let air back out and move around and repeat as needed. May not get all of it out but did a good job on mine.


The inflated ball is a great idea. I thought about that on the way home from the trails and the promptly forgot about it.:doah: I need to try that. not big dents about 8" across and no metal kinks. looks like someone punched the area several times with the palm of their hand. Of course good scratches in the dent's paint.

Hell, I even thought about cutting access holes into the sheet metal from the inner bed wall to see if I could push them back out.

Is the sheet metal gauge on or first gens thicker than late model trucks?
 
This is what I got. I'll be using the best one obviously, but they are all decent. The one on the left is the one I'll probably use. There is one there that's already cut in half.

100_3016.jpg


The one on the right is the one cut in half I believe.
100_3017.jpg


If one interests you, make me an offer. The one of the left is probably one one I will be using.
 
This is what I got. I'll be using the best one obviously, but they are all decent. The one on the left is the one I'll probably use. There is one there that's already cut in half.

100_3016.jpg


The one on the right is the one cut in half I believe.
100_3017.jpg


If one interests you, make me an offer. The one of the left is probably one one I will be using.

Won't be able to see the pic 'til I get home to my PC. Work doesn't let me see a lot of pics on this site. Thanks for posting up and I'll get back to you tonight or tomorrow AM.:D
 
Damage like that is why I went with a flush mount gas lid. Also after I did damage the left rear corner, I used kids blow up sport balls to push the dents out the best I could, The football worked well. Just deflate them have a compressor hooked up with and inflate needle attached the ball and shove the flat ball where you want it and inflate, then let air back out and move around and repeat as needed. May not get all of it out but did a good job on mine.

How did yo udo the flush mount lid. I see that one of the chevy parts houses in Socal has a kit to do one but they want about $130 for theirs. Did you fab it up yourself? Can you take some pics for me? I'd be interested.

My main concern in the near future with the dents and the filler neck is that I don't want to have do do any major body work on the rig right now and run around town with what looks like patch panels and primer all over the left rear quarter panel until I do all the rust repair, etc and repaint the blazer is 3-4 years.

Also, I got started on the football deal to push the dents out. It's a tight fit to get the ball up inside to where the dents are. I may have to take off the left inner fender well to get a better shot at the placement of the ball/dents.
 
its. the one for a Ford http://www.solidbydesign.com/sbd/FuelDoors.aspx

They are made my amp research. I had the original filled in and t6his one put in a little lower and to the rear on the flat part. They used parts from a Tahoe to make it work.

I am looking for pics. If I can't fine any I will take some new ones.
 
Also look at my photo gallery end of page 3. The body shop took the area of the tahoe that had the depressed area for the fuel filler door and fabbed it into the body of the jimmy and then fabbed up a steel ring for the door frame to bolt to and used the filler neck and gas cap from the tahoe and made it work with my tank.

Only complaint is that it doesn't take fuel very quickly at the gas station.

P1040397.JPG

P1040952_800x800.JPG
 
The middle one or the other complete unit would be great. How does $25 sound? Let me know. Thanks.
Hoby
 

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