Ok so i bought a 72 blazer today and the pass door is stuck shut any ideas on how to open it Thanks Denny
CK5
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72 blazer
- Thread starter dheavychevy38
- Start date
Unlock the door
Push in the button on the outside of the door
Lift firmly as you also pull the door outward
My guess is that the striker plate alignment is wacked and it's just wedged in there too hard. My driver's door used to stick all the time, and I'd just kick it hard at the bottom to free it up. I doubt you want to use that method.
Once it's open, you'll need to look for fresh scrapes in the paint as a giveaway to where the door is rubbing, then mess around with body mount shims and/or hinge adjustments to get it right again.
Push in the button on the outside of the door
Lift firmly as you also pull the door outward
My guess is that the striker plate alignment is wacked and it's just wedged in there too hard. My driver's door used to stick all the time, and I'd just kick it hard at the bottom to free it up. I doubt you want to use that method.
Once it's open, you'll need to look for fresh scrapes in the paint as a giveaway to where the door is rubbing, then mess around with body mount shims and/or hinge adjustments to get it right again.
I unlocked it then pushed the button and yanked like hell no dice so i got in side and turned handle and kicked nothin either. This door has not been opened since 95 in fact the whole truck has done nothing but sit since 95
Sorry for the big pic
Yukon Jack
1/2 ton status
My passenger door was very difficult to open until I adjusted the body mount that is to the rear of the front seats. It still takes a pretty good push/pull to get it open. On K5's there is what I will call a strike pad on the door and on the tub of the K5 that rest against each other when the door is closed. I'm guessing yours has rusted together just enough to be causing your problem.
I'd first get a friend and have one of you push from the inside and one pull from the outside. I found before I adjusted my body mounts that if I gave the door a fairly hard open handed hit just below the door lock button that would usually pop it open. Maybe try that while one of you pulls on the door. If that doesn't work, I guess loose up the body mount behind the passenger seat and in the area where the passenger feet are and then get a block of wood and a floor jack and see if raising the body up just a little will help. Might have to try that with the jack in various locations to see if you can eliminate the bind.
Good luck!
I'd first get a friend and have one of you push from the inside and one pull from the outside. I found before I adjusted my body mounts that if I gave the door a fairly hard open handed hit just below the door lock button that would usually pop it open. Maybe try that while one of you pulls on the door. If that doesn't work, I guess loose up the body mount behind the passenger seat and in the area where the passenger feet are and then get a block of wood and a floor jack and see if raising the body up just a little will help. Might have to try that with the jack in various locations to see if you can eliminate the bind.
Good luck!
90'K5
1/2 ton status
Are you sure the handle is attached or even moving the latch so it can let go of the striker??
It feels that way like it is working just stuck. Maybe i should hook up the excavator to it 
j/k
j/k
Ok just went and tried and the yes you can feel resistance on the button or the handle when you operate them but can't get the door to move. I am going to try spraying down with some penetrateing oil and then trying it again. I will also bring the jack and a board to try and move the body around.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
If you remove the inner door panel (4 screws at the bottom on 71, but I think the design changed in 72) you can access the locking mechanism to check if it's hooked up.
Ya thats my next step to try. Thanks guys Ill let you know what happens
Well got her open. The po used twine and stuffed a pile of it in the striker area cause the latch doesnt work so he just jammed it shut
Now on to some rocker box repair and floor repair.
Now on to some rocker box repair and floor repair.
Take your time, and read as much as you can first... You are about to open a big can of worms (when it comes to 1st Gens, the rust is ALWAYS worse than it initially looked!)
I've got a lot of good photos in the "Might As Well" thread showing my rust issues and repairs... if you have questions, just ask. We'll be here for you!
Always, always goes deeper than you might think.
Pic one looks almost solid...pic 2 means keep digging.
Well here are some shots of what im up against
Yukon Jack
1/2 ton status
Yikes! Makes me really appreciate the fact that my K5 doesn't have a ton of rust!
Ya thats the down side to liven in the midwest. Question for you first gen gurus can i cut out the rockerboxes and mae something of my own for support like some 1/2 or 1 inch tube and build my own braces out of those?
All depends on how stock you want it to look.
I devised a very simple/quick yet effect alternative but it's not what I'd call attractive.
Step 1:
Cut out everything
Step 2:
Horizontal piece of DOM on floorboard - weld
Step 3:
Additional bracing tying in cage, firewall and kick panel.
No flex, no how.
bp71k5
3/4 ton status
Since they look pretty trashed already, it may not make a difference but if you do cur out everything, keep the top and doors on as long as possible to make sure it doesn't sag.
Leaving the top on is a good idea but the doors induce the sag, pull em until you need em again to line up the outer rockers.
Do take measurements before you dig in, knowing your door opening measurements will really help later on.
