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72 Jimmy

Abusfullofnuns

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You need to start a build thread in the driveway section. We are all going to be interested to follow along. You’ll get a lot more traffic there than in the body shop section.

Jimmy looks like a solid start for a project. Good luck.
 

Jimmywood

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You need to start a build thread in the driveway section. We are all going to be interested to follow along. You’ll get a lot more traffic there than in the body shop section.

Jimmy looks like a solid start for a project. Good luck.

Thanks, appreciate the feedback
 

Jimmywood

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By the way, I think I can save the front fenders, just need to replace the inners on both sides. I do need some help with the LMC catalog. I don’t see a “firewall” piece so I’m guessing I’m going to need many of the parts on the cab repair panels to make up the firewall and pillar replacement.
 

bigblock72

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By the way, I think I can save the front fenders, just need to replace the inners on both sides. I do need some help with the LMC catalog. I don’t see a “firewall” piece so I’m guessing I’m going to need many of the parts on the cab repair panels to make up the firewall and pillar replacement.


Try other places besides LMC. LMC used to be ok but they pretty much suck anymore.
I've had good luck with Classic and they do specials all the time. https://www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/chevrolet/truck/parts/cx4867.html
Brothers truck parts is pretty decent. https://www.brotherstrucks.com/67-72-COMPLETE-FIREWALL/productinfo/CFW6772/69-72/
Spend some time on the internet and you'll be surprised how much money you can save. It is also a good idea to buy all of your large pieces at once to save on the shipping bill.
 

CK5

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Cool build, converted it to a build for you.
 

Jimmywood

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Try other places besides LMC. LMC used to be ok but they pretty much suck anymore.
I've had good luck with Classic and they do specials all the time. https://www.classicindustries.com/product/all-years/chevrolet/truck/parts/cx4867.html
Brothers truck parts is pretty decent. https://www.brotherstrucks.com/67-72-COMPLETE-FIREWALL/productinfo/CFW6772/69-72/
Spend some time on the internet and you'll be surprised how much money you can save. It is also a good idea to buy all of your large pieces at once to save on the shipping bill.

Thanks, that looks great (Brothers).
 

Jimmywood

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Got some more work done today, exposing more firewall/cab issues. Thinking about buying all new floor pan and everything forward to the firewall. Any thoughts?

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Jimmywood

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Got a bit more work accomplished today, going to pull the motor next and start the cab/firewall rebuild thereafter.

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Jimmywood

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I’ve got a question about bracing the door frame area when all of the firewall, cab, floorpan and pillars are eventually coming out. Should I brace the hinge side to the latch side and then remove and replace all but the pillars and then piece those back after all else has been replaced?
 

Jimmywood

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You need to start a build thread in the driveway section. We are all going to be interested to follow along. You’ll get a lot more traffic there than in the body shop section.

Jimmy looks like a solid start for a project. Good luck.
I’ve posted a couple of questions on the build page and I’m not getting any replies or comments, any thoughts on whether I pissed everyone off or if my posts are not going through?
 

Abusfullofnuns

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You may have to post specific questions to new threads in the garage section to get good traffic. As your build gets more views and posts, more folks will check in on a regular basis. It helps if you modify your title slightly to include the phase you are in or questions that need addressing. Such as, “72 Jimmywood Build (Struggling with disassembly)” or whatever the issue is.

The body shop section doesn’t get a lot of traffic, but still may be appropriate for your body questions.
 

CK5

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toomany

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More bracing is always better, as is getting some good measurements before you starting ripping things off.

Going from the hinges to the B-pillars is the best way to brace that opening. Putting the brace in up at the upper hinge and running it straight across gives you some head room to work. If you are planning on taking out the entire front floor like I did, expect the firewall to fall forward and move around a bunch...no matter how you brace it. Taking out the cab floor, you will probably be loosing the front body mounts.

Knowing that I was replacing everything, I basically cut the truck in two and started from the firewall and worked my way back. Got the front floor, step up panel, rear floor and new bedsides in before I worried about the door openings. Biggest problem I had with this was getting the lined back up with the front floor at the correct height. If I were to do it again, I'd brace the door openings, support the firewall (I used a chainfall from the ceiling) and the do only the front part.

If doing an entire cab floor as one piece you will have to bend/pry/twist/beat it in and out of position. The lower A-pillars, depending on how you have it supported, will want to move in or out. Mine came in a little so that made getting the new floor out to prep the edges for welding more difficult. I also replaced both lower A-pillars when the floor was missing. Also, if using the complete floor w/braces, you will need to trim about 7'' off the back side. That panel is made for a pickup. There is a K5 one being produced, but I don't know anyone who has it in stock or has used it yet. I had to go with the low hump version as well because the high hump was out of stock everywhere I looked.

Surprisingly, my bedsides didn't move hardly any at all. Even now, the new ones are only held in with a couple bolts along the floor and at the B-pillar. Must just be the design of them but they are real solid for how they mount. While not a bad idea to brace, I think more of a triangulated approach would be best (bedside to middle of floor rather than across to each other).

Having the tailgate and top on will help a ton, more so for the top. Top will keep the windshield where it needs to be, the bedsides apart and help with door openings. Take some measurements now and write them down (or post them here) so you have something to go back to. Don't be shocked if you have to move things either. My firewall had to come back a good 1" for my door opening to be correct.

Working from the outside in will also help. The outer rockers are basically just covers and can get tacked on where needed, and are probably easiest to "eyeball align" rather than measure because they join so many panels together (door, fender, B-pillar) I'm going to tackle those after the rocker boxes are in, front clip hung and doors aligned.

Your tub looks to be in much better shape than mine. With only your firewall looking worse, unless there is a bunch of hidden rust and bondo hiding under the paint.
 
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