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'72 k5 wont crank, not battery, not solenoid now what?

D

dr1553

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Lake Jackson, Texas
Hello,

I tried to start my 72 K5 yesterday and nothing happened. Lights come on, horn honks, ext. but no cranking. I checked the battery and even tried to jump it, nothing. I dropped the starter and installed a new solenoid, nothing. Now I dont know what to try next. Should I check the ignition switch or the neutral start switch? Anything else I should be looking for? How do I check the ignition switch and neutral start switch if I need to?

Thanks for the help!

David
 
bust out the voltmeter. 12.4 volts or higher at the battery means its good.
no click at the starter when you turn the key eh? no click= no voltage to the S terminal!
its just your purple wire going from the ignition switch down to the S terminal on the starter.
Get a test light or voltmeter and start tracing that wire. if it has voltage coming out the back of the ignition switch when you turn it to the crank position then you know the ignition switch is good, and you better start tracing that wire through the neutral safety switch like you said, and then down to the starter.

If you really need to, you can leave the truck in park or neutral with the ebrake on, turn the key to the run position, and then get under there with a screwdriver and arc across the Battery cable connection to the s terminal and it should start right up.
 
Ryan,

I just had the starter tested and its good so its not the starter/solenoid.

If I do arc the battery to s terminal and it works then what does that mean? Does jumping the battery to the s terminal just bypass everything and make it start? I have a feeling its the ignition or the neutral switch because the blazer has been sitting outside without a top for a few years. I took the hard top off and found out that I couldnt get it back on due to sagging mid section. The 4 bolt area at the rocker box is completely gone. But thats a prob for another post. I want to get the thing started first.

Thanks,
David
 
Check the neutral saftey switch mounted low on the steering column.
You can bypass it temp. by useing a jumper wire to jump between the purple wires that connect to the neutral safety switch.
 
check the fusible link on the fire wall too. i had the same problem a while back(lights worked etc...) and found a fusible link that had burned up. just a thought. good luck.
 
dr1553 said:
Ryan,

I just had the starter tested and its good so its not the starter/solenoid.

If I do arc the battery to s terminal and it works then what does that mean? Does jumping the battery to the s terminal just bypass everything and make it start? I have a feeling its the ignition or the neutral switch because the blazer has been sitting outside without a top for a few years. I took the hard top off and found out that I couldnt get it back on due to sagging mid section. The 4 bolt area at the rocker box is completely gone. But thats a prob for another post. I want to get the thing started first.

Thanks,
David
Click to expand...
If the power lead from your battery to your starter is not getting voltage then the solenoid will not kick out. Check that wire with a voltmeter...and make sure there's not any inline fuses. I had a similar problem before and and it was a factory inline fuse.
 
Everyone,

Thanks for the help so far. I put a jumper wire in from the battery terminal to the s terminal and it cranked so its getting power to the starter.

I didnt have time to look for fuses or check the ignition or neutral start switch yet. Maybe tomorrow. I'll keep messing with it. Arent old trucks fun!

David
 
I would go get an ignition switch. They arent very expensive. Last one I got was less than 10 bucks. You will have good tight fitting keys and it might just fix the problem.
 
My key looks more like a tiny worn out butter knife than a key. There are no sharp edges on it at all. It doesnt look like it would work the tumblers anymore but it does!

Can an ignition switch be picked up at a regular auto store? Napa, Orielly, ect.? I guess it wouldnt hurt to change it anyways. Then I would have more than one key. Its not hard to change the switch is it? I wouldnt think so but I havent looked at it yet.
 
BobK

Where exactly is the neutral safety switch and how do I get at it? Is it where the shifter enters the column?

David
 
you mean the key cylinder, the ignition switch is what starts it and is located on top of the collum and activated by a rod from the key cylinder.
 
The neutral safty switch is on the steering column,just before it passes through the firewall.
It's up on top of the column,a little hard to see from below but you should be able to feel it no problem.
 
Ignition switch can be obtained at most parts stores. They may have to order but can usually obtain in a day or two.

there are two parts: The ignition lock cylinder which is where the key fits in and you get two new keys with it. 2nd part is Ignition switch which is what the lock cylinder fits into and the wires plug into on the backside of the dash.

You can also get them from LMC. www.LMCtruck.com

Ignition lock cylinder is part # 36-0666 cost is $6.95

Ignition switch is part # 36-0646 cost is $16.95

You can also call them at 1-800-562-8782.

I got my last one at CarQuest auto parts.

If you search in the first gen section several posts about it. Pretty basic only tricky thing is to get the lock cylinder to release you need to put a paperclip or small wire in the little hole on the front and push in on a spring loaded button and if I remember correctly then you turn back to accessory and the lock cylinder will pop out the front. The big ring around the outside has notches in it and it unscrews from the front of the ignition switch. Once you unscrew that you can take the whole thing out the back and unplug the wires. Good luck and hope this solves the problem. :D
 
If the key turns your should be o.k. with that part. As someone already said, check the neutral safety switch. Also if there was a alarm on the truck look for a selenoid that would kill the starter power. :confused: :confused: :confused: :confused:
 
Sorry for digging this old post up but I just wanted everyone to know it was the neutral safety switch.

I just finally fixed it today. I took the connector with the two purple wires off the safety switch and put in a jumper wire. It cranked and fired right up! It hasn't run since Sept. '05 and it fired up like it just ran yesterday! Sometimes these old trucks amaze me.

I'm going to go ahead and put a new switch in there and I'm back in business.

I just realized....the gas thats in that tank probably cost less than half of what gas costs now. Wish I had more of that stuff.
 
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