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74 build advice

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Smokeyk5

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Between heaven and hell, CO
So I'm looking to start fixing up my Jimmy and was looking for some input in regards to what should be done. As the truck is now it's stock suspension, SBC 350, turbo 350, NP203 w/ conversion kit and selectable hubs, 12 bolt rear and 33's. The overall goal of the truck is to be reliable, easy to work on and haul camping gear up to the mountains get just about anywhere to camp and make it home, I will not be rock climbing or be doing any extreme four wheeling, this isn't my daily driver just mountain driver. So I'm not looking for elaborate setup's or anything major, I would also like to keep it relativity cheap. One major thing to consider is I live in Colorado so I have major elevation gain when fourwheeling. So my still questions areas are trans, t-case, TBI or carb and 1/2 axle or 3/4 ton, plus any other input. Remember cheap, simple and reliable. My idea for what to be done is as follows

1. Engine: 433 or 383 stroker, leaning more towards 433, but think it maybe overkill for 1/2 axles, with a Holley truck avenger, electric fuel pump, upgraded ignition system, worked heads and more aggressive cam (I'm debating on doing a TBI swap due to elevation, but I love the simplicity and reliability of carbs and that is a major point of my goal for this truck, reliable and simple)

2. Trans: Turbo 400 or 700R4, I'm leaning more towards turbo 400

3. T case: Possible doubler or just keeping the NP203, I think a doubler is a little excessive especially if i leave the 1/2 axles and it really would be overkill for what I'm wanting

4. Axle: Keep stock 12 bolt rear and front, upgrade with cro-mo axle shafts 4.56 gears, and Detroit locker in rear Trutrac up front, obviously rebuild them

5.Tires: 35's mudders, I plan on hacking the heck out of the fenders plus the lift

6. Suspension: ORD shackle flip in rear w/ new springs F/R for 4" lift total, 1' body lift also would like to add high steer kit from ORD with steering brace

7. Warn winch

8. On board air system, probably a VIAIR constant duty

Other things will be body work, roll cage, tools and beer cooler, but those I'm good on my own for

Appreciate any advice! :waytogo:
 
350tbi, th350, np203, 4.11's, lock the 12bolt w/chromemoly axles, leave the front open, 35" tires, 4" shackle flip, 4"front easyride springs, 1" zero rate front & rear, 1" body lift, cut to fit tires, high steer is a plus but not necessary or cheap, good bumpers front and rear, winch in the front, OBA, and a proper roll cage tied to the frame. This is a must in my book for a full top convertible.

Now that would make a nice camping weekender type truck!
 
ChrisPerry said:
and a proper roll cage tied to the frame. This is a must in my book for a full top convertible.
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I've always kind of worried about this with my 1974, especially if driven at Interstate speeds...I wonder what the specs and stats are for the factory bar? Never seen one roll...would like to keep factory look yet have it attached to the frame.
 
Cheap simple and reliable huh, first off ditch the motor plans, dead stock 6.0, if not a decent rebuild on a tbi 350.

Only 35s get a 6 lug sf 14 bolt out of a newer truck, stock front axle, if your not crawling no need for a doubler put a 700 and a 241 in it

Suspension 4" front springs with an ez inch better shackles in front, rear 6" flip
 
blazinzuk said:
Cheap simple and reliable huh, first off ditch the motor plans, dead stock 6.0, if not a decent rebuild on a tbi 350.

Only 35s get a 6 lug sf 14 bolt out of a newer truck, stock front axle, if your not crawling no need for a doubler put a 700 and a 241 in it

Suspension 4" front springs with an ez inch better shackles in front, rear 6" flip
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This.

Either a 5.3 or 6.0 ls motor.


go the sf 14b route and regear and go with it
 
IF agree with most of what the guys said.

What is wrong with the 350 in the truck now? I am running my original motor, runs like a champ. I have a TBI set up for it. It will not win any races but it scoots down the road just fine for me. There is nothing cheaper then what you already have. A good solid built 350 will take you a long way. :thumb:
 
Nothing majorly wrong with the truck now, other than rust, just in need of some love and proper equipment. Can someone give a better explanation of why to get a 14 bolt? It's heavier, bigger and from what I've read most people are fine with a good set of built 1/2 axles, especially with just 35's. Like I said I'm not gonna be boulder hopping with it.
 
Smokeyk5 said:
Nothing majorly wrong with the truck now, other than rust, just in need of some love and proper equipment. Can someone give a better explanation of why to get a 14 bolt? It's heavier, bigger and from what I've read most people are fine with a good set of built 1/2 axles, especially with just 35's. Like I said I'm not gonna be boulder hopping with it.
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It's bullet proof in your application and might have deep enough gears that you won't have to spend money re-gearing it.


With a locker and 35's, the 12 bolt isn't bullet proof by any stretch. Also, they don't make chromoly rear shafts for 12 bolts, just 1541H which is ~10-15% better than stock. If you break a rear axle shaft the tire will fall off and you're not going anywhere until it's fixed, that's why most guys go with at least the strong rear axle.
 
Smokeyk5 said:
Nothing majorly wrong with the truck now, other than rust, just in need of some love and proper equipment. Can someone give a better explanation of why to get a 14 bolt? It's heavier, bigger and from what I've read most people are fine with a good set of built 1/2 axles, especially with just 35's. Like I said I'm not gonna be boulder hopping with it.
Click to expand...


Because a 14 bolt with disk upgrade is marginal heavier than a 12 bolt and a million times stronger. my suggestion is to grab a set of 3/4 ton axles that are geared alike and mod the rear for disk brakes. you have to remember that stock a blazer came with tiny little tires. with an open diff rear breakage is rare. its once you use a locker and put some real traction down. that you get into trouble. all it takes is a slick trail with a quick spin of the tires and suddenly they grab traction and snap.


speaking of. if you dont have them yet get lockers.
 
Note these are my opinions. Take them as you will

1. Engine: 433 or 383 stroker, leaning more towards 433, but think it maybe overkill for 1/2 axles, with a Holley truck avenger, electric fuel pump, upgraded ignition system, worked heads and more aggressive cam (I'm debating on doing a TBI swap due to elevation, but I love the simplicity and reliability of carbs and that is a major point of my goal for this truck, reliable and simple)

Modded engines are not simple and they sometimes are not reliable at all. The closer to stock you stick the better. Hence the 6.0 suggestion. Factory fuel injection, they have plenty of power, are dead reliable.

Carbs are simple but i do not think you could say they are more reliable than fuel injection. In fact if you are relying on your carb to keep your truck running, then they are down right unreliable. I have wheeled both a carb and fuel injection and will never wheel a carbed truck again, even for a mild trail rig



2. Trans: Turbo 400 or 700R4, I'm leaning more towards turbo 400

Why? Cause everyone says its stronger, they also mention heavier, takes more power to run, clutches are dang near the same size as a 700.

700 has a deep first gear and overdrive, on a truck with your mentioned plans I wouldn't even consider a 400 700s are plenty strong.

3. T case: Possible doubler or just keeping the NP203, I think a doubler is a little excessive especially if i leave the 1/2 axles and it really would be overkill for what I'm wanting

Like I said a 241 have to find one from an 89 to hook up to the speedo but coupled with a 700, you really won't have any need for a doubler at all. To make it strong as possible a SYE will work well but isn't needed.

4. Axle: Keep stock 12 bolt rear and front, upgrade with cro-mo axle shafts 4.56 gears, and Detroit locker in rear Trutrac up front, obviously rebuild them

It kind of depends on what you can find. I would not use the 12 bolt at all. Its either find a 9" a Chrysler 9.25 or a SF 14b. The full float 14 bolt is just a big heavy pig that you don't need

5.Tires: 35's mudders, I plan on hacking the heck out of the fenders plus the lift

6. Suspension: ORD shackle flip in rear w/ new springs F/R for 4" lift total, 1' body lift also would like to add high steer kit from ORD with steering brace

Instead of a body lift get zero rates or ez inches (diy4xs version) that will allow you to move the axle forward to help with clearance

7. Warn winch

8. On board air system, probably a VIAIR constant duty

This sounds pretty good

Other things will be body work, roll cage, tools and beer cooler, but those I'm good on my own for

Sounds like a fun build, pretty much what I am doing to my 89 overall. But I will never say it won't do this or that, its going to be a do everything truck. I don't plan to beat it like my crawler but I plan for it to be able to get close enough to my crawler to haul it out if I really mess up
 
Ok, thanks for the input everyone. With the sf 14b are those 6 lug or 8? Does anyone have any links or info about TBI swaps? Would it be more beneficial to get a used one from a donor or look into a complete system from holley?

Thanks
 
Smokeyk5 said:
As the truck is now it's stock suspension, SBC 350, turbo 350, NP203 w/ conversion kit and selectable hubs, 12 bolt rear and 33's. The overall goal of the truck is to be reliable, easy to work on and haul camping gear up to the mountains get just about anywhere to camp and make it home, I will not be rock climbing or be doing any extreme four wheeling, this isn't my daily driver just mountain driver.
Click to expand...
I would run it as is for awhile to determine if it currently meets your needs.

Do you have any pictures?
 
One thing I haven't seen mentioned is that factory FI is altitude compensating. In Colorado that would be a huge benefit to you...
 
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