'74 K5 D44 & 14 Bolt in progress (Rear Shocks/Springs & Sway Bar)

[CharlieC]

After having the axles for almost 6 years, I finally got around to doing the swap on my '74 K5. Front was pretty straightforward. I did install a pair of DIY4X's Easy Inch blocks to shift the axle ahead 1" and combined with the 1" lift, should bring my tire rubbing to a final close. The 1" shift forward did present a problem for the upper sway bar drop brackets (I have 4" lift springs) I have, they look like Tuff Country's. There's not enough adjustability left to slide it enough to attach. Anyone else have to solve for this?

Getting ready to swap the rear out for the 14B. Given I raised the front an inch, I'm back to the K10/K5 squat in the rear. Since I have to weld on new shock brackets, I figure now is the time to do something different if there's a reason. Primarily for me, it would be trying to improve ride quality. I'm going to install some Tuff Country EZ Ride springs to replace my 4" block. Any recommendations on changing the rear shock mounting location?

Since I have to also weld on new spring perches, I guess the easy way to do it would be measure center to center on current springs, mark the spacing, level the new perches with the existing and weld 'em up?

Lastly, any recommendation on shocks if I'm after ride quality not off-road performance.

Thanks
Charlie

 

[cheavyk10]

If your 14 bolt came out of a 3/4 ton you have the same spring perch width and the shocks will bolt right up. Pull out the tape measure and check before you cut off them brackets. This is assuming you have an 8 lug 14 bolt out of a square body either full float or semi float. If your 14 bolt full float came out of a one ton yes you will have to move the perches and shock brackets.

 

[formercruiserhead]

You can also do a shackle flip instead of replacing the springs. You can dial in the height with anothe zero rate or longer shackles in the rear. Also if you are looking at cutting perches off you can set your pinion angle and not need any shims.

 

[CharlieC]

I did measure my springs and the 14B perches need to come off. It's a real b*tch of job using a plasma cutter to do the job of an oxy/acet torch. I thought I was just going to cut two welds on each perch end, NOT! Yes, on using the new perches to set pinion angle. Do I still use a 4' up angle?

I ordered some Nitro shocks from Superlift. Today it has an add-a-leaf and a 3" block. I have a DIY4X Shackle Flip n Switch kit to install and I'm going to order some 2" Tuff Country EZ Ride springs. I'll be able to get rid of the blocks and improve my ride getting rid of the add-a-leaf. The u-bolts are plenty long if I need to add a smaller block when I'm done.

Thanks
Charlie

 

[formercruiserhead]

There is no "set it to this angle" spec. What drive shaft and transfercase do you have? Is it single ujojnt at each end? Or double cardan at one end and single at the other. It makes a difference. Mine was about 5" of lift and the angle for the rear shaft was way too steep to run on the road. I wanted to run down the highway with no vibrations. I ended up doing a slip yoke eliminator with a 1350 double cardan driveshaft and rolled the diff up so there was no angle at the diff end. I used ruffstuff perches so set it where I wanted. It is more expensive but I can run at 80mph with military 37s with no issues.

 

[83ChevyK5Blazer]

Ditch the sway bar or add ORD disconnects to give the bar more adjustability.
Bilstien shocks give the best ride for not that much money.

 

[CharlieC]

There is no "set it to this angle" spec. What drive shaft and transfercase do you have? Is it single ujojnt at each end? Or double cardan at one end and single at the other. It makes a difference. Mine was about 5" of lift and the angle for the rear shaft was way too steep to run on the road. I wanted to run down the highway with no vibrations. I ended up doing a slip yoke eliminator with a 1350 double cardan driveshaft and rolled the diff up so there was no angle at the diff end. I used ruffstuff perches so set it where I wanted. It is more expensive but I can run at 80mph with military 37s with no issues.

Thanks for the info, this was very helpful and new to me. I have the original NP203 TC. I didn't realize with a CV joint, you can set the pinion angle in line with the driveshaft. With standard U-Joints that was always a big no-no.

I think I'm in business with a yoke like this and a double cardan joint like this.

Any ideas on why Denny's says their doble cardan joint shafts max out at 4" lift?

Thanks
Charlie

 

[CharlieC]

Ditch the sway bar or add ORD disconnects to give the bar more adjustability.
Bilstien shocks give the best ride for not that much money.

Thanks, but the ride from La. to Tx. is short, the Skyjackers were delivered today. I was going to modify the existing drop brackets I have for the sway bar to accomodate the Easy Inch forward shift. Given it's mostly a road king (some minor off-road use hunting) wouldn't it help with some stability? A lifted, leaf sprung K5 with 35x15.5" TSL/SX's isn't the most stable thing around.

Thanks
Charlie

 

[formercruiserhead]

Thanks for the info, this was very helpful and new to me. I have the original NP203 TC. I didn't realize with a CV joint, you can set the pinion angle in line with the driveshaft. With standard U-Joints that was always a big no-no.

I think I'm in business with a yoke like this and a double cardan joint like this.

Any ideas on why Denny's says their doble cardan joint shafts max out at 4" lift?

Thanks
Charlie

You should be able to do what I described with that shaft if it is long enough.

 

[jimmyleetn]

Just call Denny's. I placed an order last week and actually talked to Denny when I called. He was super helpful. There's a shim calculator for CV shafts on the Tom Woods website. You could get your DS from there too. Both are superb companies.