75 K5 Rocker Boxes?

[ricrok]

I'm digging in and starting to work on my 75 and one of the first things that I need to do is return the rigidity to the body in the form of rocker boxes. I have this pic that I believe is accurate for 73-75 but I've been unable to find new ones or even any other pictures of old ones. Can anybody with one verify if these look right or not? My plan is either to weld up some new ones out of some sheet metal or build a more substantial set out of some 2x2 angle iron instead. I don't plan on much off road with it so the rock sliders in place of the rockers isn't an option for me. Any ideas, tips, or comments are appreciated.

Rick

 

[blazer74]

Yes those are correct 73-75

 

[blazinzuk]

I don't recollect anyone making them. If I were doing new ones I would make them larger smoother and thicker. I thought about it alot when I had my 73. IMHO the more structure you can get down there the better

 

[ricrok]

Yes those are correct 73-75

Awesome, glad I have something to look at as template.

I don't recollect anyone making them. If I were doing new ones I would make them larger smoother and thicker. I thought about it alot when I had my 73. IMHO the more structure you can get down there the better

Yea from what I could find somebody made them for a few years but stopped quite a while back. I plan on either using some heavy sheet metal or as I said some 2x2 angle....and the more that I think about it, probably add in some sheet metal to that as well.

Do you guys think that some 2x2x1/8 with some 12ga sheet added in would be the ticket for not having to worry about them again?

 

[blazer74]

Mine were completely rotted in places to the point of no repair.
I was able to retain the front and rear sections.
I used 1 inch square tubing to rebuild the structure between the front and rear sections. I have no flex issues but I don't rock crawl or abuse the truck in any harsh way.
You will need to support the body properly to maintain alignment with Doors and hardtop.
If you have the hardtop keep it bolted on to help with alignment.
It will be like a wet noodle if your damage is excessive and start removing pieces.
Don't take too much apart at once If you can help it.

 

[ricrok]

Mine were completely rotted in places to the point of no repair.
Don't take too much apart at once If you can help it.

Any recommendations for bracing it up while working on it? My thoughts were a 4x4 along the bottom of the body line to make it straight, hold that up with a jack and then do the welding underneath while it's braced up. During all this make sure the doors hang properly and that it doesn't sag when I drop the jack and brace. Right now my hinges seem OK so I think if I can line up the doors and get it firmed up it should be good to go.

 

[blazinzuk]

Look at what the first gen guys do for bracing. The more the better.

I would probably use 12 gauge stuff. But I would add quite a bit to the original boxes.

 

[blazer74]

Keep the top bolted on if you have it, supported every thing you can to keep everything straight.

Some make a brace between the door hinge mounts to the the opposite side to keep the door opening square if you remove the doors.
You can temp weld a brace on.
Check your front body mounts for integrity.

If you plan on replacing your rubber body mount cushions do it first.

 

[ricrok]

If you plan on replacing your rubber body mount cushions do it first.

Good call on that. I was going to replace the bushings with poly ones and ditch the 3" body lift and drop down to the 1" pucks from ORD. I'll do that first and make sure it's all bolted up tight. I don't have a hardtop for it so that's out the window. I like the door bracing idea. I'll definitely do that to get it lined up.

 

[Stomis]

Didnt Paul fit a replacement piece of those out of 2x4 or 2x3 box tube in the k5?