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76 K5: Megasquirt EFI, Electric Fan, and ICON Coilovers
- Thread starter secutright
- Start date
Ah, that's what's happening! That explains it...
Ugh isn't that a true statement..
Depends on how hard you play. My street truck is cheap to maintain (comparatively)...
What's the plan for the new steering schtuff?
What's the plan for the new steering schtuff?
I was debating keeping it a secret just to tease you guys...
But I won't. I know it's way overkill for what I do, but I'm converting to full hydraulic steering. No, I don't have 44's or do real serious rock crawling, but I want to do it for the experience, and because it takes the steering stresses off the frame completely. That will make my rig more survivable in the event of other damage also.
Perfect example is when I tore my track bar off the frame. Would have been feasible to just put 2 heavy duty ratchet straps in an X between the axle and frame and limped back that way, since the lateral relation between axle and frame will no longer matter for steering purposes.
Also completely eliminates the frame rip at the box, allows for more flexibility in the whole system, might even consider going to a triangulated link rather than a track bar, space permitting.
It's still occasionally street driven, if it's more than a 30 minute drive anywhere I'm trailering it, I'm actually shopping for a larger trailer off and on right now.
As far as system set up, I'm looking at a 2.5x8 double ended cylinder, and probably a 7.6 steering valve. That works out to about 3.2 turns lock to lock. Anyone know off hand what the stock system is lock to lock? I aim for a little tiny bit faster than stock. Right now it feels a little sluggish to me, but that could be my huge stock steering wheel...
As far as system set up, I'm looking at a 2.5x8 double ended cylinder, and probably a 7.6 steering valve. That works out to about 3.2 turns lock to lock. Anyone know off hand what the stock system is lock to lock? I aim for a little tiny bit faster than stock. Right now it feels a little sluggish to me, but that could be my huge stock steering wheel...
Stock should be between 4.25 and 3.75 it depends on the box.
Ok, so the next size of box is 6.1/rev, that works out to 4.1 turns lock to lock. I think I'd prefer the little quicker 3.2... Opinions?
My opinion is that it is easier to change the size of the steering wheel (@Deuling style) than it is to redo steering ratios. If the 4.1 doesn't please you, you can grab a smaller wheel to compensate. If the 3.2 doesn't please you, you're kinda hosed.
Are you able to measure your current setup to see what it is? Or is it broken beyond that point?
If it was me I would go quicker( knowing how you drive)
It is together enough to check. I'm just not near my truck today. Another thing I just thought of, I haven't been getting my full steering angle out of my current steering setup, so my steering will seem quicker since I'll be getting my full steering angle for the same number of turns...
Before you go full on hydraulic steer, did you see this?
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/97-king-cab-ds-ton-build-rock-jock-60-and-shaved-14.315459/page-14
Martin
https://ck5.com/forums/threads/97-king-cab-ds-ton-build-rock-jock-60-and-shaved-14.315459/page-14
Martin
I was just checking that post out a day or two ago. Interesting concept, but I'm really looking to eliminate the mechanical linkage completely to the frame. I considered doing something very similar originally, but decided against it in the long run. I could see an issue that if the geometry wasn't perfectly correct that the steering box and hydraulic cylinder would fight each other, and I'm not sure what that would look like... The manual box would definitely just the battle, but that would back feed into the servo, which then moved the cylinder, which pushes the box more...
And all of that too maintain manual steering in the event of a loss of pressure, but full hydraulic steering can be manually steered with similar effort to a linkage system with the loss of the pump, if you get the correct steering box with manual street check valves.
Have you driven anything with full hydraulic steering?
Martin
Martin
I have driven a truck that was in the past, but honestly it wasn't a good representation though, it wasn't very well designed.
I've driven a lot of equipment that is, but I know that also is not a very good representation either.
I've driven a lot of equipment that is, but I know that also is not a very good representation either.
Paging @ktmoutfront
Thanks for dragging me in.
Full hydro is cool for trail work. On road sucks. Put a clutch on the pump so you can turn it off at highway speeds. Still steers, just not twitchy.
I went back to a box and assist. I drive mine frequently into the Rockies. Having a hose go at 55 on a mountain road made me uncomfortable. As I get older, I think of those things.
Keep spare hoses and plenty of fluids with you. Mine never blew a hose, but I have seen some that have. It is always at the worst time.
Full hydro is cool for trail work. On road sucks. Put a clutch on the pump so you can turn it off at highway speeds. Still steers, just not twitchy.
I went back to a box and assist. I drive mine frequently into the Rockies. Having a hose go at 55 on a mountain road made me uncomfortable. As I get older, I think of those things.
Keep spare hoses and plenty of fluids with you. Mine never blew a hose, but I have seen some that have. It is always at the worst time.
Your welcome
@ktmoutfront Thanks for the input! Out of curiosity, what system setup did you have? Cylinder size, valve displacement, and PS pump? Is your front axle locked up? How was the steering effort?
