CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.

76 k5 Wheeler build-GIT ER DONE

Green stickered to avoid smog/insurance. Gotta go turn in my plates and its done. Im about maxed out on space at dads house unless i use parking over at moms so i think im going to wait for the new house to get the trailer. We'll see though :).

edit: I hopped in the 76 today to move it a little left in the driveway and ''fortunate son'' started playin and brought back a whole pile of memories in the beast and i started to take it for a cruise to warm it up and realized it was now legally trapped in the driveway :(. It was financially the best decision to achieve my goals but for a split second i wished like hell i had just made a street legal wheeler.
 
Last edited:
Well the adapter decided to dump a quart of tranny fluid today :doah:. And if im going to drop that then im going to do a 203/205 doubler when i put it back in. Also after having all of the salesman at my store (goodyear tires) unable to confirm the 42x14.5x17 MT/R Kevlar existence in the computer i managed to get a product code for it last week. It list at 562.06 :eek:. Fortunately my cost is only about 460 a tire.

I looked over what i need and how much money im going to get between now and blazerfest and it looks like getting tank trap ready in that time will be unlikely. Really depressing i wont be making my goal of running tank trap at blazerfest but im putting out lots of dollars right now for the boring shet that is required for green stickered rigs(tow rig/trailer). Considering loaning against my own retirement savings and school savings but thats a slippery slope. On the + side theres no interest from borrowing from yourself :haha:
 
Well i spent all day bein bummed out at the thought of not making my goal. In an entire year of work i should be able to make it through the tank trap.

current date 4/19/11

Due date 7/15/11

Total funds earned between now and then + current funds not including savings/credit for tank trap ready build=2900

Im willing to hit up the credit card as long as i can pay it off before its due to avoid the monster interest rates.

This could be easily done but i'd rather not spend money on anything im not going to be able to use for competition use eventually. Obviously i cant do a competition ready build on this budget so im just going to welfare the focking crap out of it.

Things that need to be addressed
Axle swap-150 bucks
1.Install 14BFF rear disc i already have
2.Move spring perches if needed
3.Already have spring plates thanks to Chevysmith :waytogo:
4.Weld front and rear + drive flanges in the front,will be replaced with a spool and arb as soon as possible. Drive flanges arent included in above price.
5.New brake lines and u-joints

Tires+rims-600-1200
Im just going to try and find some cheap stock steel rims.
Not really sure what im going to do for tires, If i get the 42'' MT/R kevlars i want at 460 a piece they will wipe out most my budget. Considering starting out with 37'' kevlars to keep the price down. Not too interested in used tires because i get new tires so cheap i really dont benefit from used tires prices.

Steering-200 bucks if i go the norcal chris way :dunno:.
Full hydro may be out of the budget and i dont want to spend cash on anything else. I may do a cheap norcal chris style x-over. I dont even want to think about turning some big ol tires on stock push pull steering especially in a trail as twisty as tank trap.

Transfercase=1000 bucks
The seal between the adapter and transmission just took a shet. I need to drop it and i'd like to do a 203/205 doubler if i do that. Im going to say 1000 bucks for that on the cheap. No fancy shifters, Single shifter for each will work fine for now.

MISC. 100
-Gas tank guard,Few grade 8 bolts into the frame and a piece of 1/8 in steel and call it good.
-Pull front and rear bumpers and weld some thick ass steel in between the 2 frame rails and add a recovery point to it front and rear

Total cost=2650
total cost w/expenses=2970,Although im sure it will add up to more than that.

I need money to get to blazerfest and pay admissions as well as eat for the days im there. And i can guarantee you that the excess in there will be eatin up by the nickel and dime shet. Not to mention since a trailer isnt in the budget im going to need to get lucky and borrow one from some kind soul or pay uhaul 40 bucks a day for one which will come out to 120. At that budget its doable but i do expect some credit card debt. I think i can keep the credit card under 500 though and pay it off before its due date to avoid interest rates without even dipping into savings.

I think im going to make a run for it and see what happens. If nothing else ill get some good experience under my belt.

Here is my established order of things
1.Axles so i can do steering
2.Steering so i can make sure everything moves right asap
3.Tires/wheels for increased clearance for the rest of the job
4.Transfer case
5.Misc.
 
Last edited:
It's a good thing you've got a plan. $460 per tire seems really high even though that's the discounted price. Since you're only going to use the Blazer off road, why don't you try to find some bias ply Swampers or Pitbulls? Even bias Baja Claws would be cheaper than that as long as you use a 15" wheel, I would think. Those Kevlar MTRs are really expensive.

I can see right now that the style of cross over steering that NorCal Chris came up with will be known as "NorCal steering" or "NorCal Crossover" from now on.
 
It's a good thing you've got a plan. $460 per tire seems really high even though that's the discounted price. Since you're only going to use the Blazer off road, why don't you try to find some bias ply Swampers or Pitbulls? Even bias Baja Claws would be cheaper than that as long as you use a 15" wheel, I would think. Those Kevlar MTRs are really expensive.

I can see right now that the style of cross over steering that NorCal Chris came up with will be known as "NorCal steering" or "NorCal Crossover" from now on.

Looking at used tires right now, If i can get a nice set for 500 bucks or so it wuold be worth it as a starter set. I dont think ill be copying him because i went and looked at it more in depth and i dont have any way of properly bending a tie rod. Maybe just go with full cross over but thats more trail rig than comp rig. Options are running low :doah: .
 
Dont' rule out full hydro. Some guys on this forum have posted their installs and it doesn't look too much more involved than crossover. I can't speak from experience though because I've never looked at one close up. It could be an option for you to look at.
 
Dont' rule out full hydro. Some guys on this forum have posted their installs and it doesn't look too much more involved than crossover. I can't speak from experience though because I've never looked at one close up. It could be an option for you to look at.

I thought there was a cheap way to do it using a orbital out of old hydraulic farm equipment but 4x4 high assured me there wasnt. A whole lot of searching got me a whole lot of vague not so helpful knowledge. Ill change my thread title and see what others say i guess :dunno: . I wouldnt mind spending 600-800 on it, But the 1400 PSC wants is just :eek: .
 
I've heard of guys using orbital valves and pumps that are meant for agricultural applications that are way cheaper and easier to get parts for than a real PSC outfit. Not sure if that's the way to go. I would listen to 4x4 High on this one. He knows what he's talking about when it comes to anything mechanical (or hydraulic, in this case).
 
I've heard of guys using orbital valves and pumps that are meant for agricultural applications that are way cheaper and easier to get parts for than a real PSC outfit. Not sure if that's the way to go. I would listen to 4x4 High on this one. He knows what he's talking about when it comes to anything mechanical (or hydraulic, in this case).

I may just save up for the PSC set up since eventually i would like to use this competitively and hydro steering may not be the place to ghetto fab. As of now push/pull it is. But i change plans by the minute so who knows what will end up going in
 
I think you need to cool your jets man. 2900 is a great budget but don't get caught up in all the latest and greatest crap or you'll blow it and have a rig that has cool parts and isn't capable.

Engine/Trans/Tcase
If the motor/trans are good leave them alone... fix the leak and twin stick the 203 and rock it 'til it breaks... a $50 fix at most...


Dana 60
Buy a used xover arm and make your own drag link ( I have an arm for sale for $75, if your interested) Or buy one from ORD or somewhere like that I would bet you could do it for $125

Don't weld the front, without at least hydro assist it'll suck. Get a lockright or spartan locker or something like that- It'll cost you $325

Get a beefy diff cover to protect the gears $60 (I like solid diff covers cause they are cheap and alot stronger than stock)


14 Bolt
Weld the 14 bolt up, shave it and grab a steel dif cover $60 + some wire...


Tires
At trailworthyfab.com you can get get a Recentered 8 bolt H1s with rockrings, pvc inserts and take of 37's for 290 a corner, Get 5, it'll cost you 1500 and you can air down and don't need to work about loosing a bead. That's the cheapest and most effective beadlock/ plus tire size package you can buy IMO


Add some body protection like bumpers and rocksliders and you'll be set

That puts you a 2120 or so not including the cost of steel to make body protection. With the 780 left buy some steel and make protection and I would look for a 205 to swap in. Twin stick it and you have the best factory t case you can have.

As far as this goes:

... i'd rather not spend money on anything im not going to be able to use for competition use eventually.

You can always sell things as you upgrade, very few guys build the perfect rig the first time around. Wheel for a while and see what you like then tweak and fix from their. It's your rig and your money so build what you want but don't get caught up in the high dollar bling rock crawler stuff. make your blazer as indestructible as you can and then beat the **** out it and fix everything that you break better and stronger.

Good luck buddy, I'm looking forward to seeing it unfold :thumb:
 
Oh and you could probaby sell the Current Kevlars for a bit and use some of that to buy sliders from Kert and/or buy a winch... I think you'll wish you had a winch in certain parts of Moab.
 
I noticed this. :haha:

That's good though. That's how the most creative guys out there think.
i'll go with that :D

I think you need to cool your jets man. 2900 is a great budget but don't get caught up in all the latest and greatest crap or you'll blow it and have a rig that has cool parts and isn't capable.

Engine/Trans/Tcase
If the motor/trans are good leave them alone... fix the leak and twin stick the 203 and rock it 'til it breaks... a $50 fix at most...


Dana 60
Buy a used xover arm and make your own drag link ( I have an arm for sale for $75, if your interested) Or buy one from ORD or somewhere like that I would bet you could do it for $125

Don't weld the front, without at least hydro assist it'll suck. Get a lockright or spartan locker or something like that- It'll cost you $325

Get a beefy diff cover to protect the gears $60 (I like solid diff covers cause they are cheap and alot stronger than stock)


14 Bolt
Weld the 14 bolt up, shave it and grab a steel dif cover $60 + some wire...


Tires
At trailworthyfab.com you can get get a Recentered 8 bolt H1s with rockrings, pvc inserts and take of 37's for 290 a corner, Get 5, it'll cost you 1500 and you can air down and don't need to work about loosing a bead. That's the cheapest and most effective beadlock/ plus tire size package you can buy IMO


Add some body protection like bumpers and rocksliders and you'll be set

That puts you a 2120 or so not including the cost of steel to make body protection. With the 780 left buy some steel and make protection and I would look for a 205 to swap in. Twin stick it and you have the best factory t case you can have.

As far as this goes:



You can always sell things as you upgrade, very few guys build the perfect rig the first time around. Wheel for a while and see what you like then tweak and fix from their. It's your rig and your money so build what you want but don't get caught up in the high dollar bling rock crawler stuff. make your blazer as indestructible as you can and then beat the **** out it and fix everything that you break better and stronger.

Good luck buddy, I'm looking forward to seeing it unfold :thumb:
Appreciate the input

Oh and you could probaby sell the Current Kevlars for a bit and use some of that to buy sliders from Kert and/or buy a winch... I think you'll wish you had a winch in certain parts of Moab.
Kevlars are already sold and that money spent on purchasing the tow rig :doah: . Its sitting on some 31'' BFG All terrains that came off a jeep from work.
 
I agree with the above post about buying used tires. Having bought several sets of new swampers I dont think I will ever do it again. Maybe, but there are so many 80% sets out there for way cheaper than new.

Also agree if it's green stickered why buy a radial "dual purpose" tire. Bias TSL or LTB are cheaper and IMO will perform better and if you go used then use the $$ saved and get a groover.

For full Hydro check out Dirtygoats build thread here. He used a forklift Orbital I believe and a single ended ram.

Many things people tell you or you read here are in the street driven "dual duty rig" mindset. Everybody told me my 2" ram would be too slow, but for a trail only truck it doesn't bother me a bit.

Not sure on your whole drivetrain, but a doubler is definitely not required for the tank trap. Gear the axles and get to it :waytogo:
 
Appreciate it guys, I just found a set of 39.5x12.5x17' TSL's over on pirate with 65-70% tread. Hes asking 850 which is obviously not gonna happen but i threw him a offer of 500. That would definitley be a nice temp. fix on my tire budget which could allow me to do more elsewhere.

I didnt crash this morning until about 11 AM since i was so hyper stimulated from a long night of making a budget and researching all my items cost to make sure it was realistic and then as always researching random ideas my mind went off on a tangent to. But i did manage to get a little bit of work done. Pulled the 14BFF out of the mud which at 600 pounds it did fight me good but at 250 and some big ol tire busting muscles i won :).

100_0662.jpg

Got it up on some stands outside, Dont got room in the garage so im playin driveway mechanic for now.

At this point i would like to thank thebeast_88k5, I have been referencing his thread for my 14BFF work and his pictures/descriptions helped a ton. :waytogo:. Also gotta thank dad here, I had never worked on a Full floating axle and i woulda spent alot of time scratching my head without his guidance.


rs.jpg

I used a flathead to get the retaining ring to bend back the tab to release the outer hub nut which i used a flathead and a mallet at a angle to break that loose. Did the same thing to get the inner hub nut. At this point the drum backed right off. I adjusted the star adjuster to loosen up the pads.

100_0663.jpg

Theres the junk

100_0667.jpg

I pulled the Brake shoe spring retaining clips and removed remaining springs with a brake tool. Cut the emergency e-brake cable and im at the backing plate which has bolts stuck. So i used penetrating oil on all 4 bolts on the backing plate and am going to break it loose tomorrow.

100_0665.jpg

This is where it ended for today
 
Contact this guy... He's in your area and may have an orbital that has the right specs... He probably has rams as well...

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/wan/2323242974.html


Try and stick with Char-Lynn, they are a lot easier to research...

I hooked up with a forklift guy like this up here and have gotten steering and propane stuff from him... A buddy picked up a valve for $100 with the steering shaft from my guy...

I installed a PSC kit for a guy and it's the same thing even down to the hoses and fittings as my cheap hydro...



As for tires, go with used ones... You'll save a lot of money... Or look into Interco blems... Still new, but they have a cosmetic blemish and usually run around 3/4 the price...
 
Contact this guy... He's in your area and may have an orbital that has the right specs... He probably has rams as well...

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/eby/wan/2323242974.html


Try and stick with Char-Lynn, they are a lot easier to research...

I hooked up with a forklift guy like this up here and have gotten steering and propane stuff from him... A buddy picked up a valve for $100 with the steering shaft from my guy...

I installed a PSC kit for a guy and it's the same thing even down to the hoses and fittings as my cheap hydro...



As for tires, go with used ones... You'll save a lot of money... Or look into Interco blems... Still new, but they have a cosmetic blemish and usually run around 3/4 the price...

Sounds good, So ill call the guy and just ask him if he has any orbitals with the specs you gave me? Is their any brand/size/model of forklift i should be looking for? Do these things have I.D plates on them to make sure im gettin the right one ooor? Sorry for all the questions, I never would have imagined i'd be talking to guys parting out forklifts :haha: .

New problem guys, I got everything off and went to test fit the disc brake bracket and everything lined up perfectly but the weld on the spindle is stopping the spindle from flush mounting with the disc brake bracket? Do i just tighten down the bolts with that spacing and call it good or do i need spacers ooooor?
100_0669.jpg

100_0671.jpg



100_0669.jpg
 

Latest Posts

Top Bottom