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77 project: Lockers,n other stuff

CShack

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Red Bluff Ca
I have decide to stick with my current running gear 44 up front and GM 12 rear, TH350, I already put a goodwrench longblock in placeof the stock 350, My dad gave me a high stall t. converter which i guess came from a vega, and have the tran. out getting ready to do a stage 2 shift and rebuild kit. I was thinking about getting the hughs kit from kragen on sale at $150. I am new to transfer cases and want to know how to identify them, I had a guy help me a bit who swares he is a mechanic, he told me it was something other than a NP series case, but ?. Also what should i look for in lockers. I pln on doing moderate trail riding. Any other suggestions out there.
 
The stock t-case behind a '77 automatic truck would be an NP203. Pictures are the only way for us to tell exactly what you have.

This is what I would recommend for a rear locker and this is what I would put in the front. I like the Aussie better than any of the other "lunchbox style" lockers but they don't offer them for GM corporate axles (10, 12, 14 bolt).
 
Thanks,
I am taking pictures this weekend. What gear ratios would you run. For all around brutalness.
 
what size tires are you planning on running? Id also stay away from a stall convertor (unless you engine doesnt idle without one) because of unnecessary heat buildup in the trans.
 
I have the same truck , besides the trans and T/C . And
those lockers he recomended are what I have. They work really good. AND those are GREAT prices , at least $30 less than I paid. And I searched for at least a week to find a good price too.
 
I will be running 38's by not sure, i would like to run the widest i can go withou rubbing, and having to cut fender wells, the actual fender/quarter panel will be trimmed but not the inner fender wells. Also if i do use the stall converter and run tranny coolers, would this level out the heat build up. What are the pros and cons to running the stall converter. I am planning on making a trail rig with lots of capabilities the only thing im not going to get too crazy with is rocks, If its part of a trail and doesnt look like alot of time spent in the one area then im going for it. Oh yeah i am taking pics tonight, so i ll have some up soon. Gotta warn you i have parts off right now starting basic stuff but you all know whats going on.
 
38s and lockers and your gonna break stuff. I blew up a 10 bolt with 33s yes 12 bolts are stronger but they arent ironman. And you dont need a highstall convertor. your motor looses steam around 4500rpm and if your stall is over 2500 your wasting your time.
 
would my style of driving, (ease it type) help out when others start to break their ****, and i'm just sitting back double checking all of my moves and going slow. Im NOT building a race truck, so why go fast, although i will add some power. also I dont know enough to argue about the stall converter so ill listen to you guys, should i just stay with the stock one. I am going to stay with all my other running gear atleast for now because its all dirt cheap, well about 200 miles away (city) i live in a town where yards mark up on certain things because those parts are high demand here.
 
38's on 1/2 ton axles and lockers will break axleshafts making a uturn in the mall parking lot.
 
Simply saying "high stall converter" doesn't really give us much informaton. Is it simply higher stall than stock, or really high like meant for drag racing? A mild motor, high gears (lower numerically), and big tires usually don't like high stall converters.

I won't go as far as saying that the stock axles will break in the mall parking lot with 38's, but it is a pretty marginal setup if you are planning on using the truck very hard off road at all. Going the 3/4 ton route (14-bolt full-floater in the rear, and either swapping the front to 8-lug or bolting a complete 8-lug D44 or 10-bolt front) is really easy and cheap to do. The nice thing is you will never have to replace the rear axle again, and lockers and disc brake kits are cheaper and simpler to install. Plus you will already have the 8-lug tire and wheel setup if you ever want to upgrade to a D60 front.

For fender trimming, if you are willing to cut the outer fenders then there is really no reason to not at least trim the lower sections of the inners.
 
One thing to add, if you have an NP203 t-case (full time 4WD) you can't use a mechanical locker in the front.


Well, you physically could I suppose but it will be totally undrivable on the street.
 
I won't go as far as saying that the stock axles will break in the mall parking lot with 38's, but it is a pretty marginal setup if you are planning on using the truck very hard off road at all.

Yes that is an exaggeration... but he does need to wake up to the fact that he will be breaking 1/2 ton axleshafts often with 38's and lockers.

Plus it's not likely the gears will be far behind if he takes the time and expense of regearing properly for the tires (4.88 or 5.13's). But my guess is there will be a short cut and he will be running 38's on what ever gears he has now :doah: If that is the case then it will be a dog without any power anyway so he might get away without breaking anything for a while :haha:

If it were my rig I'd skip the 38's until you have the money to upgrade axles. Sticking with 33-35's for now will make your rig a more capable wheeler and better road manners with stock gears.
 
Plus it's not likely the gears will be far behind if he takes the time and expense of regearing properly for the tires (4.88 or 5.13's). But my guess is there will be a short cut and he will be running 38's on what ever gears he has now :doah: If that is the case then it will be a dog without any power anyway so he might get away without breaking anything for a while :haha:

Don't forget burning up transmissions on top of not having any power.
 
With a TH350... it might last a few months. Good thing it's not a 700R4 or I'd give it a few weeks.
 
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