CK5
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77- stroker engine build
- Thread starter the_mule
- Start date
the_mule
Registered Member
Then
Then after getting to PA, I swear I heard it knocking, so I changed the oil, Engine has approx. 700 miles on it now and its BLACK, drive 40 miles and check the oil and its BLACK.
and it looks like this.
So I decide that it must be eating the bearings. I trailer it back to GA.
Then after getting to PA, I swear I heard it knocking, so I changed the oil, Engine has approx. 700 miles on it now and its BLACK, drive 40 miles and check the oil and its BLACK.
and it looks like this. So I decide that it must be eating the bearings. I trailer it back to GA.
the_mule
Registered Member
and then
And Then.
Tear the motor out.
And apart.
I can't find anything wrong with it. I pull the whole thing apart all the bearings look like they have 700 miles on them, still dull just getting shiny, rods, mains, there could possibly be some from the thrust bearing but crank runout is perfect. The only solution I can come up with is I didn't clean the block enough and there was stuff in the oil passages ( I know a lame reason) but I can't find any issues. I remeasure all the clearances and re-assemble.
For good measure I thought I would also take apart the dash and put in a new wiring harness, gauges and a DIY 4x4 dash. Only to not find any diy 4x4 dashes for sale
But hopefully soon.
And Then.
Tear the motor out.
And apart.
I can't find anything wrong with it. I pull the whole thing apart all the bearings look like they have 700 miles on them, still dull just getting shiny, rods, mains, there could possibly be some from the thrust bearing but crank runout is perfect. The only solution I can come up with is I didn't clean the block enough and there was stuff in the oil passages ( I know a lame reason) but I can't find any issues. I remeasure all the clearances and re-assemble.
For good measure I thought I would also take apart the dash and put in a new wiring harness, gauges and a DIY 4x4 dash. Only to not find any diy 4x4 dashes for sale
But hopefully soon.the_mule
Registered Member
I do also. It's not hard to find it either, there are many places that you can get filled up at. I usually have to instruct them how to do it but they've got it available.
the_mule
Registered Member
Sooooo
Now I've got the motor back together, with a bump to 11:1 CR, and I'm working on the wiring, and a blowproof bell, with new clutch accessories, while waiting for a dash. The other reason (besides wiring) for the dash is the heater vacuum lines never actually moved the heater so fix that and install the duct work, and make the AC work again. Its the wrong time of year but it hasn't been installed because the stock bracket doesn't clear the valve covers, so "fix the glitch" there and get it working.
Now I've got the motor back together, with a bump to 11:1 CR, and I'm working on the wiring, and a blowproof bell, with new clutch accessories, while waiting for a dash. The other reason (besides wiring) for the dash is the heater vacuum lines never actually moved the heater so fix that and install the duct work, and make the AC work again. Its the wrong time of year but it hasn't been installed because the stock bracket doesn't clear the valve covers, so "fix the glitch" there and get it working.
COCHEV
1/2 ton status
WOW, never saw this thread. Cool rig 
the_mule
Registered Member
pictures
Oh right before I left for the drive to PA, I took it for a spin to pick up a full size spare and broke the pinion. So I got to learn how to setup gears and rebuild a 12 bolt rear. I did much lurking here.
And yes that is a famous Gov-Loc
Oh right before I left for the drive to PA, I took it for a spin to pick up a full size spare and broke the pinion. So I got to learn how to setup gears and rebuild a 12 bolt rear. I did much lurking here.
And yes that is a famous Gov-Loc
the_mule
Registered Member
others
Other stuff
Lock Right in Front
Box in Back
With extra sheet metal, filling holes
Without extra sheet metal
Other stuff
Lock Right in Front
Box in Back
With extra sheet metal, filling holes
Without extra sheet metal
y5mgisi
1 ton status
Subscribed!
the_mule
Registered Member
Roof Rack
Roof Rack and Top
Roof Rack and Top
the_mule
Registered Member
Top and Rack
Complete top and Rack
Complete top and Rack
the_mule
Registered Member
thanks
Because its taken 2 years.
But thanks.
The top is sunbrella with boat stainless hardware, the entire edge is rolled twice over a strip of 1 inch webbing with grommets through it. Either half turn or the pop on connectors for boats, depending on the load.
Lights are wired in 5 circuits with marine grade 14/2, Front center, Front corners, Sides, Back. All 20 amp circuits. I installed a sub fuse panel behind the glovebox feeding from the backup battery that only handles the lights.
Rear box is all 3/4 marine plywood with, you guessed it marine epoxy primer to seal it. Keyed, boat deck latches, that catch a 1/2" x 1/2" square tube that runs the whole length. Then it's all siliconed at the bottom to the floor, so it's mostly waterproof. I wouldn't put a computer back there but stuff stays pretty dry.
WOW, never saw this thread. Cool rig
Because its taken 2 years.
But thanks.The top is sunbrella with boat stainless hardware, the entire edge is rolled twice over a strip of 1 inch webbing with grommets through it. Either half turn or the pop on connectors for boats, depending on the load.
Lights are wired in 5 circuits with marine grade 14/2, Front center, Front corners, Sides, Back. All 20 amp circuits. I installed a sub fuse panel behind the glovebox feeding from the backup battery that only handles the lights.
Rear box is all 3/4 marine plywood with, you guessed it marine epoxy primer to seal it. Keyed, boat deck latches, that catch a 1/2" x 1/2" square tube that runs the whole length. Then it's all siliconed at the bottom to the floor, so it's mostly waterproof. I wouldn't put a computer back there but stuff stays pretty dry.
the_mule
Registered Member
yep
I'd like to switch to 14 but I haven't found one at a reasonable price to take this out yet. Almost picked up a CUCV on GL but it wasn't quite low enough to justify it only for the axles and having to drive to KY to pick it up.
The 12 bolt is already back together, and got driven to PA
I'm happy with the seats, except for burning a hole in the passenger side one fixing where the PO had drilled through the pillar to mount some visor BS. I'd like to redo the mounting, now they are just bolted through 2x4 tube, the floor then, 3/16"x 36" flat bar. I'm waiting until I start a cage, then they will mount to it.
I've heard that the propane is hard on valves/ seats, but consider this the test. If they burn up I'll let you know. The heads are pace performance vortec, and were new when the motor was built soooo if they don't last it will be time for something else.
I'd like to switch to 14 but I haven't found one at a reasonable price to take this out yet. Almost picked up a CUCV on GL but it wasn't quite low enough to justify it only for the axles and having to drive to KY to pick it up.
The 12 bolt is already back together, and got driven to PA
I'm happy with the seats, except for burning a hole in the passenger side one fixing where the PO had drilled through the pillar to mount some visor BS. I'd like to redo the mounting, now they are just bolted through 2x4 tube, the floor then, 3/16"x 36" flat bar. I'm waiting until I start a cage, then they will mount to it.
I've heard that the propane is hard on valves/ seats, but consider this the test. If they burn up I'll let you know. The heads are pace performance vortec, and were new when the motor was built soooo if they don't last it will be time for something else.
the_mule
Registered Member
Questions
So is the reason that you don't build a cage out of square or rectangle tube, the strength to weight ratio ?
Obviously tube is strongest because of roundness
I want to whine and cry and not buy a notcher and bender, and I think 1"x2"x3/16" would look cool as a cage, plus easy to work no bending just cutting and welding. What I don't know is does it make enough of a difference that I will have to add so much extra weight to not bother.
So saying I used 1"x2"x3/16" how much weaker is it than say 1.75 .120 mild steel tube ? Comparing the same cage design.
Also does anyone know of a good machine shop in the Augusta, GA area. I have the motor that came out of this truck, I'd like to build it but it needs some machine work.
Thank You.
So is the reason that you don't build a cage out of square or rectangle tube, the strength to weight ratio ?
Obviously tube is strongest because of roundness
I want to whine and cry and not buy a notcher and bender, and I think 1"x2"x3/16" would look cool as a cage, plus easy to work no bending just cutting and welding. What I don't know is does it make enough of a difference that I will have to add so much extra weight to not bother.
So saying I used 1"x2"x3/16" how much weaker is it than say 1.75 .120 mild steel tube ? Comparing the same cage design.
Also does anyone know of a good machine shop in the Augusta, GA area. I have the motor that came out of this truck, I'd like to build it but it needs some machine work.
Thank You.
the_mule
Registered Member
Damn truck, always one more thing
I started the rewiring of the truck and with the dash apart, I was changing the bushings and bolt for the clutch pedal, I came to find out that the clutch pedal mounting tube was destroyed. The bushings are gone and it has been eating the inner tube and the tube that is the top part of the pedal. I cut the tube out and went about finding a clutch pedal, well it turns out clutch pedal setups are fairly rare, so thought about converting it to hydraulic clutch, but I like the mechanical and didn't feel like engineering the hydraulic setup into it. After seeing that I wasn't easily going to get a new clutch pedal, I started looking for the tubes to weld in and replace it. Turns out they are interesting to find. The outer tube ( that is welded to the clutch pedal) is OD .85" ID .675" Wall .175" the tube inside is OD .625" ID .46" Wall .165" and the bolt is a half inch so OD .43" the pedal sits .75" in from one side and the OL of the setup is 2.75".
I ended up not finding the correct tube sizes but I did find some pieces that are close, with some grinder massaging, I'll end up with a bronze inner tube and I made a new tube for the clutch pedal. The assembly is ready to go in. I will post pictures shortly, Because this thread is useless without pictures. haha
I started the rewiring of the truck and with the dash apart, I was changing the bushings and bolt for the clutch pedal, I came to find out that the clutch pedal mounting tube was destroyed. The bushings are gone and it has been eating the inner tube and the tube that is the top part of the pedal. I cut the tube out and went about finding a clutch pedal, well it turns out clutch pedal setups are fairly rare, so thought about converting it to hydraulic clutch, but I like the mechanical and didn't feel like engineering the hydraulic setup into it. After seeing that I wasn't easily going to get a new clutch pedal, I started looking for the tubes to weld in and replace it. Turns out they are interesting to find. The outer tube ( that is welded to the clutch pedal) is OD .85" ID .675" Wall .175" the tube inside is OD .625" ID .46" Wall .165" and the bolt is a half inch so OD .43" the pedal sits .75" in from one side and the OL of the setup is 2.75".
I ended up not finding the correct tube sizes but I did find some pieces that are close, with some grinder massaging, I'll end up with a bronze inner tube and I made a new tube for the clutch pedal. The assembly is ready to go in. I will post pictures shortly, Because this thread is useless without pictures. haha
The hydraulic clutch is sooooooo much better.
Martin
Martin
