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8 bolt H1 ??'s

Copasetic

Copasetic

1/2 ton status
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What do I need to look for if I were to buy a set of these? The set I'm looking at does not come with the runflats but everything else if there. Guy said they may need new o-rings but that's no biggie. Can I run them w/o the runflats or is that something they have to have? They are also 16.5 right? Thanks y'all! :bow:
 
They are 16.5's. They can be run without the runflat inserts but without them they are no longer a beadlock and imo wouldn't be worth it (long term). If you were running them until you could get inserts that would be ok just understand you don't need to air them down.

As for what to look for, I only have limited experience but I would say hardware and o-rings. Make sure all the studs have good threads and actually have nuts. I have heard that some wheels have 5 point nuts that require a special socket but I don't know which ones have them and don't. My 8 bolts have typical 6 point nuts.

McMaster something??? has the o-rings. If you search on Pirate for Hummer wheels you should be able to find a part number pretty easy.
 
They're 16.5's. You can run them without run-flats but the run-flats also cinch down the beads, so you wouldn't have a beadlock then.

Most people trim down the inserts so that they don't rub on the tire when aired down. You can get skeleton style steel inserts from Performance Cryogenics or PVC inserts from Stazworks. There should be another manufacturer of steel inserts on the market within the next couple of months.
 
nvrenuf said:
They are 16.5's. They can be run without the runflat inserts but without them they are no longer a beadlock and imo wouldn't be worth it (long term). If you were running them until you could get inserts that would be ok just understand you don't need to air them down.

As for what to look for, I only have limited experience but I would say hardware and o-rings. Make sure all the studs have good threads and actually have nuts. I have heard that some wheels have 5 point nuts that require a special socket but I don't know which ones have them and don't. My 8 bolts have typical 6 point nuts.

McMaster something??? has the o-rings. If you search on Pirate for Hummer wheels you should be able to find a part number pretty easy.
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Thanks John! I'll be sure to look them over real good when/if the guy gets back with me. I remember seeing some new o-rings on ebay for something like $25 for a set so that shouldn't be a big deal.
Are the mag runflts the only kind that are able to be ran in those wheels? I've heard about people cutting them down and it being a PITA. What's up with cutting them down?
 
Search PBB and find the Mc-Master p/n. They're WAY cheaper than the guy on e-bay was selling them for.
 
Cutting them down was not bad at all. It looks a little intimidating because all the ribbing on the runflat seems like it would be a PITA to cut. I cut mine with a sawzall using a wood cutting blade, went through them like butter. Once cut down I used a flapper type sanding disc on a 4.5" grinder to clean up the sharp edges.

For me the easiest method of cutting was to put a wheel shell on a 5 gal bucket and then lay the assembled runflat on it. I used a hole saw to make an opening for a starting point for the sawzall. My wife rotated the runflat while I cut, took about 20 minutes to cut 5 wheels.
 
nvrenuf said:
Cutting them down was not bad at all. It looks a little intimidating because all the ribbing on the runflat seems like it would be a PITA to cut. I cut mine with a sawzall using a wood cutting blade, went through them like butter. Once cut down I used a flapper type sanding disc on a 4.5" grinder to clean up the sharp edges.

For me the easiest method of cutting was to put a wheel shell on a 5 gal bucket and then lay the assembled runflat on it. I used a hole saw to make an opening for a starting point for the saw. My wife rotated the runflat while I cut, took about 20 minutes to cut 5 wheels.
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Good tip, thanks!
 
Did anyone ever decide whether they were the 7's or the 8's? I've gotta start getting stuff together for my wheels pretty quick here.
 
The Perf Cryo guy says the 2-458 are the ones to use.
 
ive got a bunch of extra o-rings man, pm me if your interested (it was cheaper to buy 20 than to buy 5)
 
:haha:I meant the o-ring p/n. One ends with 7 and the other with 8, nobody could quite decide which one was the right one. As for the width, IIRC they're 8.25ish.
 
Thanks a lot for all the good info guys! I've already lined up my o-rings from MuddyBuddy :bow: and already checking into getting them re centered. Has anybody thought about getting theirs powder coated?
 
ive got the 12b h1's and those use the 457's. according to http://www.pirate4x4.com/articles/tech/billavista/PR-Hummer_Rims the 8bolt h1's use the 458's so it all depends on which rims ur running.

of course i bought the 458's first and tried using them on the 12b ones and they were too big, but the 457's fit great

i got mine all sandblasted and primered, i was going to get the powder coated but the total cost ended up being more than i could afford at the time. i spray painted them a glossy black and i think they look really good (the primer was sprayed on with a gun and had extensive prep work) i went with the spray can because of ease of touch ups. i woulda been mad if i had dished out the money for the powdercoating and then got them all scratched up
 
I've been doing a lot of homework on these and been reading today that the 8 bolts are for bias ply tires and the 12 bolts are for radials. Are they not interchangable? What eould really happen if I tried to put a radial on an 8 bolt H1? Man this is starting to be a headache, lol. :doah:
 
**For what we are doing** either type of tire will work on either wheel. The bias / radial spec is an OE thing, just like Chevy says your truck shouldn't have 12" springs. :wink1:

From what I gather the only real difference is in the tires, some have thicker beads than others making it difficult to assemble the wheels and/or prevent o-ring leakage from lack of compression. For instance, when I mounted my LTB's I had to silicone the o-rings on 2 of the wheels to stop them from leaking.
 
nvrenuf said:
**For what we are doing** either type of tire will work on either wheel. The bias / radial spec is an OE thing, just like Chevy says your truck shouldn't have 12" springs. :wink1:

From what I gather the only real difference is in the tires, some have thicker beads than others making it difficult to assemble the wheels and/or prevent o-ring leakage from lack of compression. For instance, when I mounted my LTB's I had to silicone the o-rings on 2 of the wheels to stop them from leaking.
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Gotcha! :waytogo:
 
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