I love the fender mod. I bet you could make a little $$ selling those.
CK5
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8 Low
- Thread starter nedceifus
- Start date
Picked up my 205. It's got a fresh rebuild. Fresh as in rebuilt & sat in a corner for 10 years. Also found a 14bolt with a Detroit & 4:56's. Going to sell the 14bolt I just drug home & tore down & buy the one with the locker. I'm guessing that with the 203/205 combo I can live with 4:56's. The only thing I got done over Christmas was to paint my brake conversion brackets & spring plates.
If a guy could have them stamped out that way I'm sure he could sell a few. The time it takes to fab them that way would make it cost prohibitive. I recon after a few sets & may be a jig you could whip them out in decent time...
Tacked on the top plate of my SuperDuty shock tower brace. I did not get the right material to make the side peices yet. Also tacked on the tabs on the axle. I left the original shock mounts on the axle. Gave me a nice flat surface to put my new tabs. Some time when I have better access I'll give them some shape. Pretty happy with the location of everything & think tieing into the motor mount bolts will really stiffen up the shock towers. The shocks have quite a bit of leverage up that high above the frame.
If you read my tech article here in the tech section, you will see I built my first set of shock towers basically just like your SD brackets look. I ended up with a cracked frame. I remade them with "C" shape so there was a flange to bolt them to the frame flanges as well as the face of the frame. On the crew cab, I have a bar going across between the tops of the shock hoops.
Looked but have not found that wright up. Shoot me a link if you will. I was laying under this thing at the end of the night & the SD shock towers are flush with the bottom of the frame. It would be easy to add another plate to the bottom & be tied in on 3 sides. Also thought I could integrate my bump there. I'll keep looking for your towers.
454Sub
5/8 ton status
If they were setup right, as in not being a limiting strap or bump, would the axle really put that much stress on the frame to crack it if it was supporting JUST the shock?
I would lean towards yes as the top mounting point in the shock is probably 8" above the frame. These frames are not that tough. Don't know though so I'll make it as tough as I can within reason. I'd even entertain the idea of a crossover hoop of some kind. What I have in my head would mount in shear with the top shock bolt, make a hoop over to the other top shock bolt. I've also thought tieing into a ORD high clearance crossmember might do the trick. This is not going to be a dune jumper by any means but I do not think any flex in my shock tower is acceptable.
Mine ripped my frame sort of mounted the same way. I had no limiting straps but bump stops attached to the bottem of it.
Was not attached to the engine side of the frame at all though just the wheel side.
Was not attached to the engine side of the frame at all though just the wheel side.
PM'd you the link. This is the best photo of the modified brackets.
I added angle to the top and bottom so the bracket made a "C" shape that matched the profile of the frame. The first brackets lasted about 2yrs before I developed the cracks. The ones above were still working fine after 4yrs when I scrapped the K5. A buddy of mine has since installed the brackets in his K5.
I had 15" travel shocks that were no where near full compression or extension. It's a leverage and repetition thing. If you think about it the shocks are almost always moving especially on the trail. Plus when you have a good set of shocks that function properly you'll find yourself driving a little faster on the trail putting more load on the shocks.
PM'd you the link. This is the best photo of the modified brackets.
I added angle to the top and bottom so the bracket made a "C" shape that matched the profile of the frame. The first brackets lasted about 2yrs before I developed the cracks. The ones above were still working fine after 4yrs when I scrapped the K5. A buddy of mine has since installed the brackets in his K5.
I had 15" travel shocks that were no where near full compression or extension. It's a leverage and repetition thing. If you think about it the shocks are almost always moving especially on the trail. Plus when you have a good set of shocks that function properly you'll find yourself driving a little faster on the trail putting more load on the shocks.
Yup, that looks good! Good read also! Really wish I had went with a mono tube but I'll see how the whities work for meow. Still bouncing around ideas to keep my 14's straight up in the rear with the 3rd row seat intact but I think I have something figured out.
Third time is a charm
I knew the rearend was going to be narrower. I was not sure how much narrower. I have 2" wheel spacers & it's still too narrow in the rear. I'm thinking I'll convert the front to a single wheel hub & loose the H1's. Eventually.
H 1's have a ton of backspace
Yea I would have never used them except for I started with a pair of dually axles. When I went to replace the Dana 80 I should have just looked for another dually Dana80. Or just used it till it died. No worries. I'll make this work
Looks dumb. I did not have the right straps for the yolk on my new 14bolt. I was really desperate to get this moved out of my shed so I can work on some other stuff. I "rigged" some straps, they worked to get it out. Problem was I decided they were working so well I might as well go for a cruise. About 1/4 mile from my house on the way home the "rigged" straps let go of my driveshaft. I got to practice my trail fix skills. Walking down the gravel road gathering my driveshaft, the cups off the u joint & as many needle bearings as I could find. Anyway, 1/2 hour & a couple washers later I got her home.
I know that pain, like the build I'll be following along!
