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8 Lug 10 bolt front rotor source?

eodcoduto

eodcoduto

We could have been closer.
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I feel stupid for asking this but where do you guys get your rotors for a 3/4 ton 10 bolt? I went into Oreillys the other day and the set with hubs and rotors were around $150 each, and they are $200 each on Rock Auto. Is it worth getting just the rotors and pressing the studs out and back in or am I missing another option?
 
I have no personal experience, but a lot of Amazon reviews say that machining is poor on the new hubs and sometimes you can't get the locking hub guts to go in correctly. You should be able to score a name brand rotor for about $50.
 
If you have the space and live near enough to Harbor Freight, go buy a cheap press. Even if space is limited, you can dismantle the press when you are done. When I did this a year or so back, it was cheaper to buy a press and two rotors than to buy two new complete hubs.
 
cheavyk10 said:
I don't have a press so I use a brass drift and a mini Sledge. Definitely extra effort but kinda fun!
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I always hit back of studs with sledge couple times, then put washers/spacer on the threads (so that you dont run out of threads)and use battery impact to thread on open ended lug nut to pull studs through. Works like a charm
 
I'll get good rotor and true them on the lathe once they are pinned back on. A press is needed too, so it time to spend some allowance money.
 
Also, when it’s time to retorque/check the studs after driving for twenty miles or so be sure to get the wheels off the ground while checking the torque to eliminate any potential resistance.
 
Chickntrk said:
I’ve never used a press on studs/rotors or drums….just a hammer and a punch
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I’ve done either way several times and in the end all is equal as long as the stud is seated properly - although one of the methods leaves your swing’n arm tired and feel’n like you were twelve years old again and just found a stack of Playboys!
 
Not sure if anyone has ever done the research but my concern with washers and an impact wrench is that you'll stretch the bolt or the threads to some extent. I've done it before but some part of me always felt like that is the wrong way to do it and shortcuts always lead to problems later on.
 
Polymath said:
Not sure if anyone has ever done the research but my concern with washers and an impact wrench is that you'll stretch the bolt or the threads to some extent. I've done it before but some part of me always felt like that is the wrong way to do it and shortcuts always lead to problems later on.
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So true - if someone just hammers away with a stout gun without regard to when the stud was fully seated it could cause some unnecessary stretch and component warping.
It can be done successfully but caution would be wise using this method.
 
eodcoduto said:
Well I might get sexy then and get some drilled and slotted.
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I wouldn't waste your money on those. You will never heat up the brakes on a squarebody 4x4 enough for them to be useful. You will be reducing your contact area making the brakes slightly less effective.

High performance race cars make that trade for the increase in cooling so the brakes don't fade from heat during heavy use on a track. However, they are also typically using much larger rotors to increase the braking power overall.
 
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I picked up these rotors and calipers from summit racing a few years back, I noticed a huge improvement in braking and they look cool lol
 
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