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8 lug to 6 lug adapters

In my case, if I kept the semi floater rear, I'd just need to get the center part of the axle shaft turned down, and if that adapter is thick enough, I might not even have to worry about that.
 
Why couldn't you have made that 1 year ago? /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif /forums/images/graemlins/cool.gifSo I think that everyone is dying to know how much? /forums/images/graemlins/thumb.gif /forums/images/graemlins/ears.gif
 
someone should make a steel wheel with bolth bolth paterns on them and a center cap that covers the lugs.6 lug front, 8 lug rear, one spare. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
if you had a rim with both lug pattern two of the holes would hit, this ring uses 6 of the 8 lug bolts and all 6 of the 6 lug bolts.. /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
Question. Are those thick enough to cause the rear tires to stick out beyond the wells? Or is there some piece on the 14FF that is removed and replaced? Those look great. I am seriuosly thinkin....

mike
 
The spacing would be out 1" from stock with alum rings, thinking or doing them in steel also and they would be 5/8" out, the 14FF in narrower then the front axle so this off set should work...
 
Yeah I know, but that costs real money. Adapters would make it easy.

But now that I think of it, now that I'm all 8 lug and on 15x10 wheels...I would never go back.
 
I'm a little slow this week /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif The reason we have to turn down the hub is so the Center of the wheel will fit on the axle right? I saw where you turned down the rotor as well I'm guessing thats to help the wheel to fit, If so will running Alum. Wheels make a differnce? Should I go to a steel wheel for more room? Did anyone make a 15in 8lug wheel ?

Eric
 
I'm always looking for that Dana 60, saving up some cash and one day it'll be mine...and when I get to that point I'm looking at the cost of the Dana 60, new rims, remounting the tires and hanging it on the truck. It will happen, just short on cash for now... /forums/images/graemlins/k5.gif
 
Yes they do make 15" 8 lug wheels. Do a search. It takes some grinding to make them fit on the front but they will fit on the rear. As far as aluminum 8 lug 15" wheels, they don't exist because they wouldn't fit no matter how much grinding you did.
 
Yes, you have to turn down the hub for the rim to fit on it. I turned the rotors down cause I'm trying a new set up with disk brakes, I'm using a set of ford calipers with e-brakes on them and needed a rotor that was thin 1.150" and the only one I could find was 12.50" in dia so I turned it down...
 
exactly
adapters = trouble
and ones that require machining your hubs and shafts are no bargain
spend a grand to save a hundred
 
I guess I haven't looked at a lot of 3/4 and 1 ton wheels I was starting to think they were ethier 16" or 16.5"

Eric
 
If I went with a normal 14b disk brake setup would I have to turn that rotor down and what is the size of a that rotor I'm thinking it's like 11" or something..
I guess it's time to start a Search off I go..........

Eric
 
I'm putting disks on my 14FF and using the 6 lug rims. If you have drums on your 14 bolt it will fit inside both the 15"inch 6-lug or the steel 8-lug rim. If you go to a 16" or 16-1/2" rim you will be 8 lug and can put on a disk brake set up. I'm building a set up to keep my 15" alum rim for now and when I ever get the Dana 60 I'll put my tires on 15" steel rims with the 8-lug pattern. I'm doing my disk brake set up to fit inside the 15" dia rim so I won't have to change my rear brakes if I do the change over. The ring allows me to put my 14 bolt on and not have to buy rims for it or change my front spindles to 8 lug so i don't have to carrier 2 spare tires around.
 
84, if I do get a Dana 60 on the front I know I ether have to build my own caliper brackets or grind the caliper itself to fit in the 15"steel rim, I read the write up on the CK5 main page on grinding them down, and I can make new parts so I wouldn't have to grind them, I'll tackle that when I get ot it....
 
Tony
From what I've seen in your pics and such everything is very cool and looks to be top notch work.

As to why I'm looking into this setup of yours is my 12b has gone south and to replace the ARB and the 4.56's will cost a little to much I found a 14b for 500 with the 4.56's and a Detroit, What I'm think of doing is put my spare 12b in till I can build a 14b right the first time ( yea right) I can do the disk brake setup and a Anti wrap bar maybe a truss.
I have a d44 in the front with a ARB as well so I don't want to get rid of it just yet and I have some nice wheels I have thought about going to a steel wheel cause of the Mag Chloride that the state of Colo put on the road eats the hell out of my wheels but my tires have a lot life in them. A TSM kit cost about 300 but I think I could get everything a little cheeper I don't think I need the E-brake with a auto tranny.
I take it your useing the same studs that came with the 6 lug? or did you go bigger?

Eric
 
I'm using the stock studs 7/16" to hold the rims on, I wanted disks on the rear so I'm making them myself.
 

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