Has anyone used an 8 lug to 6 lug spacer conversion? If so which one did you use? Im trying to keep my MT wheels and switch from a 10 bolt to a 14 bolt. The truck will only be used for trail riding nothing strenuous.
CK5
Register an account today to become a member! Once signed in, you'll be able to participate on this site by adding your own topics and posts, as well as connect with other members.
8 lug to 6 lug
- Thread starter CWL83K5
- Start date
I bet someone has somewhere. Not sure if they survived to tell the tale or not.
It is more expensive but the better option is to just put 6 lug hubs on the 14 bolt.
It is more expensive but the better option is to just put 6 lug hubs on the 14 bolt.
Don’t do it… ask me how I know 
Why?
I assume you have a 9.5" semi-floating 14-bolt? 'Cause with a 10.5" full-floating 14-bolt, you wouldn't be able to fit the 6-lug wheel over the full-floating hub.
Assuming you have a 9.5" axle, find a set of 6-lug hubs & shafts and skip the spacers .
on a budget cant afford new rims would like to keep current wheels 10 bolt did not hold up i backed it out of the garage and blew the spider gears but I'm thinking it was the outer wheel bearing that played a role in it because they were non existent when i took out the axles on the drivers side
Draw a picture of it. Basically some of the holes have to overlap with each other. This is why spacers can work to change the bolt circle, they generally can't change the number.
There have been some custom 14BFF hubs machined to get 6 lug. I can't remember if there's a stock rotor that works or if that has to be customized as well.
Stock 15” wheels from the 10 bolt might have a clearance issue to the brake drum depending on which size it is. Even with some adapter/spacer on it.
The right way to do it is to put the correct 8 lug wheel on it. With the understanding you’ll have to convert the front axle to 8 lug with new rotors for extra dough.
You are going to have some kind of crazy Chineseium adapter that’s going to be the weak link even on mild trail riding. In my mind (and I’m a cheap sob) the cost savings vs doing it the right way does not outweigh the safety factor loss by running an adapter.
Here’s an alternative plan, though the op may not want to look at it this way:
Figure out the true cost in parts to put in the 14bolt. Including moving spring pads and shock mounts if it’s from a 1-ton. Add in the cost of new wheels and possibly tires because you might have to jump to 16” wheels for brake clearance. Figure cost of 8lug rotors up front.
Then look at the cost to fix the 10 bolt and run what you have.
Go where your budget dictates. Chances are buying a new set of spider gears, axle shaft and some bearings is going to be cheaper than a 14b swap. This is the way to go if you don’t want to take the truck out of service for weeks to months while your budget allows for everything you need to do the swap.
Save up and buy parts for the 14b swap over time while still being able to use the truck after fixing the 10 bolt.
The thing I get worried about is getting knee deep into a major swap like that, not having the cash to get all that it needs now and putting the whole thing on pause until I have the money to do it. Weeks turn into months. Months turn to years and the next thing you know you have to move quick and the truck is on jackstands. Food for thought.
The right way to do it is to put the correct 8 lug wheel on it. With the understanding you’ll have to convert the front axle to 8 lug with new rotors for extra dough.
You are going to have some kind of crazy Chineseium adapter that’s going to be the weak link even on mild trail riding. In my mind (and I’m a cheap sob) the cost savings vs doing it the right way does not outweigh the safety factor loss by running an adapter.
Here’s an alternative plan, though the op may not want to look at it this way:
Figure out the true cost in parts to put in the 14bolt. Including moving spring pads and shock mounts if it’s from a 1-ton. Add in the cost of new wheels and possibly tires because you might have to jump to 16” wheels for brake clearance. Figure cost of 8lug rotors up front.
Then look at the cost to fix the 10 bolt and run what you have.
Go where your budget dictates. Chances are buying a new set of spider gears, axle shaft and some bearings is going to be cheaper than a 14b swap. This is the way to go if you don’t want to take the truck out of service for weeks to months while your budget allows for everything you need to do the swap.
Save up and buy parts for the 14b swap over time while still being able to use the truck after fixing the 10 bolt.
The thing I get worried about is getting knee deep into a major swap like that, not having the cash to get all that it needs now and putting the whole thing on pause until I have the money to do it. Weeks turn into months. Months turn to years and the next thing you know you have to move quick and the truck is on jackstands. Food for thought.
i appreciate your feed back. Ultimately at the end of the day I guess i should have just asked if i rebuild the 10 bolt and honestly do light trail riding, will the 10 bolt hold up with 38.5" tire set up? My plan is the truck will never see mud again after i bought it cause ive been there and done that and the mud just gets into places you thought you never could and ruin things so again my plan is to just trial ride at a local park and park on the river beach front and enjoy
38’s may push the 10 bolt more than smaller tire, but if it’s not running a locker, stockish engine and it’s mild use it might survive.
If 38’s are part of the long term plan and your engine makes more power than stock I’d still save up for the 14b full floater for the peace of mind it provides.
If 38’s are part of the long term plan and your engine makes more power than stock I’d still save up for the 14b full floater for the peace of mind it provides.
i appreciate the feed back. being a novice at all this there is a lot to learn
Couple of comments. Those adapters will be minimum 2 inches and will be 2 piece adaptors. They can be used safely. Need to check them often. Like monthly.
You need to make sure they will fit over the hub if it’s a 14 bolt full float.
15” rims don’t interfere with the brakes on a ff 14 bolt. Especially with a 2” spacer.
Now questions. Do you already have the axle?
Have you considered a 6lug semi float 14 bolt ( this requires welding but very simple)?
You need to make sure they will fit over the hub if it’s a 14 bolt full float.
15” rims don’t interfere with the brakes on a ff 14 bolt. Especially with a 2” spacer.
Now questions. Do you already have the axle?
Have you considered a 6lug semi float 14 bolt ( this requires welding but very simple)?
No i have NOTHING as of yet just now in the search phase. Didnt know they made a 14 bolt with 6 lug either. the blazer current came with 2" spacers on the rear already i guess the last guy wanted to get a wider stance im assuming
Aahhhhhh. Ok so since you have nothing, the gmt400 88-98 body style truck came with a 14 bolt 9.5 semi float 6 lug axle. It is pretty easy to find here and a weekend swap with welding involved.
Just save yourself the hassle of all the other bs and stay 6 lug and still wheel with this axle.
If it were me, I'd fix your 10 bolt and build this axle in my spare time.
6 lug 14 bolt ff hubs are available and somewhat inexpensive but the collateral damage costs add up quick.
Just save yourself the hassle of all the other bs and stay 6 lug and still wheel with this axle.
If it were me, I'd fix your 10 bolt and build this axle in my spare time.
6 lug 14 bolt ff hubs are available and somewhat inexpensive but the collateral damage costs add up quick.
note taken i will look that up thanks again!!
14 bolt semi float sounds like your best answer. Remember try to match ratios to save costs. The SF 14 bolt came in a variety of gearing options.
On my son's 427 powered 74 SW 4x4 we just built a 14B FF with disc brakes and 6 lug axles.
Little machine work to fit over the hubs ,drilled out the rotors to accept the larger wheel studs . Not sure what the big deal is doing the conversion,just source the parts ,do the fitting and assemble.
Little machine work to fit over the hubs ,drilled out the rotors to accept the larger wheel studs . Not sure what the big deal is doing the conversion,just source the parts ,do the fitting and assemble.
Latest Posts
-
-
-
Crews and worthy rigs Around the country- Latest: fourwheelerjeff
-
